Barbados, St Lucia, St. Maarten & St. Croix

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scoupland

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I took a Royal Caribbean Cruise last week was able to dive on four Caribbean islands. We only had one day in each port. All the shops had AL 80 tanks filled with air. Nitrox was only available on one of the islands, St. Croix. I had my own equipment so I can’t comment on the quality or conditions of the gear at the various dive shops. I pre-scheduled with dive shops that were not working with the cruise ship. Here is a brief report of my experience.

Island: Barbados
July 7, 2009
Dive shop: The Dive Shop, LTD
The dive boat wasn’t a cattle boat (which is a positive), had good speed, but limited shade. The shop and dive crew were all friendly and professional. The dive sites were close to the dive shop—5-10 minutes away. They provide a free transfer to and from the dive shop.
The visibility was fair and varied from 20’ to 40’. They told me that recent bad weather had stirred up the seas decreasing the viz significantly.

Dive 1
Location: Carlenes Reef
Max. depth: 76’
Water temp.: 84
Dive time: 37 min.
This was a reef drift dive. Compared to what I typically see on SE Florida reefs there was more reef structure, but due to a lack of fishing regulations, there were fewer fish and the fish were smaller. At one point in the dive we came upon a large fish trap, so we opened it up and let the fish out. One thing we did see was turtles. The dive was shorter than I had hoped. I had plenty of air left and time before deco but one of the divers ran short on air so the divemaster called the dive.

Dive 2
Location: Asta Reef, Friar’s Craig Wreck, Lobster Reef
Max. depth: 55’
Water temp.: 84
Dive time: 53 min.
This was another drift dive across to reef systems with a wreck in between them. The wreck was pretty broken up. The stern and bow were jetting up from the sand but that was about all there was to see of it. The reef was similar to Carlene’s Reef—lots of turtles and not so many fish. The dive wasn’t as deep so it ran longer than the first one, which I appreciated.

Dive 3
Location: A series of 6 shallow wrecks
Max. depth: 52’
Water temp.: 84
Dive time: 50 min.
This collection of wrecks was very shallow for the most part. Many were between 10-30’ which made this area a big attraction for resort snorkelers. The fact that there were 6 wrecks in the area made it interesting. I saw my first sea horse which was exciting. I was the only person on this dive. I appreciated them taking me out even though it was only me and the divemaster.

If I was returning to the Caribbean to dive, I don’t think Barbados would be high on my list. It is not bad diving, but there is better out there.

Island: St. Lucia
July 8, 2009
Dive shop: Dive Fair Helen
The boat was large and comfortable, although there were only 3 divers on it. The instructor told me this time of the year is off-season and, in addition, the economy has been hurting the dive industry on their island. They sent a taxi van to pick me up from the pier and the two other divers from a local hotel were already in the van. I enjoyed talking to this honeymoon couple but was surprised to learn that they had never been diving before yet planned on diving without being certified. Sure enough, the instructor did about a 20 minute review of some basics and into the water they went. She kept them at 30’ but I was shocked that she would take people diving without training. I guess the economy was really bad and she was desperate. This arrangement disappointed me because I had hoped to make some more challenging dives but I was limited by these newbies. Despite the instructor’s, in my opinion, lack of judgment in taking nondivers diving, she was enjoyable and served a pleasing homemade lunch of island food. The visibility for both dives was 40-50’.

Dive 1
Location: Anse Conchon (Bay of Pigs)
Max. depth: 54’
Water temp.: 82
Dive time: 46 min.
Although we took a boat to this bay, it was essentially a shore dive. The instructor told me to swim around in the shallows until the other inexperienced divers were ready to go. This made me mad. I didn’t want to waste air swimming around a bunch of rocks at 5-10’. Thankfully, we didn’t stay there too long. It got deeper fairly quickly and it turned out to be a great dive. The reef formation was nice and had a decent amount of life on it.

Dive 2
Location: Roseman Trench
Max. depth: 34’
Water temp.: 82
Dive time: 52 min.
This was a shallow reef dive that would be great for check out dives with OW divers. Despite the shallow nature of dive the patch reef structures were 20-30’ high with plenty of sea of life to observe. It was an easy dive but I enjoyed it. It reminded me of the reefs in Key Largo.

I would be very interested in diving St. Lucia again but I would want to try some more challenging dive sites.

Island: St. Maarten (the Dutch side of the island)
July 10, 2009
Dive shop: Blue Bubble Watersports
The dive shop provided a transfer to and from the pier. The dive crew was enjoyable which made day pleasurable. The dive boat could handle a good number of divers but thankfully there were only a handful of us on board. I didn’t like the design of the boat. The mid-engine design meant you had to crawl over engine compartment to get between the cabin area and the dive platform. This was very difficult when geared up and 4-5’ seas. Also, the back of the boat didn’t open onto the dive platform. Instead, you had to climb over the rear wall of the boat to get to the platform or back into the boat. This made getting on or off the boat very challenging. In fact, the instructor fell off the platform while trying to get back into the boat following a dive and fell onto another diver. It surprised me that they didn’t have a dive float/flag but relied on the boat captain to follow the divers below around despite 4-5’ seas. The viz on both dives was about 60’.

Dive 1
Location: Fish Bowl Reef
Max. depth: 62’
Water temp.: 84
Dive time: 43 min.
This was a reef dive. The reef structure and life was good but not great. Caribbean reef sharks were plentiful but nothing else too unique.

Dive 2
Location: Carib Cargo Wreck
Max. depth: 66’
Water temp.: 85
Dive time: 45 min.
This wreck was interesting for about 15-20 minutes. After that there wasn’t much to see. There was no reef around and not much sea life on the wreck.

This was my second time diving in St Maarten. I’m always happy to be in under the water, but if I was listing my top 10 Caribbean islands for diving, this one would not be on it.

Island: St. Croix
July 11, 2009
Dive shop: St. Croix Ultimate Bluewater Adventures (SCUBA)
I was told to skip the diving on St. Croix and take an island tour instead. I was glad I didn’t listen to this advice. My two dives on this island were wonderful and I wished I had time for more. The dive crew and captain were very friendly and professional. The boat could accommodate a large group but with it being off season there were only six divers on board. The boat wasn’t particularly fast but I didn’t mind because the conversations with my fellow divers were enjoyable. We dove out of Christiansted which was a 45 minute trip from the pier. I was responsible for getting myself back on forth but they did hold up the departure to wait for me, which I appreciated.

Dive 1
Location: Outer West Wall
Max. depth: 82’
Water temp.: 85
Dive time: 44 min.
Diving a reef wall was a nice change from the previous dives I made on the trip. I was hoping to see something big in the deep behind us, but alas, it didn’t happen. A couple on the boat said earlier in the week they had a pod of dolphins swimming around them on one of the dives. They had also seen two manta rays in the seas around this island. Nevertheless, the nooks and crannies of the reef wall were interesting. The water was clear with about 80’ viz.

Dive 2
Location: Blue Shoot Reef
Max. depth: 82’
Water temp.: 85
Dive time: 48 min.
This was a leisurely reef dive. I liked it because I saw a number of coral species I had not seen in the sea before. I have a reef aquarium at home so I appreciated the coral varieties. There was a sunken barge on the reef but there wasn’t much to it. The viz was about half what it was on the first dive.

I would dive St. Croix again and would do it with the SCUBA dive shop.
 
It has been a while, but Haroun and the guys at the Dive Shop, Ltd. are great folks. I'd mildly disagree with you on the quality of diving, however. I've been there twice, and it is on my list of places to go back to. The six wreck site you refer to is best done at night, especially with a full moon.

Plus, there are better day-time dive sites, such as the purpose wreck of the Stavro. It appears you were time-limited due to your cruise ship schedule, but if you can stay there for a week or so, I don't think you will be as disappointed as you appear to have been on your day trip.

Your experience on St. Lucia (with inexperienced divers) is not that unusual, to my knowledge and experiences. We dove recently in Puerto Rico, and with both dive shops we went with, one in Rincon, the other in La Parguara, we had either first time divers, or divers who hadn't been in the water in years.

Thanks for the quick tour of that part of the Caribbean!

Cheers!
 
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