Blackbird Caye Trip Report May 10-17

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deco_martini

Contributor
Messages
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Location
United States
# of dives
200 - 499
Day1:
We woke up at 4:30, rolled out of bed, and hit the airport (respectively). We pretty much slept the entire flight to Houston. In Houston we hit the international terminal, got some breakfast, and pretty much boarded our flight as we got done eating.

We landed in Belize a few hours later, got off the plane into a very hot and humid enviroment as we hoofed across the tarmac to the airport. The airport is about the size of a junior high school. Outside of customs we were met by someone from our resort who informed us that 2 more people were due shortly on another flight. He then pointed us upstairs to a bar to pass the time. We passed the time sipping the local beer "Belikin" which was crafted by German brewers. This airport lounge is the greasiest bar I have even been in. Which was fine once you got used to the smell.

40 minutes later the resort guy came and got us. We got in his shuttle van with a 60-ish looking couple and headed to Belize municipal airport. Which it turned out was a gravel road along a piece of coast with a bar larger than the "terminal". I've seen backyard toolsheds larger than the terminal in fact. I've seen backyard sheds larger than the airplane we got on (which was cool with us). There were five seats in it, 2 in front, 2 in middle, 1 in back. Mike and I spent the 20 minute flight to Turneffe Atoll using our laps for luggage space. We landed on a very similar dirt and grit "runway" on Blackbird Cay a short time later after flying over cays and mangroves that entire time. The saving grace of the leg of the journey was the view from the puddle jumper. Good times.

We went to the dining hall and filled out some forms and met the heavily medicated resort manager who we later nicknamed "2 sheets". Then they served us lunch. Holy crap. They brought out huge servings of spaghetti with meat sauce with tiny parmesan covered garlic breadstick with some side salad and watermelon slice. The sauce was classic Italian but with a kick of habanero. Not enough to get hot but enough to go "wow, this is effing good". The noodles were almost like Pad Thai noodles. Not just plain round generic spaghetti.

We dutifully found our cabana after that and took naps.

We explored the resort later, took some kayaks out, and met a couple who arrived later. They look to be late forties. Dude has Just-for-Men dyed hair and a solid grey beard. His wife looks like Alannis Morisette in her late forties. They are the only other divers with us at the resort this week.

That evening we had roast beef cutlets with pepper gravy (as in chopped peppers). There were fresh rolls, mashed potatoes, and a filet of grouper covered in dill sauce. For dessert there was this amazing key lime pie. After dinner, we split a real old style sugar cane made Coca-cola that burns the roof of your mouth. Anyone younger than 28 or so probably won't even remember that this was how they made American Coke back before they switched to corn syrup.

We went out the boat dock and there he was, Mr. Meaty. Mr. Meaty is a 6 foot saltwater crocodile who moves from the brackish Mangroves at night to rest beneath the resorts boat dock. We have been assured that there has never been a crocodile attack near the resort (yet*). Later we found out his name was Jack. We kept calling him Mr. Meaty.

Continued in next post....
 
Day 2:
The next morning we rolled out of bed at 7 and had a bacon, eggs, biscuit breakfast with a plain but very tasty muffin. We met on the dock at 8 and were told the boat ride to our first dive site would be 5 minutes so we should get on all our gear. The only other divers on the boat were Just-for-Men and Alannis. We started with a 60 foot dive so the divemaster could check out everyone's skills. 1 minute after getting in the water, Just-for-Men panicked and aborted the dive.

We saw a red-tipped sea goddess Nudibranch, a green sea turtle that looks to be 4 feet wide, and tons of soft corals. As we were hanging out around 15-20 feet at the end of the dive for a safety stop, we had the money moment. A young manta ray about 6 feet across swam in out of the blue and came near us. He swam around us for a bit and then left. Just-for-Men panicked and missed the most magic moment of my diving career.

Between dives we zonked out back in our cabana, then headed out for another dive before lunchtime. On this one we ran into a sand channel between coral reefs that had 4 of the largest southern stingrays I have even seen. Each was somewhere between 4 and 6 feet wide. Lunch back at the resort was baked chicken, rice with beans, and delicious chocolate chip cookies that almost seemed to have some biscuit mix in them for dessert.

That evening we had a night dive where we saw some nice crabs, lobsters, a porcupine fish, the giant turtle from earlier sleeping under a reef, and our new favorite thing: basket stars. If you hold your light still near a basket star, bloodworms will come to your light and get caught in the basket star. Fun. Just-for-Men panicked and aborted the dive, so there were only 4 of us in the water which meant there wasn't too much light.

For dinner we had shrimp curry (real Indian style curry too), pork chop with pepper gravy, cheese and pepper cornbread, some really delicious salad that was mostly finely chopped lettuce with some bacon and some savory dressing, slow cooked potatoes, and for dessert a carrot cake that was caramel glazed instead of cream cheese.

Continued.....
 
Day 3:
More awesome meals and great dives. Just-for-Men skipped the early dive since it was to 100 feet and he was afraid of aborting. We saw a ton of black coral on this dive past 90 feet. This dive was the "checkout" for doing the blue hole the next day.

When we got back to shore, we found out that a relative of Just-for-Men had passed away and that he and his partner were returning home. This meant Martini and Mike would be the only divers at the resort.

Day4: The Blue Hole
We boarded the larger boat today and headed out to the hole. It was about a 40 minute trip from Turneffe Atoll and was very peaceful.

The Blue Hole was a nice dive since I did some spelunking as a younger man. Here's the deal with this dive. The area around the blue hole is about 30-35 feet deep. You go down to 35, the DM does an extra OK check, then you start the descent into the hole. You go down 120 feet into oxygen deficient lifeless water. This isn't an ooh-fishie dive. At 120 feet you see the massive cave formations such as 40 foot stalactites hanging down further into the gloom. Light is in short supply at this point. Your DM takes you under a pocket and you weave through the formations for about 8 minutes. Your depth right before you start your ascent is 130-133 feet.

Now, this is a pretty nice deep dive in one respect. And that is, you can chill at 35 feet for the rest of the dive offgassing. Dive operators have been chumming and throwing food to sharks in this area for years now, so there are resident reef sharks that swarm around you at this point like hobos looking for spare change. In this case they are looking for a free meal. Our DM cardinale took some algae off the reef, purged his second under it, caused the snappers and groupers to have a food response, and drew the sharks over to us and away from those aggressor liveaboard ruffians. We spent a good long while with the sharks swimming close by and then finally made our ascent.

For lunch we had bbq chicken on Half moon caye. "Too Sweet" from the resort can bbq chicken like a champ.

We had 2 more dives in the half moon caye area and saw tarpon, eagle rays, and other nice marine life.

Continued......
 
We spent the rest of the week eating delicious foods and being the only divers at the resort. We saw many eagle rays. There were tons of soft corals on every dive. Hard corals were algae infested. One day we found a large southern stingray whose wings had been eaten by a shark. Great trip and we enjoyed it thoroughly. The only other event of note on this trip was already posted in the accidents forum. Enjoy.

http://www.scubaboard.com/forums/near-misses-lessons-learned/235478-almost-lost.html
 
Great report. No shortage of food for those reef sharks, it appears. Good thing Just for men wasn't around...
 
I used to run Blackbird Caye Resort in the year 2000 and the dives are great out there. I am actually the one who started feeding the salt water crocodile that I named Jack. His mate we named Jill when she started coming around. I stopped feeding them after people got worried that they were going to come up on land and eat them, but they never showed any of those tendencies for the year that I was there. One of the best dives at Turneffe is the elbow usually (depends on the current) and you can generally see large schools of snapper, groupers, jacks, etc. out there. I just dove it a few weeks ago and only saw the snappers, because they were still spawning around the last full moon. Also saw a nice sea turtle. I am now managing Thatch Caye Resort and the wall dives off of the southern barrier reef compare favorably with Turneffe. We also do the elbow at Turneffe from here, as well as the Blue Hole, and Glover's.
 
Thanks, deco,

Do you have any photos of Blackbird Resort and/or your dives? I enjoyed the shark video, but sorry to hear about your "almost lost" long swim home. With 166 acres, Blackbird looks considerably larger than the other resorts in the Turneffe Atoll. Is there a trail through the resort? Sounds as though you ate well. The restaurant looks pleasant, how was your room, bed, and AC? There was a less than glowing review on Trip Advisor from last March in which they claimed the management was going to do "a complete overhaul and closing for 3 months." From the sound of your report, the place was fairly pleasant, did it appear that they had been closed prior to your visit for the "overhaul?"

If I don't do a solo trip to Belize in April, I may go in June with 2 friends, of whom one is a newbie with 6 or 8 dives, all done Sept., 07. What is the diving like for newbies? When just the 2 of you dove, what boat did you use? Shade? it sounds from their website that they do 3 1 tank dives, 2 in the morning and 1 in the afternoon, as well as an occasional night dive, as you mention, is that correct?

Thatch Caye, appreciate your feedback as well, since I am also looking at your resort - I sent an email a couple of days ago, but haven't heard anything back yet. Please feel free to send me a PM.

Thanks, alashas honeymoon2's photos- powered by SmugMug
 
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