Baja California - Road trip Summer ' 21

[Pat85]

I have been to Baja 5 times in the last 2 years and just returned from a 1 week stay in Cabo San Lucas. Since you are on a 10-14 timetable and are interested in the diving, I would suggest flying in and out of San Jose Del Cabo (SJD airport code) and renting a car there. Use Cactus rentals.
Shuttle Airport - All the time Cabo
No BS, or hidden charges. I've used them every trip and they are awesome. You'll just need a basic car. No SUV is necessary -- even if you drive (and be sure to stay there as well) to Cabo Pulmo -- where the best diving is.
We stayed at Baja Bungalows for a week last October and loved it:
Home
For diving in Pulmo we've used Pilu twice. Can't say enough good things about her and her operation:
Cabo Pulmo Diver | Recreational Scuba Diving Activities

In my opinion, you'll just be wasting 4 days (2 down, 2 back up) of boring driving in the upper 2/3 of Baja if you start from Tijuana. All the good stuff is in the bottom 1/3 of Baja -- and most of that is on the east coast of Baja.

Horn34 nailed it on the places to see (and avoid) although Todos Santos is a an interesting "Disney Epcot" diversion from the rest of the pueblos. As far as safety goes, there are probably more gringos in Baja Sur than locals --especially during the non-summer months. It's as safe as anywhere on the planet. No one even locks their doors in Pulmo. The only danger (and it's a REAL one) is driving at night. Don't do it! You'll hit a cow or blast across some random "TOPES" and wreck the front end.

Another great piece of info! thanks so much! I like the Cabo Pumper Diver suggestion, I saw that the husband of Pilu is from the Netherlands, so that would be a cool plus! Definitely in my list!

 

[Lorenzoid]

I used to do the drive down quite a bit when I lived in San Diego. It's safe enough, but take the obvious precautions for driving in an unfamiliar, mostly rural place. Don't drive at night, as the roads are poorly lit (if at all), there can be animals (or people) on the road, and for some reason people seem to forget to turn on their car headlights.

I wasn't even aware the land border was open again. Shows what a rock I have been living under for almost a year.

Edit: Going back and reading the posts more carefully, I see someone already mentioned "don't drive at night" in post #5.

 

[Pat85]

I used to do the drive down quite a bit when I lived in San Diego. It's safe enough, but take the obvious precautions for driving in an unfamiliar, mostly rural place. Don't drive at night, as the roads are poorly lit (if at all), there can be animals (or people) on the road, and for some reason people seem to forget to turn on their car headlights.

I wasn't even aware the land border was open again. Shows what a rock I have been living under for almost a year.

Edit: Going back and reading the posts more carefully, I see someone already mentioned "don't drive at night" in post #5.

Thanks for the reply! the lesson of not driving at night is clear for sure! Not sure if the the land border is open though, since I don't live in the US. Travel by plane seems to be no problem (atm).

 

[Pat85]

Planning is still going on, main focus (scuba wise) could be doing a longer time in either Cabo Pulmo or La Paz. More dives for me to experience, and the opportunity for my partner to get her OW.
The latter would be more important, so we can enjoy more future dives and dives spots together.
Any pro's or cons for getting her OW in either of those places (Cabo Pulmo or La Paz) around September this year?
Thanks guys!

 

[auto]

I have been to Baja 5 times in the last 2 years and just returned from a 1 week stay in Cabo San Lucas. Since you are on a 10-14 timetable and are interested in the diving, I would suggest flying in and out of San Jose Del Cabo (SJD airport code) and renting a car there. Use Cactus rentals.
Shuttle Airport - All the time Cabo
No BS, or hidden charges. I've used them every trip and they are awesome. You'll just need a basic car. No SUV is necessary -- even if you drive (and be sure to stay there as well) to Cabo Pulmo -- where the best diving is.
We stayed at Baja Bungalows for a week last October and loved it:
Home
For diving in Pulmo we've used Pilu twice. Can't say enough good things about her and her operation:
Cabo Pulmo Diver | Recreational Scuba Diving Activities

In my opinion, you'll just be wasting 4 days (2 down, 2 back up) of boring driving in the upper 2/3 of Baja if you start from Tijuana. All the good stuff is in the bottom 1/3 of Baja -- and most of that is on the east coast of Baja.

Horn34 nailed it on the places to see (and avoid) although Todos Santos is a an interesting "Disney Epcot" diversion from the rest of the pueblos. As far as safety goes, there are probably more gringos in Baja Sur than locals --especially during the non-summer months. It's as safe as anywhere on the planet. No one even locks their doors in Pulmo. The only danger (and it's a REAL one) is driving at night. Don't do it! You'll hit a cow or blast across some random "TOPES" and wreck the front end.

Does Pilu usually respond in a timely matter? I have sent several emails over the last 7 days and have not had a response.

 

[kumimonster]

Does Pilu usually respond in a timely matter? I have sent several emails over the last 7 days and have not had a response.

she can be a little slow to respond.
internet access there isn't the best.
i know she got back recently from a socorros trip but that was a couple of weeks ago.

 

[kumimonster]

Cabo Pulmo is a a yearly or 2x year trip for me. Except for last year because of that little worldwide pandemic. I had to cancel my trip. I will be back in October of this year though.

Keep in mind that August and September is hurricane season and flooding DOES occur and the road to CP becomes impassable on the gulf side of Santa Cruz (a little town you will drive through with speed bumps that you will feel throughout your body if you hit them too fast!) If you make it past that one, you'll come across another section of road that also gets washed away in parts.
Definitely keep an eye on the weather.

If you do make it down there during that season, also keep in mind that it gets HOT. CP is an eco-village with a LOT of the community on solar power. If you end up staying at a place, A/C via a generator is available at some of them but they will charge you. And it's also something that they frown upon using a lot because you could knock out power for everyone at certain venues.

Diving in general MUST be done via local operations because their dive masters are specifically certified to take people into the marine park. (Local meaning CP and some operators out of SJD/CSL). This includes jumping into the ocean to go for a snorkel. There's a daily fee to use the park. That said, people still walk down the beach to the far end (north) to jump in and splash around but if you attempt it at the end closer to the dive shops, the boat captains will come to stop you and direct you out of the water (and radio it in to the tower).

I usually dive with Pilu (mentioned above). She is Cabo Pulmo Diving. Henri doesn't dive anymore but hangs out with their dogs. I usually visit or throw a dinner party when I'm in town so we have an excuse to socialize without being underwater!
I have also gone out with Cabo Pulmo Divers (the shop she worked for and still works out of). Their family is credited with being one of the "founders" of the place as far as eco-tourism, etc. But there are also family members that work at other places with names you can easily mix up with the others. (Cabo Pulmo Sport Center for one - Pilu uses their boats and Captain Luis is the bomb!)
I also have gone out with Manuela (Blue Passion Baja) who is super cool. Claudio, her partner is also a freediver and teaches courses for those interested.

There are other shops, Cabo Pulmo Watersports for example, that friends have used and have said great things about.
All of these shops are very close together and work from the same area of beach with one exception mentioned earlier:
Cabo Pulmo Beach Resort. They have their own separate section of beach where they launch from. My friend has rented bikes from there 2x (and got a flat 2x). I haven't used their actual dive services so can't comment on that. I tried to once but I was put off by the lack of help in trying to get it booked in the first place. (I was pretty much ignored while standing in the shop for about 10 minutes).

I don't have experience with La Paz so I'll stick to CP. Most all of the dives there are going to be around 55 feet. Maybe 60 or even 65. There's only one that goes down to about 80. If you leave the marine park and head south to Los Frailes there are a couple of dives there that are really nice and go past 100. Usually heading there means the weather conditions warrant a trip to that bay. Otherwise, lots of easy diving in CP. Immense amount of marine creatures. The increase in biomass over the years is astounding. If you like sharks, there are resident bulls and they're happy sharks and I've never NOT seen them each time I've gone.
Dive sites visits by boat/diver are limited each day/week. The first group to check in with the tower (with their DM) gets first dibs on the dive site. (El Vencedor with the sharks usually goes first). The start date of each week varies.
Two of my friends have taken their OW there. They loved it. (Though personally, I think they should have taken them in tropical Monterey, California! and then do the easy fun dives in the warmer waters of Mexico).

Also to know: bring cash. The nearest ATM is an hour or so north. Lots of places prefer cash to credit cards (and you will save some money) (Peso or US$).

Hmm. Didn't realize I'd be posting a mini-novel!

 

[auto]

Dove CP on Saturday and the amount and diversity of fish was amazing. The bulls, about 10 hung out with us for the entire dive, just insane how close they were. Still going back in October, then to La Paz, then to Cabo for the Bisbee. Love CP, stupid awesome.

 

[kumimonster]

Dove CP on Saturday and the amount and diversity of fish was amazing. The bulls, about 10 hung out with us for the entire dive, just insane how close they were. Still going back in October, then to La Paz, then to Cabo for the Bisbee. Love CP, stupid awesome.

i'll be there oct 19 - 27!!

 

[Pat85]

Cabo Pulmo is a a yearly or 2x year trip for me. Except for last year because of that little worldwide pandemic. I had to cancel my trip. I will be back in October of this year though.

Keep in mind that August and September is hurricane season and flooding DOES occur and the road to CP becomes impassable on the gulf side of Santa Cruz (a little town you will drive through with speed bumps that you will feel throughout your body if you hit them too fast!) If you make it past that one, you'll come across another section of road that also gets washed away in parts.
Definitely keep an eye on the weather.

If you do make it down there during that season, also keep in mind that it gets HOT. CP is an eco-village with a LOT of the community on solar power. If you end up staying at a place, A/C via a generator is available at some of them but they will charge you. And it's also something that they frown upon using a lot because you could knock out power for everyone at certain venues.

Diving in general MUST be done via local operations because their dive masters are specifically certified to take people into the marine park. (Local meaning CP and some operators out of SJD/CSL). This includes jumping into the ocean to go for a snorkel. There's a daily fee to use the park. That said, people still walk down the beach to the far end (north) to jump in and splash around but if you attempt it at the end closer to the dive shops, the boat captains will come to stop you and direct you out of the water (and radio it in to the tower).

I usually dive with Pilu (mentioned above). She is Cabo Pulmo Diving. Henri doesn't dive anymore but hangs out with their dogs. I usually visit or throw a dinner party when I'm in town so we have an excuse to socialize without being underwater!
I have also gone out with Cabo Pulmo Divers (the shop she worked for and still works out of). Their family is credited with being one of the "founders" of the place as far as eco-tourism, etc. But there are also family members that work at other places with names you can easily mix up with the others. (Cabo Pulmo Sport Center for one - Pilu uses their boats and Captain Luis is the bomb!)
I also have gone out with Manuela (Blue Passion Baja) who is super cool. Claudio, her partner is also a freediver and teaches courses for those interested.

There are other shops, Cabo Pulmo Watersports for example, that friends have used and have said great things about.
All of these shops are very close together and work from the same area of beach with one exception mentioned earlier:
Cabo Pulmo Beach Resort. They have their own separate section of beach where they launch from. My friend has rented bikes from there 2x (and got a flat 2x). I haven't used their actual dive services so can't comment on that. I tried to once but I was put off by the lack of help in trying to get it booked in the first place. (I was pretty much ignored while standing in the shop for about 10 minutes).

I don't have experience with La Paz so I'll stick to CP. Most all of the dives there are going to be around 55 feet. Maybe 60 or even 65. There's only one that goes down to about 80. If you leave the marine park and head south to Los Frailes there are a couple of dives there that are really nice and go past 100. Usually heading there means the weather conditions warrant a trip to that bay. Otherwise, lots of easy diving in CP. Immense amount of marine creatures. The increase in biomass over the years is astounding. If you like sharks, there are resident bulls and they're happy sharks and I've never NOT seen them each time I've gone.
Dive sites visits by boat/diver are limited each day/week. The first group to check in with the tower (with their DM) gets first dibs on the dive site. (El Vencedor with the sharks usually goes first). The start date of each week varies.
Two of my friends have taken their OW there. They loved it. (Though personally, I think they should have taken them in tropical Monterey, California! and then do the easy fun dives in the warmer waters of Mexico).

Also to know: bring cash. The nearest ATM is an hour or so north. Lots of places prefer cash to credit cards (and you will save some money) (Peso or US$).

Hmm. Didn't realize I'd be posting a mini-novel!

Thank you, this a great post...sounds amazing! Really cannot wait to see my first shark(s)!
Work is shifting the trip towards the end of September and October. So probably will 'miss' hurricane season!

CB definitely is on the top of the list now!