Ball arm or Flex arm?

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I've used both, but purchased a ball arm. (Ikelite) The flex arm is easier to manipulate for tight shots, but it's all floppy at all other times. The ball is a bit more tricky until you get the hang of it, but I like the fact that it's not floppy, especially getting on and off the boat.
 
nvert:
Which is better of the two?

Things are very rarely so clean cut and simple in underwater photography. Much of what is better for you really depends on the type of photography that you do. There are advantages to both type setups, but rarely do you find one particular setup that will work under all conditions and applications.

For me, I shoot a lot of wrecks in limited visibility conditions and as a result, I need to hold my strobes as far off the camera as is practical. I currently use a set of dual ULCS buoyancy arms for each strobe that holds them off almost 4 feet either side of my camera. Having that sort of length with flex arms may not hold the strobes in place, especially if there is a current. But that doesn't mean the rigid ball arms are better. It is better for me under these conditions.
 
I've used Ikelites, Loclines and ULCS arms. All worked and all had benefits and disadvantages.

Consider your budget - ULCS are not for the faint of wallet, but they are light, have a large range of choices of bits so you can choose the right set-up to get started and add more things as required and have an excellent reputation. These are simply great arms.

Ikelites are relatively inexpensive, mine always held position very well with minimal fussing and they also have a range of options. They are sturdy - which is nice coz you know they are virtually indestructible, but the downside is that they are bulky and heavy-ish.

Loclines are very inexpensive, extremely flexible and easy to pop off underwater. I like this last feature as I am able to remove the arm completely from my rig for certain shots and then reattach...allows me to do things I couldn't do with the other arms as easily. Downside is that when you go really long as Warren says, you may get a bit of movement. I do not, right now, do that kind of shooting, so don't really know. I usually use 18+ segments and the Inon strobes with no problems in the arms not holding position. I am staying with these for now and will add ULCS at a later date perhaps.

Also check out your strobe fittings and make sure you get the right bits to attach strobe and trays. Sometimes some handy-man skills are necessary!
 
Another thing to consider is buoyancy for your setup. The added weight of a strobe, wide angle lens, close-up lens etc. to your tray will make for a heavier rig.
Consider how you will compensate for this if it becomes an issue.
I am using the loc-line arm for my homemade tray setup and finally figured out a way to give the rig some needed bouyancy. I added two sections of capped ABS pipe to my tray which helped a lot.
 
The flexibility of the flex arms is nice, but...
As others have mentioned, not so good in the long variety or in currents.
I dive in a lot of strong currents and have even had a strobe come back and smack me in the face when hooked in $^#^$% ! And that is with a ball joint...when i know i am going in strong current i now lock em down like nobodies business.
Usually i leave them quite loose and they are pretty much as easy to manipulate as the flex arms if you ask me.

I use TLC/Aquatica
 
Ball arm. Preferabally TLC or ULCS. Just get them, and don't look back.

All the best, James
 

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