markb
Contributor
Here is my trip report for PI trip 16/08/13 to 09/09/13.
Unfortunately I couldn't get a dive on Biri Island due to the weather and a boat problem so the dive details from their remain elusive but I hope that some of the info that follows is helpful to travellers as they are a bit more up to date than Lonely Planet etc.
The flight down to Catarman goes at 5am so I booked into a hostel for a few hours in Manila and then off I went. Trike to the jeepney station was 100 pesos (sure you could get there cheaper) and then a 60psjeepney ride to Lavesares. I got off and it's obvious where the water is on the right hand side through the market. Boat owners jump on you to take a boat over to Biri - I paid 300ps as there was just me and time was getting on. When you get to Biri there are a few guys waiting to grab your bag off you and then you can get a motorbike to take you to either Biri Island resort or Villa Amore. 5pc for the lad who grabs your bag off you and 10pc for the motorbike ride. These two places are only a few yards apart so you can check them both out. I took a first floor room (with ac) at BIR. The room I was shown at VA was cheaper but not as nice. I asked for a discount and ended up paying 1000ps a night. Richard the owner was in Manila so I dealt with Manager Romualdo who is a very helpful young guy. You will have to order the food you want in advance and they will go get it and cook it for you. Only other choice was a new restaurant that opened the second night I was there just down the road on the way to the village on the left (can't remember the name of it). Run by Zenda and her Sister it's an open air place serving whatever they have that day.
So the wind blew and I was told that it wouldn't be possible to dive as long as it did at the front side of the resort which was where the good spots are. I was the only person in either of the resorts until three French people turned up looking for rooms that evening. I went to look for them in the morning at VA and caught them before they were going to the rock formations. I went along with them and we had a nice day out. The formations are worth a visit, you have a swim in a pool, walk around a bit (ankle deep water so decent sandals are good). Have some lunch which we got from a local store in the village. You can snorkel at the end of the walk if you want to. It's not spectacular but a pleasant enough short day out.
After the grand opening night at the restaurant we went to a kareoke bar (there are two but one was closed due to the wind). 5ps a song and as much Red Horse as you want until about midnight. All very friendly - just a few locals and the owner and a few of the gang from the restaurant.
Diving tomorrow? Maybe - depends on the weather, which of course was exactly the same in the morning. Decided to go and have a snorkel anyway so I got the guy who would have been guiding the dive to take me. We went back to the rocks and jumped in on the back side where we were sheltered from the wind. On the way my man was talking to some of the fishermen who were standing in the shallows. "Dynamite fisherman" oh dear. So 30m+ vis and plenty of nice coral at about 10m but no fish. Did see a big seasnake though and then boom as the dynamite went off. Plenty of baskets in the water as well catching the last of what small fish there are. I gave Marlou 200ps for the day out. (Think that is a days wage for construction work or a decent days catch fishing). After another day of wind I decided to call it a draw and head off. A real shame as you can see the rocks just breaking the surface to the front of the resort which is meant to be a good spot for seeing mantas (check for season) and plenty of fish etc.
A very pleasant island though with none of the hassle that you can get in PI with vendors etc. Prices are set and tipping is not expected. I'm sure there is some crime but it doesn't feel like it - I would imagine that you could leave your room door unlocked here and there would be no problems.
Boat back was 100ps each as there were three of us in the boat. I got onto a trike to Allen and from there took a van down to Tacloban in Leyte. I wanted to have a look at the Marabut Marine Reserve which is back over the San Juanico Bridge into South Samar. I was told to get a private taxi for the day for about 2500ps which would be a good idea if there are a few of you. I just took a van for 120ps e/w from the central Tacloban station. The van dropped me at Marabut village but that was a mistake as you can't get into the water there. I went a bit further up the road to Jasmin Beach Resort and had a snorkel out from there. Waste of time I'm afraid. Some coral in poor condition but very few fish (no equipment for hire at the resort either). Heading back to base in a van and I got talking to a German couple were looking for the Extreme Adventure Resort. The van driver didn't know where it was but after asking a few people we ended up going off road and finding it. I bumped into them in Tacloban later that night and they said that they had a kayak around the small islands just off the beach there and a snorkel and it was good - where I should have gone in fact! It's on the right hand side before you get to Marabut - no signs as they had been blown away in the typhoon. Worth a visit I would say but it is very quiet there.
More info here -
Where to Stay in Samar: Marabut Extreme Experience (Marabut Marine Park Beach Resort) | The Poor Traveler
Had Friday night out at the Astrodome. This is a spot a short trike ride away from downtown (on the way to the airport I think). Lot of small bars side by side where the young folk of Tacloban come to party. We ended up in Ramos Grill and Restobar (right hand side as you look at the building from the road). Great music and a few beers made for a top couple of hours.
Oh well that was the week that was, disappointing in many ways but I had a couple of good nights out and I never get bored travelling in PI.
Next stop Puerto Galera.
I thought that as it was out of season I would go to somewhere a bit busier and at least be guaranteed a dive. I had been in touch with a few of the dive shops in PG with regard to going over to Verde Island to dive. I was surprised to be told that they needed at least four divers to make the trip happen and that at the moment that would be difficult. No more out of the way places if PG was that quiet! I took the bus from Manila to Busanga Pier and then got the boat over and pitched up at Capt'n Gregg's as I had been talking to owner Chuck on the email. Gregg's is right in the middle of it all on Sabang beach. I'm sure there are many reports about PG on here so I won't go on for too long. I have to say that I thought it may have all been a bit overdone and dived out but I was very pleasantly surprised at how good the diving was. Gregg's dive shop was great, dives at 9, 11 and 1 if you want to go, nothing too much trouble, all very laid back but also very safe.
All the sites are only a few minutes away so there are no long journeys on the boat. The corals are in great shape and there is a sea full of fish on most dives. All the usual reef fish plus big jacks, sweetlips and trevally when the currents are running. I did two trips to Verde Island. The first was ok with no current but poor vis, the second was fantastic. Best of the trip was the first dive at West Escarceo in a strong current that brought out all the bigger fish along with the big schools of smaller stuff, all set against the fantastic soft and hard corals. On one dive the water was full of Red Tooth Triggerfish in amounts I had only seen previously on Bunaken Island. The Alma Jane is a nice wreck sat in 30m of water. Also did a couple of fast drifts. There can be strong currents and I would say that if you want to dive at these times then these are advanced dives.
I did a night snorkel straight out from Gregg's and swam over to the rocks on the right of the bay as you look out. Saw a cuttlefish, banded shrimps, catfish, batfish etc etc enough to keep me finning around for 2 hours. As I came out in about 2 inches of water there was an eel swimming through the seagrass. I also had a snorkel around the rocks at the far end of Big Laguna. You have to be careful not to go too far out as there is a lot of boat traffic but the corals are good (in about 5 - 10M) and plenty of fish life. Take a marker with you if you can.
There are plenty of restaurants and bars in Sabang itself and the resorts all the way out to Big Laguna (a 20 minute walk no less!) have restaurants. I had a really good meal at Tamarind (spare ribs speciality were great). Gregg's does good food - plenty of meat and 2 veg stuff which is sometimes just what you need. Also really good steaks on the nightly BBQ. Bella Napoli Pizzeria for top drawer Italian food (never had Italian food this good in the UK) and beneath it there is a cafe with a deli that does good sandwiches etc. A BBQ sets up just near there at night for cheap sticks of meat etc.
So a bit of a disappointing report re Biri but that's one of the problems with remote places out of season. Hope some of the rest of the info is useful.
Cheers
Mark
Unfortunately I couldn't get a dive on Biri Island due to the weather and a boat problem so the dive details from their remain elusive but I hope that some of the info that follows is helpful to travellers as they are a bit more up to date than Lonely Planet etc.
The flight down to Catarman goes at 5am so I booked into a hostel for a few hours in Manila and then off I went. Trike to the jeepney station was 100 pesos (sure you could get there cheaper) and then a 60psjeepney ride to Lavesares. I got off and it's obvious where the water is on the right hand side through the market. Boat owners jump on you to take a boat over to Biri - I paid 300ps as there was just me and time was getting on. When you get to Biri there are a few guys waiting to grab your bag off you and then you can get a motorbike to take you to either Biri Island resort or Villa Amore. 5pc for the lad who grabs your bag off you and 10pc for the motorbike ride. These two places are only a few yards apart so you can check them both out. I took a first floor room (with ac) at BIR. The room I was shown at VA was cheaper but not as nice. I asked for a discount and ended up paying 1000ps a night. Richard the owner was in Manila so I dealt with Manager Romualdo who is a very helpful young guy. You will have to order the food you want in advance and they will go get it and cook it for you. Only other choice was a new restaurant that opened the second night I was there just down the road on the way to the village on the left (can't remember the name of it). Run by Zenda and her Sister it's an open air place serving whatever they have that day.
So the wind blew and I was told that it wouldn't be possible to dive as long as it did at the front side of the resort which was where the good spots are. I was the only person in either of the resorts until three French people turned up looking for rooms that evening. I went to look for them in the morning at VA and caught them before they were going to the rock formations. I went along with them and we had a nice day out. The formations are worth a visit, you have a swim in a pool, walk around a bit (ankle deep water so decent sandals are good). Have some lunch which we got from a local store in the village. You can snorkel at the end of the walk if you want to. It's not spectacular but a pleasant enough short day out.
After the grand opening night at the restaurant we went to a kareoke bar (there are two but one was closed due to the wind). 5ps a song and as much Red Horse as you want until about midnight. All very friendly - just a few locals and the owner and a few of the gang from the restaurant.
Diving tomorrow? Maybe - depends on the weather, which of course was exactly the same in the morning. Decided to go and have a snorkel anyway so I got the guy who would have been guiding the dive to take me. We went back to the rocks and jumped in on the back side where we were sheltered from the wind. On the way my man was talking to some of the fishermen who were standing in the shallows. "Dynamite fisherman" oh dear. So 30m+ vis and plenty of nice coral at about 10m but no fish. Did see a big seasnake though and then boom as the dynamite went off. Plenty of baskets in the water as well catching the last of what small fish there are. I gave Marlou 200ps for the day out. (Think that is a days wage for construction work or a decent days catch fishing). After another day of wind I decided to call it a draw and head off. A real shame as you can see the rocks just breaking the surface to the front of the resort which is meant to be a good spot for seeing mantas (check for season) and plenty of fish etc.
A very pleasant island though with none of the hassle that you can get in PI with vendors etc. Prices are set and tipping is not expected. I'm sure there is some crime but it doesn't feel like it - I would imagine that you could leave your room door unlocked here and there would be no problems.
Boat back was 100ps each as there were three of us in the boat. I got onto a trike to Allen and from there took a van down to Tacloban in Leyte. I wanted to have a look at the Marabut Marine Reserve which is back over the San Juanico Bridge into South Samar. I was told to get a private taxi for the day for about 2500ps which would be a good idea if there are a few of you. I just took a van for 120ps e/w from the central Tacloban station. The van dropped me at Marabut village but that was a mistake as you can't get into the water there. I went a bit further up the road to Jasmin Beach Resort and had a snorkel out from there. Waste of time I'm afraid. Some coral in poor condition but very few fish (no equipment for hire at the resort either). Heading back to base in a van and I got talking to a German couple were looking for the Extreme Adventure Resort. The van driver didn't know where it was but after asking a few people we ended up going off road and finding it. I bumped into them in Tacloban later that night and they said that they had a kayak around the small islands just off the beach there and a snorkel and it was good - where I should have gone in fact! It's on the right hand side before you get to Marabut - no signs as they had been blown away in the typhoon. Worth a visit I would say but it is very quiet there.
More info here -
Where to Stay in Samar: Marabut Extreme Experience (Marabut Marine Park Beach Resort) | The Poor Traveler
Had Friday night out at the Astrodome. This is a spot a short trike ride away from downtown (on the way to the airport I think). Lot of small bars side by side where the young folk of Tacloban come to party. We ended up in Ramos Grill and Restobar (right hand side as you look at the building from the road). Great music and a few beers made for a top couple of hours.
Oh well that was the week that was, disappointing in many ways but I had a couple of good nights out and I never get bored travelling in PI.
Next stop Puerto Galera.
I thought that as it was out of season I would go to somewhere a bit busier and at least be guaranteed a dive. I had been in touch with a few of the dive shops in PG with regard to going over to Verde Island to dive. I was surprised to be told that they needed at least four divers to make the trip happen and that at the moment that would be difficult. No more out of the way places if PG was that quiet! I took the bus from Manila to Busanga Pier and then got the boat over and pitched up at Capt'n Gregg's as I had been talking to owner Chuck on the email. Gregg's is right in the middle of it all on Sabang beach. I'm sure there are many reports about PG on here so I won't go on for too long. I have to say that I thought it may have all been a bit overdone and dived out but I was very pleasantly surprised at how good the diving was. Gregg's dive shop was great, dives at 9, 11 and 1 if you want to go, nothing too much trouble, all very laid back but also very safe.
All the sites are only a few minutes away so there are no long journeys on the boat. The corals are in great shape and there is a sea full of fish on most dives. All the usual reef fish plus big jacks, sweetlips and trevally when the currents are running. I did two trips to Verde Island. The first was ok with no current but poor vis, the second was fantastic. Best of the trip was the first dive at West Escarceo in a strong current that brought out all the bigger fish along with the big schools of smaller stuff, all set against the fantastic soft and hard corals. On one dive the water was full of Red Tooth Triggerfish in amounts I had only seen previously on Bunaken Island. The Alma Jane is a nice wreck sat in 30m of water. Also did a couple of fast drifts. There can be strong currents and I would say that if you want to dive at these times then these are advanced dives.
I did a night snorkel straight out from Gregg's and swam over to the rocks on the right of the bay as you look out. Saw a cuttlefish, banded shrimps, catfish, batfish etc etc enough to keep me finning around for 2 hours. As I came out in about 2 inches of water there was an eel swimming through the seagrass. I also had a snorkel around the rocks at the far end of Big Laguna. You have to be careful not to go too far out as there is a lot of boat traffic but the corals are good (in about 5 - 10M) and plenty of fish life. Take a marker with you if you can.
There are plenty of restaurants and bars in Sabang itself and the resorts all the way out to Big Laguna (a 20 minute walk no less!) have restaurants. I had a really good meal at Tamarind (spare ribs speciality were great). Gregg's does good food - plenty of meat and 2 veg stuff which is sometimes just what you need. Also really good steaks on the nightly BBQ. Bella Napoli Pizzeria for top drawer Italian food (never had Italian food this good in the UK) and beneath it there is a cafe with a deli that does good sandwiches etc. A BBQ sets up just near there at night for cheap sticks of meat etc.
So a bit of a disappointing report re Biri but that's one of the problems with remote places out of season. Hope some of the rest of the info is useful.
Cheers
Mark
