Blue Hole and Caye Caulker Report

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Redondoscubadude

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Location
Redondo Beach, CA
# of dives
200 - 499
The followng is an excerpt from my blog on 6/23 dive I did with Frenchie's in Caye Caulker. I'm currently sailing with my wife and father-in-law from Guatemala to Texas. More pics and entires can be found at Sich Blog

We did two dives on the South pass of the reef about 80 feet max. The dive master was entertaining and they seemed like a good operation so I signed on for a trip to the Blue Hole the next day.

Conditions were a bit rough in the open ocean on the motor over to Lighthouse Reef and the Blue Hole. The boat was covered, had hard fiberglass seats and three 200 HP outboards that can move it at 30 knots (standard Belizean water taxi)

We passed through Turneffe Reef on the Northern end and got a twenty minute reprieve from the pounding. Belize has three of the four Atolls in the western hemisphere. Glovers, Turneffe and Lighthouse. The atolls were formed by coral growing on steep limestone plateaus outside of the barrier reef and enclose a central lagoon. Once you leave the barrier reef the water drops off to a deep blue. The atolls are hard to see until you get very close. We sailed to Glovers last May and enjoyed spectacular diving and snorkeling.

Approaching Lighthouse Reef we could see breaking waves. Once inside the swell calmed down and the captain pushed to full throttle clearing the intricate coral maze by what seemed like inches and headed for the Blue Hole.The Blue Hole is not readily apparent from the surface but once we tied up to the mooring I went on top of the boat and could easily make out the dark blue center framed by shalllow ring of white sand and coral and a aquamarine colored water beyond. Wow! Time to suit up and splash like my man Jacques Cousteau.

Our group entered the water and swam out 20 yards to a sandy ledge. We dropped 50 feet down to the ledge and continued down as fast as we could equalize our ears. Massive limestone caverns start at 100 feet. We leveled off at 130 feet and entered the caverns swimming around huge stalactites. The bottom of the cavern was 165 feet and then drops off to over 450 feet in the center. I went down to around 140 feet before redlining the gauge I borrowed from Cpt. Jim. My crazy dive master came grabbed my fin and did some wacky underwater Belizean goblin laugh and then smacked my hand congratulating me on making it down to the famous site. I almost thought he was narced as he did some Kung ** fighting moves with his other dive master and pretended to want to drop down in the center. Our 8 minutes at depth ended quickly and we made our way up slowly as reef sharks and fish swam in from the gloomy depths.

Awesome dive. For the naysayers who call the dive overrated I would say try using some mask defog. Surreal. Other worldly. Glad I got the chance to do it.

The next two dives were off of Half Moon Caye. Many Cayes in Belize have looked like Gilligan’s Island to us but this is the prototype. A beautiful 42 acre palm tree covered crescent shape island fringed by white sand beaches with spectacular white sand beaches bands of coral and aquamarine and blue water.
 
"Awesome dive. For the naysayers who call the dive overrated I would say try using some mask defog."
Redondo dude I'm going to use that line if you don't mind . Your right on.

Sure NP:)
 
Hi Redondoscubadude -

My wife and I happened to be on the same trip with you out of Frenchie's that morning. I'll add a few thoughts / memories from that day.

The seas were indeed a bit rough, at least rough enough to be a pain in the ass, literally -- not a complaint about making the trip, but instead, a recollection of a sore rump despite sitting on a wetsuit and/or towel for much of the 2 hour trip (and standing for a fair bit).

We got out to the blue hole about 9:00 and tied alongside another dive boat that had just tied up to the mooring a moment before us. Our group of 10 divers + 2 (or 3?) DMs and a videographer who was pithcing his services to Frenchie's got in the water pretty quickly (there were also 4 snorklers with a DM supervising them). While I waited on the surface for the rest of the group to get in and prepare to descend, someone pointed out that we could clearly see several reef sharks swimming lazily below at +/- 40 fsw.

I dropped as quickly as I could to 135 fsw after the brief stop at the sandy ledge; there was one diver whose bc / tank came loose around his waist somehow well before we reached depth, but the DMs were on him and secured his gear pretty quickly. I completely share your impressions of Blue Hole: "Surreal. Other worldly. Glad I got the chance to do it." It's not a reef dive with teeming marine-life and bright colors (it's 135 ft down!) but it was an amazing dive unlike any other I've done and I'm super glad I did it this time (I'd been to Belize once before but hadn't made the trip to the Blue Hole). The slow ascent back to the sandy rim offered a fair bit of time to gaze out into the blue center and watch the reef sharks cruising. I might get to the point where my reaction to the dive itself was "meh" if I'd done it a half dozen times or so, but until that actually happens my impression is still one of respectful admiration.

I'd add a bit more to the next two dives -- I really think they were spectacular dives. The first was a wall dove off Half Moon Caye. I'm told the wall drops to 1000+ feet. Lots to see and a nice lazy dive. After lunch on Half Moon Caye we went to another popular site called "the Aquarium" off Long Caye. You were in the other group (our boat was now in two groups of 5 divers each with a DM) -- our group got lucky and got to see a turtle feeding on something along a drop-off at about 50 fsw, with a gaggle of angelfish and others darting in to grab scraps when possible. C.J., the videographer, got really close to the turtle without startling it in any way; the turtle may have seen its reflection in the camera lens because it spent a few long seconds gazing directly into the lens curiously before tucking back into its snack. Don't know if your group saw the same thing.

The trip back was a bit less bumpy and a bit faster (about 1.75 hours). Again a really great day trip and I was thrilled with the Blue Hole dive despite its short bottom time -- the other two dives might be the main attraction for me if I go again now that I've experienced the BH. I ended up buying a copy of the video on DVD from C.J. -- mostly because I thought our kids would get a kick out of seeing the marine environment and mom and dad right there. It's not ready for the discovery channel or anything, but it's a great vacation memory and I think he did a solid job of editing and putting it all together that evening / next morning after the dive.

I wish we had had a little better weather during our stay -- it was frequently pretty windy and there were occassional thunderstorms (mostly at night) that reduced viz and made it tough to find dive ops heading out to some of the outer atolls. My wife and I had also wanted to dive the Elbow at S. Turneffe but couldn't get a ride out from Caye Caulker during the week or so we were there (reason to go back!). I envy you your long trip north on your father-in-law's sailboat and your dive opportunities at Glover's, etc. -- hope you have a safe and fantastic trip back.
 
Catt99. Great report. Glad you enjoyed the trip. I also have wanted to do Turneffe but it seems the Blue Hole trip is the one that can sell at the dive shops. Next time.

The weather improved for us once we got up past Chinchorro Bank Atoll in Mexico. I've made 5 trips to Belize in the last three years at different times and that's the worst we've seen it. My wife decided offshore sailing isn't for her so we swapped crew and our now in Merida exploring the rest of Mexico.
 
Thanks for the report guys! If all goes well, we will be going to Caye Caulker Next year!
 
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