outofofficebrb
HARRO HUNNAYYY
For reference, in the photos I showed you, I had the manual strobes set to guide number 16 most of the time. There were a few where they were 22 but I've not had to get up to 32 or take the diffusers off yet.
Anybody tried the YS-D2 with the 120 diffuser and has test shots?
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For reference, in the photos I showed you, I had the manual strobes set to guide number 16 most of the time. There were a few where they were 22 but I've not had to get up to 32 or take the diffusers off yet.
I like the 120's better than the 100's, even though you lose a little more juice. But, I still find either set to be somewhat harsh, with a pretty dramatic fall off when you get to the edge rather than a smooth fade. For close focus WA work, it got tricky to position the strobes properly, or at least tricker than I thought it should be.
So, I took my 100's, since I use them less, cut out the entire center section, leaving only the center ring. Then I epoxied the ring to the inside of a cut down version of this: https://www.amazon.com/Gary-Fong-Li...ere+diffuser&qid=1556649050&s=gateway&sr=8-40. Basically I made my own versions of a small Gary Fong Lightsphere.
Yes, I lose even a little more power, but the light is much, much smoother and slightly warmer.
I've also experimented with 3-D printing a true dome. Here's a prototype. Subsequent versions have a thinner dome and better print settings, so a bit more translucent. Still playing with it.
View media item 207852
So, I took my 100's, since I use them less, cut out the entire center section, leaving only the center ring. Then I epoxied the ring to the inside of a cut down version of this: https://www.amazon.com/Gary-Fong-Li...ere+diffuser&qid=1556649050&s=gateway&sr=8-40. Basically I made my own versions of a small Gary Fong Lightsphere.
Yes, I lose even a little more power, but the light is much, much smoother and slightly warmer.
I've also experimented with 3-D printing a true dome. Here's a prototype. Subsequent versions have a thinner dome and better print settings, so a bit more translucent. Still playing with it.
View media item 207852
I have new YS D2's. Ran them on TTL with 100 diffusers. Seemed a little harsh in some shots with sandy bottom. Seemed perfect on other shots. (havent had time to process RAW photos yet, just looking in camera at them.) But will pointing them out from center line help if you're concerned about too much light? (Also, I love these strobes!)
Yes, strobe positioning will definitely help.
What I like about the wider diffusers is that strobe positioning, which is a bit of an art, is easier when you have softer, more even, light that has a more gradual fall off at the edges. Especially with subjects that are closer, if you're off on the strobe positioning even a little, it really shows. That's where big fat diffusers help. You lose a little power on big shots, but for 95% of my stuff it's like cheating. Almost like using a bounce flash or light box on land. Much less problem with shadows.
What I like about the wider diffusers is that strobe positioning, which is a bit of an art, is easier when you have softer, more even, light that has a more gradual fall off at the edges. Especially with subjects that are closer, if you're off on the strobe positioning even a little, it really shows. That's where big fat diffusers help. You lose a little power on big shots, but for 95% of my stuff it's like cheating. Almost like using a bounce flash or light box on land. Much less problem with shadows.
I'll add that it isn't just pointing them away from the centerline (the idea - generally - being to get just enough overlap at the center area to give you even illumination). That's a good default setting, but my strobes end up all over the place.
I keep my clamps just tight enough to hold the arms and strobes in position, but not so tight that I can't just reach up and move them wherever I need them. I will typically be moving them all over the place over the course of a dive. If the sand bottom is an issue, you might tilt them more up, or move them back further. I might move one on top pointing more down if I'm having shadow issues, or turn down the power on one but not the other. Even if you run TTL, on the D2s you can use the dial to adjust the output up or down by, IIRC, 3 stops.
If you see hotspots on your photos, you can usually adjust to fix it. Nothing kills a photo faster than blown out highlights or harsh shadows.
I keep my clamps just tight enough to hold the arms and strobes in position, but not so tight that I can't just reach up and move them wherever I need them. I will typically be moving them all over the place over the course of a dive. If the sand bottom is an issue, you might tilt them more up, or move them back further. I might move one on top pointing more down if I'm having shadow issues, or turn down the power on one but not the other. Even if you run TTL, on the D2s you can use the dial to adjust the output up or down by, IIRC, 3 stops.
If you see hotspots on your photos, you can usually adjust to fix it. Nothing kills a photo faster than blown out highlights or harsh shadows.
ReadyDiverOne
Contributor
Meant to attach these:
Very interesting. Two observations: first, several of your shots seem to be close to macro, so less light needed. And second, it's obviously a matter of taste and style, but the photos seem darker than I would prefer.
I really like the Ys-D2 with the 100s; enables me to take super wide angle shots as well as closer shots and still get great exposures, like these:
https://drive.google.com/open?id=1u3DY67v0SV2MO3EwJO64L8fhDaqcdBDc
https://drive.google.com/open?id=1437mPvFVn0q8K8BhpREon4X3Vzl2fB14
https://drive.google.com/open?id=1qVdAwBEMkJuO1JtXQM-KngEetd3mnIIa
https://drive.google.com/open?id=1cjscMppeiA9l3gPckYj6iZa9UE4E5PNd
Very interesting. Two observations: first, several of your shots seem to be close to macro, so less light needed. And second, it's obviously a matter of taste and style, but the photos seem darker than I would prefer.
I really like the Ys-D2 with the 100s; enables me to take super wide angle shots as well as closer shots and still get great exposures, like these:
https://drive.google.com/open?id=1u3DY67v0SV2MO3EwJO64L8fhDaqcdBDc
https://drive.google.com/open?id=1437mPvFVn0q8K8BhpREon4X3Vzl2fB14
https://drive.google.com/open?id=1qVdAwBEMkJuO1JtXQM-KngEetd3mnIIa
https://drive.google.com/open?id=1cjscMppeiA9l3gPckYj6iZa9UE4E5PNd
outofofficebrb
HARRO HUNNAYYY
I don't believe you saw the photos I was referencing. I showed the OP on my private Facebook account.
I think you are thinking of another user who shared their photos in this thread?ReadyDiverOne
Contributor
Ah, so sorry.
OP
Hi everyone thank you for your contribution
My take on the Sea and Sea YS-D2 is that once you use the 120 diffusers the power is the same of my Z240 and the beam angle slightly better but not that much so right now am not thinking of changing
My take on the Sea and Sea YS-D2 is that once you use the 120 diffusers the power is the same of my Z240 and the beam angle slightly better but not that much so right now am not thinking of changing
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