Black Photos....

[AndyT]

A room under a normal (tungsten) light is relatively dark to the camera and would probably suffice as a practice simulation.

The SP-350 also has an exposure meter - it will appear on the LCD as a + or - sign followed by a number eg +0.3 . In this case it means that the image will be overexposed by 1/3 of an f-stop. Likewise a - sign shows underexposure. It is a useful tool to use in setting your exposure.

 

[alcina]

Yes, 1/500 would have a significant impact on how dark your photos are.

You might want to contact your dealer to talk about the particular set up you have - maybe there is something tricksy with the synching of your bits.

For practice on land, DON'T worry too much about the actual settings for your aperture and shutter. Do consider your strobe aiming, minimum focus distance and the like.

Underwater for macro you'll likely want to be at f8 for stuff that fills the frame to get the most DOF you can; shutter probably around 1/100ish. You can vary the f stop to control your DOF (like if you want the back of the fish less sharp for instance). I usually have f5.6 ish for my "normal" shooting and go to f8 for really small subjects. The strobe is providing virtually all of the light for this.

 

[Allison Finch]

500 is pretty dang fast. I usually stay in the 100 to 125 range at that f stop for macro unless I want to darken my background. And then, never that fast. Just my experience which is far from the final word.

 

[Warren_L]

It kind of looks to me like the strobes never really fired for the shot (or fired but did not sync properly). There are a few things to consider.

As mentioned, 1/500th is pretty fast - I wonder if the strobe could sync with that shutter speed with your camera. Definitely try slowing the shutter speed. I don't see any real need to go that fast on the shutter.

Pre-flash, also mentioned already, could cause the strobe to fire early. That could be an issue.

One other circumstance where I've noted improper syncing of my Ike strobes (I use a pair of DS-125s instead of DS-51s, but I suspect they behave similarly) when the dial setting was partially set inbetween settings (between TTL and full). It was just off a little, but enough to cause the strobe not to sync properly. Might be worth checking.

 

[rjsimp]

The SP-350 is capable of syncing at 1/500 shutter speed (at least with the YS-90 and YS-110 strobes). A wide angle shot at 1/500 though will not give you any strobe effect as you see in your dark pictures. I routinely set my settings on land as if I was under water and test the camera. It will work just fine if you consider the fact that you should be close to your subjects under water and you are basically eliminating the effect of the water on light.

For example, I can set my settings at F/8 and 1/250 and take a picture of a small item in my house putting the camera as close as I would underwater and the exposure will work. If there is too much light (the strobe is manual not TTL) then turn the strobe power down or move it away. The same as you'll have to do under water.

Wide angle the same thing. F/5.6 and 1/100 or 1/125 and shoot. In the water, the settings will change based on what you are trying to do with the water color but you'll get an idea of your strobes ability to light a wide angle subject and you'll see the effects of the beam angle.

Shutter speeds should range from 1/60 to 1/125 for wide angle and 1/125 to 1/500 for macro. The reason to go faster shutter speeds in macro is because you are trying to hold a camera still for a closeup and any camera movement will cause a blur. I would even hesitate the 1/125 in macro unless I was trying to get some sort of blue background (which I rarely do). Usually in macro shots, you want to highlight your subject and let your background fade out. The faster shutter speed will give youa crisper picture (along with a F/8 on the aperture) and a dark background to the point of black.

Back to the point of my post though. Every camera is different in the max sync speed. My D200 is maxed at 1/250 for the sync speed. I know that the SP-350 will go to 1/500 though and I think even the 1/1000 worked when I tested it, but I wouldn't need that high.

 

[RussR]

Great advice everyone thanks!

 

[RockyHeap]

See my threads on my Fiji fun with SP-350 for what your camera can do.

I also think you were having strobe issues, but even still, your internal strobe still packs enought light to blow out close up macro shots.

ISO 100 is sorta low, your camera goes up to 400 or 800 asa you know.

I've had to shoot at ISO 64 even for bright strobes way close for macro work so not to blow out the scene.........if your camera works on land, it should fire fine underwater.

Practice, fiddle wit dey knob, then practice some more. If you were using a PT-030, and a Ikelite strobe, I may suggest you spring the $450 for the Ikelite housing then you get full TTL. Though I still shoot much in manual with my DS-125 and an adjustable strobe power output. TTL isn't a fix-all solution.

 

[RussR]

I fooled around with the camera and it seems that when the stobe is switched to Manual the synch is off with the camera and strobe fires only at full power, but when I swtich the strobe to TTL the strobe fires in-synch and the Ikelite Manual Controller controls the power - What a HUGE difference and much more control over exposure!

Somewhere along the way I read that the strobe should be on manual - I guess practice trying diferenbt settings is the only way to go with new equip.

Thanks again!

 

[oly5050user]

I fooled around with the camera and it seems that when the stobe is switched to Manual the synch is off with the camera and strobe fires only at full power, but when I swtich the strobe to TTL the strobe fires in-synch and the Ikelite Manual Controller controls the power - What a HUGE difference and much more control over exposure!

Somewhere along the way I read that the strobe should be on manual - I guess practice trying diferenbt settings is the only way to go with new equip.

Thanks again!

Must have strobe in ttl mode to use the manual controller..Stated on instructions that came with controller..

 

[RussR]

I got it off Ebay without the manual

I must have had in TTL mode for some of the shots because a few came out pretty well

i cant wait for the next opportunity now !