Atomic T1 DIN Conversion

[DarkFrog]

Hi All,
I called my LDS to get pricing info on converting my Atomic T1 1st stage from Yoke to DIN, and after talking to the tech for a while, he told me that the Brass Conversion Kit was $70 and the Titanium Kit was (!) $250. He wasn't sure if I needed to use the titanium kit since I have a titanium reg (which I got for the same price as brass would've been) or if it was okay to just use the brass kit.

I'm going to call atomic monday, but I figured I'd see if anybody here knew first.

-Justin

 

[android]

Yowza! I was thinking about getting the DIN kit for my B2, glad I don't have a Ti first stage!

 

[scubafanatic]

Hi Justin,
I've got a B1/T2, and recently installed a Stanless Steel Swivel kit on the 2nd stage......it was a whole lot cheaper than the Titanium one, the weight difference was trivial. I think the same logic will apply in your case............you'd be paying an extra $ 180 for 'sex-appeal' and a trivial weight reduction.

Karl

 

[FrankT]

You might be better off to just buy a Z1 first stage with the DIN already installed. When I was ordering my Z1 Octo, it was $175 for the second stage alone, and $250 for a complete Z1 setup. It seemed to me like an additional $75 for a Z1 first stage was a steal, so I ordered it setup as a DIN. So I now have a both a Yoke and DIN first stage. The brass DIN conversion should be more like $50.

 

[DarkFrog]

Hi Justin,
I've got a B1/T2, and recently installed a Stanless Steel Swivel kit on the 2nd stage......it was a whole lot cheaper than the Titanium one, the weight difference was trivial. I think the same logic will apply in your case............you'd be paying an extra $ 180 for 'sex-appeal' and a trivial weight reduction.

Karl

The reason I'm going to call is because there is concern that the extra $$$ isn't for sex appeal alone. The concern is an effect sometimes called thermoelectricity, which is when two different metals touch each other, and they are at different temperatures, a small current can be generated. A current could lead to a spark, and combine that with high pressure EANx and titanium, and you could be looking at a world of bad.

Frank T. - Purchasing another regulator will be something that I look into if I can't put the brass converter on this one. I'll probably put off any decisions like that until the spring when I'll have a degree and (hopefully) a real job.

 

[rescuediver009]

I would agree that the brass price should still be lower, but i think that buying the Ti one would just reduce weight in a place you wouldn't even notice it anyhow.

 

[scubafanatic]

.....I can't say I've ever heard of 'thermoelectricity' as being an issue in regulator design, so I'd bet serious money that won't be a factor in the decision after you get off the phone with Atomic.

I'm confident the brass converter is perfectly compatable with the T1, but even if you go with the Titanium one, given what you've already invested in the reg, I'd think you're still better off investing the $250 instead of starting all over with a new reg, especially if you want the replacement reg to be titanium too........you won't recover anything like what you originally paid if you were to 'E-bay' it.

Karl

 

[Charlie99]

.....I can't say I've ever heard of 'thermoelectricity' as being an issue in regulator design, so I'd bet serious money that won't be a factor in the decision after you get off the phone with Atomic.

Maybe not thermoelectricity, but galvanic corrosion of dissimilar metals is a real concern in the presence of saltwater. It doesn't take much corrosion on threads to seize them up.

 

[DarkFrog]

I just got off the phone with Atomic and they said I could use either brass or titanium without any problems. I'll probably bring it in for conversion sometime in November when my tank is up for VIP and it will be too cold around here.

-Justin