Breathing tips?

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The reason I mention the SAC check is so you can see if you're burning a lot of air adjusting your buoyancy or if you truely are an air hog.

This doesn't actually follow. Sitting quietly and doing nothing, you are definitely going to use less gas than you will when moving at all, and unless you spend your entire dive hovering in one place, you are going to be moving.

The bottom line, nannymouse, is efficiency. CO2 production is what determines how much you need to breathe, and the more oxygen you burn, the more CO2 you make. You burn oxygen using muscles, so the less you can DO underwater, the longer your gas will last.

You do less by becoming efficient. That includes streamlining gear, as has already been mentioned. But probably the biggest step toward efficiency is learning to dive in a horizontal position. Why? Because if you are tilted 45 degrees head-up, every time you kick, you're driving yourself upwards. In order not to ascend, you must dive not in neutral buoyancy, but in negative buoyancy, so your tendency to sink counteracts the upward drive from your fins. Now you can see it -- you're wasting half the energy you're putting into kicking to achieve no net propulsion at all!

Getting into a horizontal position is easy, if your gear and weights are properly distributed. Unfortunately, for a lot of people (and especially in cold water) putting all their required weight in the pouches of a weight-integrated BC, or on a weight belt, will almost obligate them to dive in a head-up position. Moving weight up onto your back, either into trim pockets in BCs that have them, or by attaching weights or weight pouches to the cambands of your BC, will make a horizontal position effortless. That is the beginning of efficient diving and better gas consumption.
 
Like Pete said, have you done a good weight check, is very important. Too much weight make your body go off kilter, especially if you have a BC that doesn't center the air over your weight.

Imagine the typical position of a new diver, at a 45 degree angle, with air pulling your shoulder up, and the weight on your hip pulling you down. Even if you were in good shape, that profile will require 3 times as much energy as a horizontal profile.

Then, if you had a good weight check with wet doved gear, and neutral buoyancy at the surface, you might find that the next time you dive with dry gear, it might be difficult to descend unless you totally empty out your BC, exhale completely, and still have to do a head first descent with your fin kicking.... That would be normal.... As your gears get wet, and all the bubbles comes out.... It will be easier with the next dive.

Experienced diver might distribute more weight up in the trunk and torso, to achieve this horizontal balance. They call it "trim". That's why some use metal back plate (up to 8 lbs or more), some will clip weight to their tank strap, some will put weight into special pockets on their BC back, or some will clip weight to their D rings. All of this is to achieve a small profile, and will greatly decrease your air consumption.
 
OOPs, TSM said almost exactly what I did.... It really wasn't plagiarism.... I just didn't read her post.
 
Cold water --> thick wetsuit (or dry suit) --> more weight required to counteract the added displacement of the thicker suit --> more weight on belt --> harder to trim to level position.

(technically, cold water is also more dense, so you'll displace a larger mass of water for the same volume. The effect of this, however, would be extremely small. I'm just being a smart aleck :-p )
 
Besides in and out,
and don't stop.

I appear to be an air hog, and I am still working on Bouyancy.

Any tips on refining technique would be appreciated. -N


early and often.........no wait, that's equalizing--- I get them confused......:D
 

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