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Apeks XL4 servicing
- Thread starter KevinDnz
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Ditto me! I have DS4 manual but would prefer the proper XL4 one if possible?
Like above, I'm kinda new and Scubaboard won't allow me to DM you...
Ref XL4 first stage maintenance, the front cover is a pig to remove, and strap wrench does the job. I've no idea why they've gone for this design?
Also, removing the Venturi is a real pain without the removal tool. The Venturi securing lug is very easy to break.
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Tanks A Lot
Contributor
This may be of interest.
Thanks..
Thank you.
OMyMyOHellYes
Contributor
Special APEKS XL4 second stage face removal tool:
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GNIRTJS/ref=ewc_pr_img_1?smid=A39XRS6HPE2ORA&psc=1
One lives in the scuba workbench tool chest, the save-a-dive kit, and the kitchen doo-dad drawer.
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GNIRTJS/ref=ewc_pr_img_1?smid=A39XRS6HPE2ORA&psc=1
One lives in the scuba workbench tool chest, the save-a-dive kit, and the kitchen doo-dad drawer.
Well, I finally had to go out and buy an XL4 to see what all the discussion was about (and to get the faceplate off myself).
Where to start?
Tiny form factor that should tolerate low cracking effort if friction isn't excessive. But specification is 1.4-1.6". WTH??
The faceplate issue is a first-time-only problem. First time, you need to squeeze it "just so" at 11 & 5 o'clock to distort the faceplate a hair to disengage the plastic friction lock. SO FRUSTRATING until you get the hang of it. Or you can brute force it with a strap wrench or strong hands. It gets progressively easier as the contacts wear slightly.
The faceplate itself is a jigsaw puzzle only a plastics engineer could love. Lots of thin bits easy to break. Don't take it apart if you don't need to.
The valve assembly is a nice design. The poppet is also the balance chamber! Like the Deep6 Signature, that poppet is omni-directional, so you can't kill yourself by disengaging the lever feet. +1!
Much like the AirSource3 design (but in plastic), this makes for a very compact assembly that allows the small form factor. Friction is reasonably low, but the requirement to remove the lever every time you disassemble doesn't bode well for long term use/repeated service. I do not understand why spec cracking effort is 1.4. But it gets worse.
In order to disassemble, you need to flex a thick plastic tab on the Venturi vane just enough to clear the case, but not so much that you bend it. They have a stupid special tool that keeps a ham-fisted tech from breaking it, but the manual as much as admits that it won't last long.
I'd guess ten services before you have to replace it. Who designs this crap? But it gets worse.
The poppet assembly is compact assembly, with a tiny hex fitting in the end to adjust cracking effort. So far, so good.
But when you put things together and try to tune it, without their special tool, you have to repeatedly reinsert that bendable Venturi lever to seal the case, because of the notch for the lever. You can't seal it with your hand. You can partially insert the vane just short of where the locking tab goes in to check your adjustment, but that repeatedly stresses the vane.
And the special tool is nothing but a hex key with an o-ring sealing cylinder for the case. Not DIY-friendly.
Maddening.
But there's one more frustration to go...
When you try to add this reg to your setup, and you're maybe not 100% Apeks?
There's a 25% chance you can't even connect it to your LP hose!!!!
The heat sink nut extends OVER the nut attachment point. So unless you have an Apeks hose, or one with a narrow enough nut to fit inside that concavity, you can't add the reg to your setup.
Yeah, the OCEA/XL4 is small and lightweight. But it's cracking effort by spec is too high and you certainly can't service it for 35 years like a G250, because of all the thin plastic bits. This is progress?
Where to start?
Tiny form factor that should tolerate low cracking effort if friction isn't excessive. But specification is 1.4-1.6". WTH??
The faceplate issue is a first-time-only problem. First time, you need to squeeze it "just so" at 11 & 5 o'clock to distort the faceplate a hair to disengage the plastic friction lock. SO FRUSTRATING until you get the hang of it. Or you can brute force it with a strap wrench or strong hands. It gets progressively easier as the contacts wear slightly.
The faceplate itself is a jigsaw puzzle only a plastics engineer could love. Lots of thin bits easy to break. Don't take it apart if you don't need to.
The valve assembly is a nice design. The poppet is also the balance chamber! Like the Deep6 Signature, that poppet is omni-directional, so you can't kill yourself by disengaging the lever feet. +1!
Much like the AirSource3 design (but in plastic), this makes for a very compact assembly that allows the small form factor. Friction is reasonably low, but the requirement to remove the lever every time you disassemble doesn't bode well for long term use/repeated service. I do not understand why spec cracking effort is 1.4. But it gets worse.
In order to disassemble, you need to flex a thick plastic tab on the Venturi vane just enough to clear the case, but not so much that you bend it. They have a stupid special tool that keeps a ham-fisted tech from breaking it, but the manual as much as admits that it won't last long.
I'd guess ten services before you have to replace it. Who designs this crap? But it gets worse.
The poppet assembly is compact assembly, with a tiny hex fitting in the end to adjust cracking effort. So far, so good.
But when you put things together and try to tune it, without their special tool, you have to repeatedly reinsert that bendable Venturi lever to seal the case, because of the notch for the lever. You can't seal it with your hand. You can partially insert the vane just short of where the locking tab goes in to check your adjustment, but that repeatedly stresses the vane.
And the special tool is nothing but a hex key with an o-ring sealing cylinder for the case. Not DIY-friendly.
Maddening.
But there's one more frustration to go...
When you try to add this reg to your setup, and you're maybe not 100% Apeks?
There's a 25% chance you can't even connect it to your LP hose!!!!
The heat sink nut extends OVER the nut attachment point. So unless you have an Apeks hose, or one with a narrow enough nut to fit inside that concavity, you can't add the reg to your setup.
Yeah, the OCEA/XL4 is small and lightweight. But it's cracking effort by spec is too high and you certainly can't service it for 35 years like a G250, because of all the thin plastic bits. This is progress?
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