Info Backscatter Hybrid Flash HF-01: preliminary review

[stuartv]

@Germie Why can't you change the float arm whenever you change the strobe? Or I guess you could add an additional short float arm and clamp whenever you attach the HF-1?

For me, changing out a float arm any time I change to a different strobe is a trivial matter.

I bought my z240s used, roughly 8 years ago. I did change out the magnet switches on them a few years ago as preventative maintenance. They still work fine.

I bought my z330 II strobes new, 3 years or so ago. I have not had any issues with them at all.

I bought my HF-1 strobes last year in June when they had first come out. I haven't gotten to use them all that much yet, but they are awesome so far. No trouble with them.

 

[Germie]

@Germie Why can't you change the float arm whenever you change the strobe? Or I guess you could add an additional short float arm and clamp whenever you attach the HF-1?

For me, changing out a float arm any time I change to a different strobe is a trivial matter.

I bought my z240s used, roughly 8 years ago. I did change out the magnet switches on them a few years ago as preventative maintenance. They still work fine.

I bought my z330 II strobes new, 3 years or so ago. I have not had any issues with them at all.

I bought my HF-1 strobes last year in June when they had first come out. I haven't gotten to use them all that much yet, but they are awesome so far. No trouble with them.

My floating arms are now just completely perfect. I don't want to change that. Also when travelling by plane, there is absolutely no room anymore in my luggage for another float. More lift changes also the length.

I have had since 2019 3 Z330 and all have had problems. I use them a lot (170 dives a year). But all problems with the switches. And now I have a strobe that has no problems with the switches, and it flashes, but not strong enough anymore. Repair from the broken switches is not possible they told me.
So I have now 1 working without pilotlight and no off switch anymore. 1 that works sometimes fine and sometimes not (so it is the switch). And 1 that has no problems with the switch, but has problems with the output.
I need trustable strobes. I have also S2000 and they seem to be much stronger. I use them less because I can only use them for specific dives as slave strobes. But here no switch problems.

I also have the Backscatter macro strobe. This works till now very nice. No problems. I have the second version, there were problems with the first.

I if the Hybrid flash is as good as the macro, then I will be satisfied with the durability and hopely the output too. But the negative weight under water is something I do not like sadly.

 

[davehicks]

My floating arms are now just completely perfect. I don't want to change that. Also when travelling by plane, there is absolutely no room anymore in my luggage for another float. More lift changes also the length.

I have had since 2019 3 Z330 and all have had problems. I use them a lot (170 dives a year). But all problems with the switches. And now I have a strobe that has no problems with the switches, and it flashes, but not strong enough anymore. Repair from the broken switches is not possible they told me.
So I have now 1 working without pilotlight and no off switch anymore. 1 that works sometimes fine and sometimes not (so it is the switch). And 1 that has no problems with the switch, but has problems with the output.
I need trustable strobes. I have also S2000 and they seem to be much stronger. I use them less because I can only use them for specific dives as slave strobes. But here no switch problems.

I also have the Backscatter macro strobe. This works till now very nice. No problems. I have the second version, there were problems with the first.

I if the Hybrid flash is as good as the macro, then I will be satisfied with the durability and hopely the output too. But the negative weight under water is something I do not like sadly.

I made a macro port float ring that has been very successful for me. It weights 200g and adds 355g of buoyancy to the rig while not really taking much space in packing or diving. It fits snuggly and bolts securely to a Nauticam port 87 used with a 105mm macro lens. It is especially nice when i add heavy glass diopters to the rig.

Shown here separated, but i rarely remove it in regular use. Pack the port with a padded lens wrapped inside and it is very space efficient.

 

[Germie]

I know them, but they don't work for dome ports and also they don't work if you also use a flipadapter which is screwed already around the macroport.
So no option. And my macro set has the same weight as the wide angle set, so it is impossible to add more lift without changing the arm length. Thicker will make it less bendable, so also useless.

I use Olympus by the way, so not the biggest set.

It is a very pity that my perfectly set now isn't floating anymore. I hope I will find a workable solution (and also in future if I need to buy a second Backscatter strobe).

 

[Barmaglot]

Thicker will make it less bendable, so also useless.

Use longer clamps? Extra arm as a crossbar on top of the housing?

 

[davehicks]

I know them, but they don't work for dome ports and also they don't work if you also use a flipadapter which is screwed already around the macroport.
So no option. And my macro set has the same weight as the wide angle set, so it is impossible to add more lift without changing the arm length. Thicker will make it less bendable, so also useless.

Are you suggesting the float collar won't work with a Flip Adapter? I only use it with a Flip Adapter. I always have a double flip attached with 1 or 2 diopters installed.

Why do you discount using longer arms? Most people use arms that are too short for good light placement anyways. It's a viable solution but you dismiss and walk away in despair. Get some Jumbo Stix float blocks and resolve your buoyancy concerns.

 

[jbarry_underwater]

I made a macro port float ring that has been very successful for me. It weights 200g and adds 355g of buoyancy to the rig while not really taking much space in packing or diving. It fits snuggly and bolts securely to a Nauticam port 87 used with a 105mm macro lens. It is especially nice when i add heavy glass diopters to the rig.

Shown here separated, but i rarely remove it in regular use. Pack the port with a padded lens wrapped inside and it is very space efficient.

View attachment 883394

Do you mind sharing how you made that? What it’s made of? Looks more efficient than the manufactured float belts I’ve seen

 

[davehicks]

Do you mind sharing how you made that? What it’s made of? Looks more efficient than the manufactured float belts I’ve seen

It is a custom 3d printed design. Form fitting to the port. I have made versions with both ABS and PLA. 3mm walls and about 8% grid infill. I used acetone smoothing on the ABS version for better sealing and then painted on epoxy resin. The most recent one i added a carbon fiber wrap for durability.

The first attempt didn't last but later iterations are holding up well after about 40-50 dives to a max 100-105 ft. I have variants for the 105mm and 60mm lens ports.

 

[jbarry_underwater]

It is a custom 3d printed design. Form fitting to the port. I have made versions with both ABS and PLA. 3mm walls and about 8% grid infill. I used acetone smoothing on the ABS version for better sealing and then painted on epoxy resin. The most recent one i added a carbon fiber wrap for durability.

The first attempt didn't last but later iterations are holding up well after about 40-50 dives to a max 100-105 ft. I have variants for the 105mm and 60mm lens ports.

Very nice! I’ve had the thought of 3D printed floats but that is next level fitting it to your port, nice work!

 

[davehicks]

Very nice! I’ve had the thought of 3D printed floats but that is next level fitting it to your port, nice work!

Thanks!

Printed Arm floats turn out to be an unfavorable comparison to Stix foam floats. I did try that! Stix ends up being lighter at the same volume and buoyancy a printed option can't match. This port float on the other hand is a better use case for a printed solution. Cleaner and better buoyancy than stix.