Apex XTX50 and XTX40 - which first stage to choose?

[KenGordon]

I may buy the ATX40 combo then, I'll save the money and spend the next 5 years understanding future needs that indeed I don't need right now.

Silly question, can the ATX40 and XTX40/50/200 be used with Nitrox? Or people usually use different regs for Nitrox?

I mostly buy ATX/DS4 combos as they are cheap - £174 last time and work the same as all the others. I prefer DST to DS4 as the hoses need less bending on a twinset (but only with the fifth port) but the DST takes more space and can impede access to the valves.

I have unsealed (US4?) regs on my rebreather and rinsing them is a pain. This is mostly because they are attached to a big lump of metal that would scratch my bath. However, the point is that the sealed ones do not let salt water inside and so don’t need you to rinse out salt via a hex key hole.

I have some XTX40s because you cannot buy an ATX/DST combo and I like the turrets. I also have one bailout/deco set set to have the hose come in from the left side of the 2nd stage, you need an XTX for that. I cannot tell the difference between an ATX and XTX in the water and it is not a consideration about what regs I use.

I used to think all modern regs were good. I have discovered that some have utterly useless plastic bits and some will freeflow sooner that seems reasonable in cold conditions. Apeks regs do not suffer from these two problems.

I use out the box brand new (Ie not o2 cleaned by a shop) ATX/DS4s with 80% as rebreather bailout. They will sell me a green one with a useless M26 connector but I am not buying that. I do try to treat the 80% with due regard.

 

[Centrals]

That remind me of one very important aspect on UST or US1/4.
Never ever mess around that "hexagonal key hole" with an allen key. That is solely to set the IP!!!! Turn it in will increase the IP and vice versa. Leave it alone unless you know what you are doing.

The proper name of that hexa key is"spring adjuster".

 

[Wibble]

The DST first stage is much nicer as a bailout/decompression stage as the hose routing is really good. I always include a 50cm/20" BCD hose on al bailout stages so I can connect that gas as off board diluent/oxygen in extremis.

DST regs are always more expensive than DS4 regs.

 

[Centrals]

The DST first stage is much nicer as a bailout/decompression stage as the hose routing is really good. I always include a 50cm/20" BCD hose on al bailout stages so I can connect that gas as off board diluent/oxygen in extremis.
DST regs are always more expensive than DS4 regs.

It is even comparable with FSR!
Apeks First Stages
DST(£225.00)
FSR(£249.00).


DST is for my 100 % and I use a 30" hose. Go over my left shoulder, round my neck and then over my right shoulder just like the 7' primary hose. My gum appreciate that.

 

[Tiago Machado]

Side question, but I suspect this will be controversial as well, but how often (for someone diving like 20 times a year) should a APEKS XT reg be serviced?

 

[rsingler]

Download @couv 's checklist and buy a $10 IP gauge.
Regulator Inspection and Checklist (Rev-8)
If your IP is stable and crisp with no creep, I wouldn't hesitate to go 5 years between service, though I'd get anxious after that, stories notwithstanding.

My second stage gets opened up and cleaned every year, if not more often. Apeks seconds develop a seat depression pretty easily. Every other year would be my max, annually better. You want these low pressure devices to work smoothly. Grit messes with that action. You don't have to do more than clean, though sometimes the $4 LP seat won't quite sit the same afterward and freeflow.

 

[Cdncoldwater]

Side question, but I suspect this will be controversial as well, but how often (for someone diving like 20 times a year) should a APEKS XT reg be serviced?

If you are eligible for free parts for life (we are in Canada) then it is supposed to be rebuilt every 2 years to keep that program/warranty valid.

 

[Centrals]

Read #116.
IP gauge is a must for every scuba diver to check the performance of the 1st stage regardless of brand. Do it before and after end of trip and make a record of it.
The seat on the 2nd stage is the weakest, depend on the usage, 20 dives a yr is nothing. Look after it properly, turn the adjusting screw all the way out gently until you feel resistance(there is a small metal pin inside the barrel) and leave it there for storage.
If you encounter a slight free flow from the 2nd stage, check the IP first!

 

[grf88]

Read #116.
IP gauge is a must for every scuba diver to check the performance of the 1st stage regardless of brand. Do it before and after end of trip and make a record of it.
The seat on the 2nd stage is the weakest, depend on the usage, 20 dives a yr is nothing. Look after it properly, turn the adjusting screw all the way out gently until you feel resistance(there is a small metal pin inside the barrel) and leave it there for storage.
If you encounter a slight free flow from the 2nd stage, check the IP first!

Shoosh! telling people to get and learn to use an IP gauge could significantly decrease the scuba equipment servicing business.

 

[Centrals]

Shoosh! telling people to get and learn to use an IP gauge could significantly decrease the scuba equipment servicing business.

LOL
I always wonder what is their opinion on scuba forum.
I imagine it is more hate than love!!!!