Blue Steel Valve question

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fl-diver

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On their website Blue Steel shows 3 valves:
Part Numbers:
10111 2400 psi service pressure 4000 burst

10112 3000 psi service pressure 5000 burst

10120 3442 psi service pressure 5250 burst

I just bought an HP 120 (3442 psi) tank with no valve. I just happen to have a brand new valve model 10112 already. Is there any reason I can't use this valve with my HP tank?
I know the "official" answer but I also know that many people use valve model 10111 LP and fill to 3800 psi.

I dive DIN so I will be pulling the plug and using DIN connection either way.

Thanks.
 
It is a lower rated burst disk so you will blow a few psi earlier - go for it. Unless you are anal or have an OCD :D.
 
Last edited:
Yeah, no problem using it. You can always have a 3500 psi burst disk installed instead, I'm pretty sure the valves themselves are identical.

Tom
 
Blue steel valves,
The valve is the same in all 3 part numbers, the only thing that changes is the burst disc. You can purchase a burst disc that has a rating of 5250 psi from your lds or buy one on line for about $7.00 ea.. The disc you have is for 3,000 psig service, and your cylinder is rated to 3442 psig.
The valve will work fine , but you may also blow a disc and loose your gas.

Jim Breslin
 
I suggest you get rid of the Blue Steel valve if you want to use it for DIN. Those provalves only have about six threads in them when you remove the insert. Your reg won't even go in half way. I swapped out those same valves off of my HP100s for some Dive Rite 300BAR DINs. The Blue Steel valves also have a really poor-quality chrome finish on them that chips easily. The threads are really rough and may end up killing the threads on your reg.

The problem I see with filling 3442 psi with a 3000 psi rated valve is that the burst disk (even rated at 5000 psi) will eventually wear out and CAN burst at 3000 after a while. A "beefier" disk will last longer being used at higher pressure. The whole issue with safety in a burst disk is on the FSO who fills your cylinder. And anyone who fills your cylinder enough to blow a disk should not be an FSO.
 
I suggest you get rid of the Blue Steel valve if you want to use it for DIN. Those provalves only have about six threads in them when you remove the insert. Your reg won't even go in half way. .


hmmm.... I've got the Blue Steel valves, and although I'm not a huge fan of them, I can get a DIN fitting on a regulator more than halfway in.
 
If the reg has a HP din connection, then it only has 7 threads to begin with. A LP din connection has only 5. The provalve itself (saying this without reference to any brand) can accept any Din regulator, HP or LP, the only difference is the the HP din reg will stick out slightly longer than a LP reg. I do not know off hand how many threads are in a provalve (once again see above) but as long as it threads until the o-ring seats, then it should be fine for use (also assuming all threads are in good usable condition).


AS for the valve on tank thing, if the tank is a 3/4 thread, then a 3/4 valve will work fine with or without the proper tank pressure rated burst disk (ie: 3442 service pressure tank requires a 3442 service pressure burst disk). TECHNICALLY you COULD get away with using a burst disk rated for a lesser service pressure, HOWEVER ANYONE who would be filling the tank would need to be aware of that so they do not fill over the disks rated service pressure (ie: a 2250 service pressure burst disk in a 3442 service pressure tank would mean the tanks max pressure would be 2250). Now comes the question however, will the facility filling the tank accept that? Personally, if it is a 3442 tank, then I would get the 3442 burst disk. 1) shops do not ask about the burst disk so no needing to remember to tell them to fill less, possibly causing problems. 2) more air for your money which equals more bottom time:) and 3) If you are getting fills at 3000 on a 3442 tank, than after about 7 fills, you could have had a free tank of air.

What I would suggest is to go to your LDS, and ask them to install a 3442 burst disk. They are relatively cheap, and compared to online ones, you get it then, and they can install it for you while you are there.

Best of luck with everything,

Paint
 
I suggest you get rid of the Blue Steel valve if you want to use it for DIN. Those provalves only have about six threads in them when you remove the insert. Your reg won't even go in half way. I swapped out those same valves off of my HP100s for some Dive Rite 300BAR DINs. The Blue Steel valves also have a really poor-quality chrome finish on them that chips easily. The threads are really rough and may end up killing the threads on your reg.

The problem I see with filling 3442 psi with a 3000 psi rated valve is that the burst disk (even rated at 5000 psi) will eventually wear out and CAN burst at 3000 after a while. A "beefier" disk will last longer being used at higher pressure. The whole issue with safety in a burst disk is on the FSO who fills your cylinder. And anyone who fills your cylinder enough to blow a disk should not be an FSO.

Much of the above is malarky.

Here is a good discussion of 200 bar and 300 bar valves:

Valves, Regulator Fittings, Cylinder Neck Openings -- More than you wanted to know
 
Thanks for all of the input. The current burst disk on the vavle I have is already 5000 the "HP" burst disk is 5250. I think it should work fine. I'm headed to the shop for a VIP and fill today.
 
I suggest you get rid of the Blue Steel valve if you want to use it for DIN. Those provalves only have about six threads in them when you remove the insert. Your reg won't even go in half way.

I have Blue Steel 200bar DIN valves on my doubles and they work fine.
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/teric/

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