any tricks to buff out a scratch

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How deep is the scratch? Can you feel it with your fingernail? If so I think it'll be toast.

You can pickup some "Jewlers Rouge" from a local glass shop... Won't need that much. "Wax" it on like a car war, small circles over the scratch untill the scratch isn't visable. Now if it is a deep scratch and you are able to buff it out, you'll have to be carefull to not end up with a fish eye effect on the lens.

Now that is only for glass... If it's acrylic use some varasol on the plastic, removes minor and some serious scratches...

Best of luck
 
eab:
Topside is somewhat of an issue as I do snap photos of the dive site/boat, students prepping gear, etc., while the camera is in the housing. So I would like to be scratch free.

I'll test it out in the pool next class and see if the scratch disappears underwater. From initial tests in the sink, it looks like it will.

The question is .. which will bother me more: a $91 repair, or the inability to take topside photos while the camera is housed?

Votes anyone?

Thanks again for the comments/suggestions.

Eileen


Well, what kind of housing? Most oly housings are not that expensive, may get a backup? I can't judge well without seeing the scratch, and seeing the results of the scratch. Keep in mind that the farther you focus away from the lens, and the less depth of field you use the less noticable the scratch will be in results topside.

Photoshop and other editing tools also work wonders, and I seriously doubt your students are going to even notice a slight inperfection.

Post some results and we can then better judge the impact.

I have seen some rather disasterous results from those attempting to buff scratches out of glass. They basically traded an almost inperceivable imperfection to a buffed out front lens element that was permenantly damaged with the front lens coating removed, and buff marks in the glass. I have not seen what happens to plastic, but if anything I think it would be easier to damage. If your front housing element was glass, I doubt it would scratch that easily. I'm guessing acrylic.
 
Thanks for the depressing Nubble report Cecil. We were hoping to do a photography course this weekend. Guess not.

My latest thinking is that I'm going to try J.N. Phillips glass to see if they can fix the scratch. If not, I'll try the other suggestions. Can't make it worse, right? If all else fails, it's back to Olympus. While $91 is not easy to part with, it's far cheaper than the DSLR setup I want!

Eileen


Cecil:
I vote for fixing it. I'm with you I need the topside shots in the housing. Although post dive I normally do pull the camera out of the housing.

PS. I was at our favorite dive site (Nubble) today. The visibility was not very good (20' seas).
 
The scratch is discernable with the naked eye, and certainly can be felt with my nail. It's actually discolored, so that makes me think it's deeper than a quick buff will solve.

I think Ron is correct in his assumption that it's acrylic due to how easily it scratched. That said, I'll see what this varasol you mention is and add that to the tricks to try.

Bottom line, even if I make it worse, I can still send it to Olympus for the repair. May as well try some stuff first, bearing in mind the potential resultant fish eye problem you mentioned.

Thanks!

Eileen

GlazierB:
How deep is the scratch? Can you feel it with your fingernail? If so I think it'll be toast.

You can pickup some "Jewlers Rouge" from a local glass shop... Won't need that much. "Wax" it on like a car war, small circles over the scratch untill the scratch isn't visable. Now if it is a deep scratch and you are able to buff it out, you'll have to be carefull to not end up with a fish eye effect on the lens.

Now that is only for glass... If it's acrylic use some varasol on the plastic, removes minor and some serious scratches...

Best of luck
 

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