Any advice on diving in/around St. Thomas?

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KaliforniaDiver

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Some friends and I will be on St. Thomas in Charlotte Amalie next month (in the Windward Passage Hotel, if that's important) and we're interested in what dive sites anyone would recommend around there--boat or shore. Distance isn't necessarily that important, since we're planning on renting a car. We're even open to diving around the other islands and/or BVI as well, if it's worth it. We've got 3 days to play around with and would like to squeeze in as much diving as we can. Does anyone have any advice on the most worthwhile places to dive and the best dive boats and dive operations in the area? Any feedback will be greatly appreciated. Cheers! :)
 
Admiralty Dive Center operates right out of the Windward Passage. I have never dove with them, but I have heard good things about them. Much of their business is oriented toward the cruise ship crowd. Two operators that I have dove with and HIGHLY recommend are: St Thomas Diving Club for dive sites on the south (including Navy Barges and the Cartanza) and Red Hook Dive Center on the east (great reef diving around Grass Cay & Tunnels of Thatch). Both are top notch, customer oriented operations.
 
On St. Thomas, Coki Beach is a shore dive just a few minutes north (east?) of Red Hook. But it's pretty marginal, shallow and somewhat sparse. Instead I'd do a boat to the cays with either Red Hook or Dive In - they're just 20 mns. or less out.

St. John is easy, 15-20mins. from Red Hook on the East End - slightly longer from Charlotte Amalie. There's several car ferries from Red Hook - I think they stop around 6PM. People ferries from Charlotte Amalie run till Midnight. I was with some friends so I don't know about getting around Cruz Bay or other parts of St. John once there. Chris Sawyer's just relocated there after years on St. Thomas. I think Cruz Bay Watersports is still there also.

Lots of crazy drivers on St. Thomas...

If you're feeling adventurous, Tortola and diving the Rhone is possible with the right timing. It's the signature BVI wreck.

The ferry from Red Hook is either 35 or 50 minutes into Roadtown Tortola, some of the ferries into the West End may be even shorter. Ferries leave as early as 8AM some days with the last returns around 5-6PM on the weekends.

The Rhone is about 30-45mins. from Roadtown - I'm guessing - been to Roadtown and dove the Rhone but never both in the same day - so it should be possible to do a double and still get back in time for one of the later afternoon ferries. If I had to guess, I'd say the whole trip out and back from Tortola would be about 4 hrs. Note that Tortola is a really long island so pick your diveop according to proximity to where the ferry drops you - it's a long cab ride between the West End and Roadtown.

Most dives on the Rhone are a double as the front and back are far enough apart that they move between moorings. It's a great wreck dive, it was a huge ship - a lot of it is still intact. There's a swimthrough in the front - the Deep was filmed there - and the back is a big jumble of ship and machinery back to a huge prop that has a swimthrough between it and the 2 story rudder. Not very deep either I think the bow is 85' to the sand and the stern is less.

Saturday is the optimal day to do this as the last ferries are at 5:15/5:45 depending on your point of origin. Other days in the week it's much earlier.

You also need to clear customs both ways so plan that into your schedule. And bring your passport. I'm sure one of the BVI diveops know how to do this. You are going to burn a day for two dives though so that might not meet with your plans to squeeze in as much diving as possible - we do that also. For the Rhone, I would honestly make an exception, I dislike wreck diving but thought it was the best I've ever done.

One last gotcha - the ferry schedules are sometimes hit/miss. We were going to do an overnight to St. Croix but the ferry went out of business a few months before our trip. And now it's back. Even though it's only a 90min. ride there's not enough ferries for you to consider it as a day trip.

A couple of useful links to help plan:

Virgin Islands Ferry Schedule
Welcome to BVIScuba
 
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We just returned from St. Thomas and 6 dive days (12 dives) with Admiralty. Their dive shop is located just off the courtyard at Windward Passage. Laura & Duane are the owners and they were exceptional to work with!
 
If you're feeling adventurous, Tortola and diving the Rhone is possible with the right timing. It's the signature BVI wreck.

The ferry from Red Hook is either 35 or 50 minutes into Roadtown Tortola, some of the ferries into the West End may be even shorter. Ferries leave as early as 8AM some days with the last returns around 5-6PM on the weekends.

The Rhone is about 30-45mins. from Roadtown - I'm guessing - been to Roadtown and dove the Rhone but never both in the same day - so it should be possible to do a double and still get back in time for one of the later afternoon ferries. If I had to guess, I'd say the whole trip out and back from Tortola would be about 4 hrs. Note that Tortola is a really long island so pick your diveop according to proximity to where the ferry drops you - it's a long cab ride between the West End and Roadtown.

The ferry from Red Hook is either about 35 minutes to Tortola's West End (and you then need to take a taxi into town) or 50 minutes to Road Harbour. If you go with one of the dive ops in Road Town, I'd guess the Rhone is about a 25 minute boat ride. If you took a taxi all the way up to one of the East End operators they go across in about 15 minutes.

But most BVI dive ops leave for their morning dive about 8.30 - 9am, so you would need to catch a really early boat.

However, from memory, there are quite a few dive operators from St Thomas / St John who do the Rhone as a day trip.

Back to the OP's question - when I go to St Thomas I prefer to dive the wrecks - they have some good ones. To be candid, I always find the reefs a bit so-so. Even though geographically they are right next to the BVI reefs, to me they just seem much more bare.
 
However, from memory, there are quite a few dive operators from St Thomas / St John who do the Rhone as a day trip.
Recently I was looking for someone who does the Rhone from St. Thomas as a day trip for someone else but was not able to find anyone who does anymore. Which is why I suggested the ferry trip here. Granted it is a tight schedule but I was thinking the early Native sons boat might get them there early enough - I didn't know the departures out of Roadtown to the Rhone. Or if the diveops on Tortola waited for divers from St. Thomas regularly. It's why I suggested the OP contact them directly. And used guessing and guess...

We did a 2-tank there from VG with DiveBVI. Our second dive ended around 1PM or so. There were several other diveboats on the Bow moorings so I asked our DM and he said they were all from Tortola. So I assumed they were either off a cruise ship or doing a later two-tank.

Since you dive there, for future reference, do you know of someone who does do the Rhone from St. Thomas?

Here's the websites I checked. None indicated it as a dive they do:

Admiralty
Aqua Action
Blue Island
Chris Sawyer - now on St. John
Coki Beach Dive Club
Dive In
Red Hook - I believe in Sawyer's old location
Underwater Safaris
St Thomas Diving Club
 
Really? That surprises me - it used to be a big thing in the USVI. I am sure there is a dive shop in St John I dived with who said they did it - I'll see if I can dig it up (on the other hand, if you are catching an early ferry to St John you may as well stay on it and go to Tortola...).

You can definitely do it if you catch the early ferry from St Thomas (I do the reverse trip all the time), but a bit of a pain in the proverbials to get up that early on your vacation!
 
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