Beneath the Surface 3/4" Locline Flex arm

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Thanks for the advice and tips. I think I will go with the rigid ball joint arms as most people have recommended them. Thanks for the response, you saved me money and trial and error. Any recommendations of what size rigid arms I should get? I have two 8" arms, one for each strobe, and would like to add to them. What size would you recommend?
Thanks
Stay safe
Happy Holidays
 
Locline and the mentioned Chinese Flex arms (Intova, also sold by Fantasea and other dealers re-branded) work fine for small strobes like Inon S2000 and even Z240 / Z330 when underwater.

I used Locline for decades and the 3/4" segments work fine. I also used them with Ikelite DS51 strobes and even have some Ikelite customers using the Locline 3/4" arms with the larger DS160 / 161 strobes.

Above water I simply tilted both arms forward making the system like a tripod to set down and cross above the center to carry to boat or hotel room. The same technique for people with larger SLR or Mirrorless systems works or add one of those straps and clips to your heavier handles.

Yes, Flex arms of any type make noise when adjusting. I adjust strobe or video lighting angle FIRST then shoot or record. Any attempt to move video lighting DURING video will result in a jiggle etc. which is VERY distracting unless you'll edit it out later.

While generally cheaper and lighter I understand why people like ball joint arms and clamps. It feels solid above and below water.

But for my needs the last 4 years shooting a compact Canon G7X II camera in my Fantasea housing adding anything heavier to my rig goes against anything I want or need. Why get a lightweight housing and camera the ADD weight to it underwater???

Additionally using ball joint / clamp arm set ups I see people adding MORE bulk in the form of STIX blocks or buoyancy tube arms to ADD positive buoyancy underwater.

Diving is complicated enough I don't need more complication when to enjoy a dive. The bigger and heavier you make your system will be more you have to push through the water. Not fun.....

I'm a "simple is best" person in diving and life so don't follow my insights unless you are too!! LOL......

Just one old guy's opinion (FY I'm 67, 50 years diving this year with thousands of dives over those decades traveling all over the world.

David Haas
Haas Photography Inc.
Stow OH USA

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Thanks for the input! Most people are agreeing that the rigid ball joint arms are better, and for my purposes, I agree. I am trying to shoot a good bit of macro and the Locline arms seem like they won't be the right fit for me. Flex arms do seem handy and I am glad they work for you!
Thanks for the response, I love your pictures
Stay safe
Happy holidays
 
There are loc-line to ball joint adapters (or there were). It is interesting that photo guys mostly use ball and arm systems while the video guys mostly use loc-line.
Bill

Yes, it seems like that is the case. The reason I got interested in the Flex arms is that I saw Jonathon Bird using them in his TV show. Of course, he is shooting video, and I am shooting stills.
Thanks for the reply
Stay safe
Happy Holidays
 
As Thomas Whitt mentioned yes, Jonathan Bird (plus other UW videographers) successfully use the LoclIne arms. The main reasons are as stated you can adjust hem very quickly.

The other being they are less expensive. You break a segment or two, simply pop it off and pop on more pieces / parts. They all are totally impervious to salt water. Rinse for a few seconds and you're done.

I dived with Jonathan and famous IMAX cinematographer Howard Hall and his wife Michelle Hall in the Philippines in 2018. Michelle used two short Locline arms on her Nauticam / INON Z240 dual strobe rig.

Not in the 2nd photo below how Jonathan Bird used a 3rd Locline arm for his white balancing slate. Swing it in, adjust whit balance and swing it out fo the way very quickly.

Use what you like and just keep capturing memories!

David Haas
Haas Photography Inc.

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