Aquashot 3e : newby needs help

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mddolson

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Scuba Instructor
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Location
Belleville,Ontario, Canada
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I 've been diving for 25 years,
I just got an Ikelite Aquashot 3e, with
Fuji Endevour 35 mm camera.(eBay)

1st time out... 200 ASA/ISO film
I got great shots on surface (in air)
But I just got bubbles underwater.

Am I doing something obviously wrong?
Lens looked clean and dry.

Duh?

Should I hesitate (not breath) when I snap a picture?

Some simple advise would be appreociated.

Mike
 
A couple of possibilities...
When you say you just got "bubbles" do you mean that the picture was blurred because you had a bubble on the lens, or do you mean your photos had lots of specks and spots and apparent "bubbles" in them?
Could you scan in a sample?
Here's a page of Aquashot 3e shots as an example of what you can do with this little point and shoot camera:
http://msnhomepages.talkcity.com/SupportSt/rickmurchison/bonaire00.html
If your problem is indeed lots of actual bubbles in your shots, then a combination of positioning and breath control are the solution. If that's not really the problem then if you can explain it a bit more then perhaps I can help.
Rick
 
Thanks for repying:

I just had a quick look at your photos.WOW!
They are spectacular!

My photos had lots of specks and spots and apparent "bubbles" in them?
They were also very dark, but I figured that was wrong choice of film (iso 200,came with camera) or just out of range.

Mike
 
Originally posted by mddolson
Thanks for repying:
My photos had lots of specks and spots and apparent "bubbles" in them?
They were also very dark, but I figured that was wrong choice of film (iso 200,came with camera) or just out of range.

Mike
Ok...
(1) specks & spots & "bubbles"
(a) distance - 9 times out of 10, beginners try to shoot way too far from the camera. For the 3e, for fish, you need to be able to get to within 2 to 4 feet of the subject. Remember that things appear closer under water, so a fish that appears to be three feet away is really four feet away. The further away the subject, the more "stuff" in the water will be in the picture. The eye/brain tends to ignore this stuff when we're looking at something, because we see what we want to see, and because the relative motion of stuff in front of or behind what we're looking at helps us to mentally block it out - but it's all picked up by the film, and it's all frozen.
(b) flash co-located with lens. The onboard flash is too close th the lens except for *very* close shots or *extremely* clean water. Because of this, every tiny little piece of junk reflects the flash back to the lens and makes a little "bubble" in your photo.
(2) darkness - almost certainly a case of "too far" from the objects.

Your next investment should be the slaved strobe for the 3e (if you get it off ebay make sure you get the flash deflector for the housing along with it).
In the meantime, get close, get close, get close. After you're used to getting close enough, then we can tackle angles, backgrounds and composition.
Good luck.
Rick
 
Thanks for the advise Rick.
The instructions for the case are misleading,
They say 4-6 feet for flash use.
I'll get closer (2-3 feet) for my next try.
Which may be Sunday. We're planning a day trip to
St Lawrence River (Brockville area) and there are some cool Fresh water sponges to test it on.
Suspension should be down to, the water is about 38°F
Thanks again

Mike
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/perdix-ai/

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