Apeks DIN Conversion kit - how tight should it be?

[NJdiver85]

had a Apeks DST first stage with yoke fitting. I had my LDS remove the yoke and install the DIN conversion kit. Everything was fine for a few dives. Then, when I last went to hook up the reg to my tank, air was leaking out. I removed the reg to find that the DIN fitting was loose! I could easily unscrew the DIN fitting from the LP port by hand! My question is this: how tight should I make this? Is simply screwing it back on and making it only hand tight sufficient? It looks like I can tighten it with a hex key, but how tight?

 

[Tibbs]

I changed my Apeks reg from A Clamp to din myself. I initially only did the din up hand tight and I found that after a few dives it would work itself loose and leaking. Nipping it up with an allen key sorted it out.

Remember, you have HP air going through it!

Chris

 

[Scubaroo]

Keep the correct size allen key / hex key in your save-a-dive kit as well.

 

[GDI]

tbg once bubbled...
had a Apeks DST first stage with yoke fitting. I had my LDS remove the yoke and install the DIN conversion kit. Everything was fine for a few dives. Then, when I last went to hook up the reg to my tank, air was leaking out. I removed the reg to find that the DIN fitting was loose! I could easily unscrew the DIN fitting from the LP port by hand! My question is this: how tight should I make this? Is simply screwing it back on and making it only hand tight sufficient? It looks like I can tighten it with a hex key, but how tight?

:doctor:

The APex Din Bolt should be tightened to 20-25 ftlbs. Ensure you are using the correct size allen key Apex are metric you should have 5-7mm allen in your save a dive kit.

 

[redacted]

The tightening torque in the spec for the DIN and the yoke connector (AP1407 & AP 1471) is 12 ft-lb. That's a bit lighter than most so I went back and checked it twice. The course and documentation were available on a couple web sites until the new Apeks distributer apparently put the screws to them - about the same time Diveinn dropped the Apeks service kits.

 

[cybordolphin]

I snugged mine up as tight as I could with an allen wrench. But I did have to retighten. If you tourqe on the first stage while it is on the tank.... it will break loose. I think you learn to be a bit careful when you are tightening the "wheel" on the din to tank, to only turn the wheel, and not break the DIN to first connection by turning/torquing the first stage.

I too am curious if it should be tightened to the point that it can never be accidentally loosened.

 

[MudDog]

awap is exactly correct...the Apeks manual states a torque rating of 12 ft. pounds. And yes this is less than what most other companies require at aprox. 20 ft lbs. or slightly more.

A normal torque wrench does not fit, but as is stated a 6 mm hex is required. If you do have access to a torque wrench(and not a "bar" torque wrench as these are inaccurate("bar" as in inexpensive parallel bar to handle wrench, not pressure measure)...but more like a Craftsman digitorque), try sticking a nut and bolt in a vice...("vice" the nut with the bolt head free) and torque the bolt to get a sense of 12 ft lbs. Do this a number of times very slowly. Try using your finger tips to tighten the bolt each time as your fingers are more sensitive to pressure and it will be your fingers that will be turning the hex key.

When comfortable, then "torque" your DIN. Remember chromed brass is soft. 12 ft. lbs. is like the point where the DIN meets the 1st stage and then a further "moderate" twist...NOT a knuckle whitening torque.

 

[Tm530]

I have found over the years that even when properly set up in the shop, a DIN fitting will often come loose in the field. Very often the DIN will be inserted to tightly into the valve, it may have dirty/slightly corroded threads, gets bumped in one direction or the other.....whatever. The first stage will be too snug to easily come off. With a little extra "effort" applied to free it, the DIN to regulator fitting will often come loose (by the way, making it even more of a pain to remove the damn thing from your tank valve). You should always carry the proper size allen wrench to re-tighten the fitting when needed (along with a good crescent wrench, something in a mid-size that will fit the yoke nut on most regs) . You also may want to check it once in a while. I have had to go so far as to use a strap wrench on a DIN handwheel to remove a stuck one from a tank valve, but it can usually be worked off with dry hands or with a rag or towel wrapped around it. Also, always make sure your DIN threads (reg and valve) are clean and salt and corrosion free.
Tom

 

[cybordolphin]

I think another important thing to check for before you install the DIN conversion, is to make sure that there is NOTHING in the first from the removal of the YOKE. Locktite and other particals of metal for instance can peel and fall into the first stage. I would be sure to inspect very carefully the first stage before you install the DIN conversion. Check for slivers of locktite or metal from the threads, etc..

JMO.