AOW gear?

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SteveTW

Contributor
Messages
147
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Location
Live in Browns Mills,NJ.
# of dives
50 - 99
I'm trying to get a head start on gear I'll be needing for my AOW course. Can anyone tell me the difference between a wreck reel and a "jersey" reel. Also, what type of light would be the best, not the most expensive, to buy to dive the Jersey coast wrecks with?
Thanks, Steve
 
Steve, not sure what specialites you are taking for your AOW so it is difficult to say. I'm also not a Jersey guy but I do a lot of wreck diving in NC FWIW. From your listing it appears that you will be doing wreck and (obviously) a night dive. A wreck reel is more like a standard cave reel but it usually comes with thicker line (#36 line instead of #24). I would just stick w/ #24, it is plenty strong. I would also get a "sidewinder" style reel as they are easier to use w/ a light and are less prone to jamming. A jersey upline is made of a much, much thicker rope that is usually biodegradable and therefore, ditchable upon use. I have never had to use one, but from what I understand, you only use that tool when the poop hits the paddle and you can't find the anchor. You tie it off to the wreck and ascend on it. That way you stay in the vicinity of the wreck for deco instead of drifting in open ocean. Whereas a wreck reel, or any reel, can be used as a navigational aid during any dive and is taken up as you make your way back to the anchor. As for the light, I would personally go w/ a HID can light. They are not cheap, but they have the best output over a conventional by far, allow you to do multiple things at once w/ a goodman, and are much better for communication. They require a bit more practice to use comfortably but they are well worth it.
 
really for AOW you dont need to buy any gear, your instructor should have everything. That way you can try the many items before you buy.

Personally I bought all my own gear though and for a light I got a pelican aquaking 8D, its bullet proof and cheap, and offers pretty good light considering the alternatives.

If you have never run a reel maybe a good spool is the way to start that way you cant jam it up or tangle things as easy. I own the dive rite 125ft spools and the holes are plenty big for large fingers with dry gloves or 7mm wet gloves and the line is bright orange so its easy to follow.

If your gonna jump into real wreck diving than I might save my cash for a back plate and wing and an aluminum 40 for deco/stage/pony.

some other considerations are free like practicing fin kicks and buoyancy, these practices need to be spot on for cave diving.

good luck
 
really for AOW you dont need to buy any gear, your instructor should have everything. That way you can try the many items before you buy.

Personally I bought all my own gear though and for a light I got a pelican aquaking 8D, its bullet proof and cheap, and offers pretty good light considering the alternatives.

If you have never run a reel maybe a good spool is the way to start that way you cant jam it up or tangle things as easy. I own the dive rite 125ft spools and the holes are plenty big for large fingers with dry gloves or 7mm wet gloves and the line is bright orange so its easy to follow.

If your gonna jump into real wreck diving than I might save my cash for a back plate and wing and an aluminum 40 for deco/stage/pony.

some other considerations are free like practicing fin kicks and buoyancy, these practices need to be spot on for cave diving.

good luck


I would not recommend a spool as a primary reel. You will likely be swimming more than 100-150 ft on several wrecks so you would be better off w/ a primary w/ at least 400' of line. Keeping couple of spools are not a bad idea, but use them for blowing bags or as a safetly reel.

I consider "real" wreck diving to mean deep wrecks and penetration. I agree w/ the BP/W but you should not be relying on a pony in this environment. If this is what you want to do get the training to do it and start diving doubles.
 
You may want to check out our Reel, the "Reeler" it is made by us in the USA and has a lot of features not found in other reels. It is very well built and was made because of the difficulty in using reels, such as guiding and tensioning the line while you reel it in.

Dennis
 
Thank you all for some good info. I'm not ready for doubles yet but did buy two HP 100's that I'll be using as singles. I plan on wreck diving not wreck penetration. I've got a lot of more training to do before I get into the "heavy" stuff. I did just sign up for a Nitrox class.
Thanks, Steve
 
When is your AOW course? I have spare wreck reels and Jersey uplines if you want to borrow them to try during the course. As far as lights, you're welcome to try my handheld or cannister light as long as I am not using one that weekend; give them a shot so you can get a feel for what you like before you buy one. I used a Halogen for years, but I have to say the HID's cut through the water up here better.

I bought way too many items because I "needed" them before I knew exactly what would work best for the style of diving I wanted to do. Some stuff that works well in warm, clear water can be anywhere from useless to downright dangerous in cold, dark water. I wish there had been a "try it before you buy it" program; there are items I would have likely purchased but never have, and certainly items which I could have avoided buying and then selling soon after for pennies on the dollar.
 
Some stuff that works well in warm, clear water can be anywhere from useless to downright dangerous in cold, dark water.

I've done all my diving in warm, clear water. But I plan to do some diving up north in '08. Would you mind sharing some things you've learned? I'd hate to show up for some big dives with dangerous gear.

Thanks.
 
I've done all my diving in warm, clear water. But I plan to do some diving up north in '08. Would you mind sharing some things you've learned? I'd hate to show up for some big dives with dangerous gear.

Thanks.

I'm sorry if I'm hijacking this thread; I believe that is considered bad etiquitte. I also hope I'm not missing any sarcasm in the above post... That said, I found that small, vital items like dive knives and reels, which were easy to work in the dive shop and were recommended for diving off the NJ coast, turned out to be a lot tougher to use in the water with cold water gloves or mitts on.

I lost my brand new, expensive knife the first time I tried to get it out of its sheath. I couldn't make the push button work with 1/4" gloves on. Fortunately, I had a tiny backup knife on my console to cut myself free of the fishing line I had gotten caught in. When I got back on the boat, I found the bigger knife had disappeared, leaving me with an empty sheath.

I soon figured out (by looking at what the experienced divers were using) that a big, simple knife kept in the sheath with a rubber ring around the handle was easier to use with gloves on, and cut just as well. I also found out that a point on a knife doesn't do you a lot of good unless you are hunting flounder (or other divers). I can use my flat-tip knife to pry with without worrying about the tip breaking off, and don't worry about missing and stabbing my drysuit with a pointy tip either...

Another problem was with the clips that items like dive reels come with. My first reel was a Dive Rite reel, with a small single-ended piston clip bolted to it. I could not undo that clip with gloves on. Almost everything I use that I clip off now has a large clip on it, and even those can be trouble when your hands are cold enough.

Much more recently, I purchased an LED cannister light as I was amazed at the light output when I saw it at a dive show. I tried it diving in Georgia, and it lit up the areas under the wreckage quite nicely. When I tried it in the NY mudhole, all it lit up was the particulate in the water, with a beam penetration of about 3'. My buddy only had a halogen light, but it had far greater penetration and less backscatter, albeit yellower in beam color. Fortunately, I was able to speak with the manufacturer and am working out an exchange of sorts. But it looked fantastic on land... While not dangerous per se, it made a huge difference in my enjoyment of the dive, and had I not been able to exchange it, I would have been stuck with a $600 light only good for clear water.

I think a lot of this could be avoided by just thinking about the conditions you are going to be diving in and doing some preplanning or practice with the exposure gear you will be using. Of course it is a lot easier to do that with some experience, which, as a new diver, I didn't have when I bought my first bunch of equipment. Early on, I had no one I could ask to borrow gear from to try before making a purchasing decision, and it seemed to take a long time for the experienced divers to warm up to a newbie, especially one decked out in gear none of them would use.
 
John56, thank you for that post! No sarcasm in my comment at all. I have been soliciting information from great lakes divers for months now in hopes of having a good experience when I head up there.

I have done some low vis dives down here, and I do dive dry, so I probably have an advantage over a purely tropical diver. But I don't use drygloves here (I'll be practicing with those soon), and I don't really have to manage with cold hands in our waters.

I did a test dive in a 55F pool Christmas eve, and I have a quarry dive planned for next month where the temps should be in the 40s. So that will give me a better idea of things.

If anyone else has tidbits to share, I'd love to hear them.
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/perdix-ai/

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