Flights: Delta planned for COS – ATL – CUN. A possible battery problem lead to a call to Delta to check on options since my layover was only about 70 minutes. A later flight out of ATL was not possible but they offered American to DFW then CUN (Plan B). It got to CUN about two hours later but that was a non-issue. No thoughts of “They are robbing me of two hours of vacation time.”
When done on the phone I noticed an hour later departure on the board. That would trigger Plan B so I walked up to the agent to verify the time. As he finished with the person in front of me he got a call. Definite battery replacement needed. At least two hour delay. So I asked for a change and within minutes I was confirmed for the American flight. A positive to the DFW stop was a nice brisket meal at Cousins BBQ. Yum yum.
It was raining in Cancun when we landed on the newest runway. I stepped off the plane into Terminal 3 at 412 PM. Walked through the halls looking for where to go. Just followed the Immigration signs. When I went down the stairs into the Immigration area I quickly surveyed the situation. Three groups of a dozen or two folks from the left to right....and one or two booths open to the right with just one tourist...so I went there. Out of Immigration at 415 PM.
The hold up was in the customs line I picked. Four of six lines were open. Still after doing that, taking a few pictures and buying my ADO ticket, I was outside by the bus location at 427 PM...fifteen minutes after I stepped off the plane. Carry-on only helped.
The 450 PM ADO bus made a short stop in Puerto Morelos near the Pemex station. Taxis were waiting there. Pulled into the Playa del Carmen bus station at 550 PM. Bought my ticket and was on the ferry with about five minutes to spare. The bus and ferry timing worked out very well.
Villa Aldora: Villa Aldora is a small hotel with a variety of rooms...from the low cost room I had to condo-like two level places with two bedrooms, kitchen and living room. It is reserved for divers using Aldora. Obviously a non-diving person is OK with a diver. It is waterfront (no real beach) with a dock for boat pickup/dropoff.
It is about a 20-25 minute walk to the ferry. About 60 peso taxi to Rock n Java near the Barracuda hotel. They have bikes to use but I never did. I worry about theft but never inquired if they had security chains.
It is a low key and quiet place. It may not be the best fit for everyone but it is well done as is typical for Aldora. One night the property manager hosted a great meal under the palapa. That was unexpected and it was a very nice evening.
Aldora: Aldora diving is Aldora. Large tanks. Long dives. Surface interval at a beach club (Mr Sanchos). New this year was using nitrox on the first dive as well. It does make a difference in not reaching computer limits on the second dive but I intend to maintain using air on the first dive. With their new tank filling facility, I had ZERO concerns about testing tanks for carbon monoxide.
Dive highlights include finding my first seahorse on a real dive. I have seen seahorses found by divemasters, but this was found by me. It was on Villablanca. A yellow-green seahorse on a similar color finger sponge (proper name unknown). Photo by Jeff Hauser. Thanks.
Also on that dive the current changed at some point. I was looking down for stuff when I noticed that the DM was facing south. We ended up surfacing almost where we entered the water.
What was amazing is that I either did not detect the change or it was so subtle that it was masked by my normal flailing style of diving. What happened to the water to make it change? Was there an upwelling at the change point? Did the water move out to the open ocean? I did not sense anything.
This was the first trip where I saw groups of trunkfish. There were just swimming around, changing colors and being trunk fishy. The DM stated that they were mating. The DM also found a baby trunkfish. It was a pudgy round thing and I am not sure that I could see its teeny mouth.
We saw a loggerhead turtle on two different dives...possibly the same one.
Not many lionfish were seen. A non-scientific estimate is that the numbers seen were similar or maybe a little less than early last year.
The one bit of excitement was at Palancar Caves. At some point on the ocean side of the reef I was surrounded by tiny bubbles. I looked around to see where people were and soon we exited stage right to the shore side. One last look over the edge to make sure that no one was sinking and we went inland to a shallower reef. Not a safety concern and I would like to experience it again and take a bit more time to evaluate what the water is doing. Perhaps enter it at different distances from the wall.
Again, just as with Villablanca, I did not notice the impending anamoly. Perhaps I was looking at the reef for little creatures. I vary my scan between looking for little things, wider scans for turtles and larger animals, periodic checking/counting of the group’s divers and moments of blissful zoning out and just doing nothing. Often this is when I am diving upside down which is great on a fast current site.
Post dive reflection is that I am not 100% aware of all that is occurring around me. Frankly, I doubt that I ever will. When I am looking for juvenile yellowtail damselfish, I am not looking at other divers or for turtles/eagle rays/etc. When I am scanning for big animals, I may drift past that seahorse.
As mentioned, I periodically count the other divers. I do not know how long it is between counts. Perhaps ten minutes. Maybe more. I pay closer attention to newbie divers. Not because I am legally obligated to do so, but just as an added set of eyes in case they need help. Recently, I have become in favor of newbies hiring a private divemaster for their first day in Cozumel. Not so much because Cozumel is unsafe, but there is much to learn to become comfortable with drift diving and a private DM can certainly speed that process.
My DM for the four days of diving was Liang. She is a very competent instructor/dive guide. She can find big creatures and small stuff like praying mantis shrimp and Jack Bennies. No doubt she would have found the seahorse on Villablanca but I had drifted ahead of her. As an aside, if you ever read about DMs having to herd cats on a dive, that is referring to people like me. I am here. Then there, up there or back there. As I told the other divers, if something happens to me, the proper response is: “It’s just Ron.”
Valladolid: After four days of diving I left the next day on the 700 AM ferry to Playa del Carmen (PDC). On the way over I met Andrea of the Humane Society. I identified myself and she asked for proof of my identity. I pulled out the item that proved my identity.
I wandered up to the 5th Ave ADO bus station and got some info on buses to Tulum, Xel-ha, and Xcaret. Then went outside and caught a 20 peso (~two minute) taxi ride to the Alternate ADO bus station on 20th Ave. The bus went south towards Tulum and turned west on the road to Coba without stopping at the Tulum bus station.
Upon arrival in Valladolid, I verified the colectivo location and tried to see a room in Hotel Zaci. Language barrier made that impossible so I walked to Tunich Beh, checked in and headed to the colectivo point to go to Ik Kil cenote. I arrived at that point around 1235-1240 PM. I finally got on a colectivo just after 105 PM so I may have missed one around 1230 PM.
Ik Kil cenote: This is a nice facility. Changing rooms. Restrooms. Solid walking surfaces. Restaurant. Gift shop. Lockable lockers (several dollars cost). Plus there are small rooms (cabanas?) in the area if you want to overnight there. The cenote itself is probably the best I have seen. Large roots extend from above. Several streams of water also fall from above. The following picture is taken from an observation point closer to the surface.
After swimming in it a while, I got out and drip dried. Back upstairs to change into dry clothes. Walk around a bit then headed out to the road to catch a colectivo back to Valladolid. That transportation option did not work well. It was twenty minutes or so before a colectivo went by. I waved but he did not stop. So with the next one in perhaps thirty minutes, I decided to try passing Oriente buses (no joy) or taxis (also no joy). Finally a couple leaving the cenote stopped and I got a ride with them. Perhaps a better option was to walk back to the ticket area and have someone call a taxi. Bottom line is that I do not consider colectivos a reliable way to get back to Valladolid.
Hotel Tunich Beh: I picked this over Hotel Zaci partly because I thought it would be quieter. It was quiet and cost $38 USD a night. It is not The Four Seasons but was just fine for a budget hotel. I believe that there are seven rooms, a pool and an area for breakfast which I missed due to my schedule.
Hotel en Valladolid, Yucatan Mexico Hotels, Chichen itza Hotels, Yucatan Hotels
Since it was Sunday, I went to the square around 800 PM looking for festivities similar to on Cozumel. The square is nice with lots of trees and bird dropping stains on the pavement but there was no open area similar to Cozumel. Walked over to a convenience store where I got a 600 ml water for six pesos and on the way back realized that they block off some of the streets and have a band and dancing in that area. Just as in Cozumel, it is a nice atmosphere. There was also a museum of sorts in that area so I went through it. I was tempted to go dance but decided that it was not something the good people of Valladolid should have to watch. So back to the hotel and rest.
Chichen Itza: The next morning I woke up at 638 AM...well past the alarm. I do not know what happened but I had to skip breakfast at a hotel on the west side of the square (close to the colectivo area). I catch the 700 AM colectivo which this time is not in the alley/parking lot near the Squizmos cafe but on the street opposite. It took about 45 minutes to get to Chichen Itza. The driver took me into the complex just outside the ticket area. I had to purchase two tickets. One for about 100 pesos and the other for 70 pesos. I think I could have paid the ~100 peso ticket in USD but the other window had a sign suggesting that they do not take USD. No problems. I use pesos in Mexico.
I enter the site about 801 AM. This was a good way to go. It was much cooler than the first time I drove there on a day trip in December. The vendors were setting up for the duration of my stay there and I was only approached by one guy at 815 AM near El Castillo. Of course what trip report is complete without an artistic photo?
I was done by 930 AM so went outside and caught a taxi for 250 pesos. Quick shower and pack and I catch the 1125 AM bus to Cancun. At the Cancun bus station I take more pictures. The old billboard time schedules are replaced with a tv screen system. I walk over to the colectivo area just north of the Comercial Mexicana. Then back towards the ADO area and check on the Playa Express option just across the street from the bus station exit. They say they will stop at my final hotel....Courtyard by Marriott. Cost was twenty pesos and they stopped at a safe turnout at the entrance to the hotel.
Courtyard by Marriott: Check in and soon I am by the pool relaxing in the shade. The Courtyard is a nice facility with a business center with free computers, possibly wifi in the rooms, pool, restaurant. Check the website for other amenities.
Courtyard Cancun: Cancun Business Hotels
The next morning I eat breakfast there. Cook to order eggs/omeletes. A nice variety of items. One minor point is that the potato wedges were on the cool side but overall it was fine. I took the 800 or 830 AM shuttle to the airport and asked to be dropped off at Terminal 2 to check on things there and take pictures. There is a guarded gate as you go from the Terminal 2 departure area to the ADO bus area. The woman asked “Ahhh day oh (ADO)” and I said Terminal 3 and walked on through. There is a ADO ticket counter outside near the end of Terminal 2 (opposite end of the building than where you exit the building). Also there are counters for Yellow Transfers (a taxi), Greenline, and some other taxi service.
I continued on to Terminal 3 and there is additional fencing in the area along with a turnstile by the building. I went though it fine but I have to wonder if walking between Terminals 2 and 3 will become impossible at some point. Most people will use the airport inter-terminal shuttle system anyway.
I check in for my Delta flight and do more observing of stuff, finally going upstairs through security. The rest of the trip was mundane and uneventful.
Conclusions/observations/pearls of wisdom:
1) Aircraft can have mechanical problems. Know your options. React quickly if your flight is canceled/delayed and don’t get upset. Stuff happens. Make the best of things you cannot control.
2) I realize that I am not 100% cognizant of everything around me while diving. I also accept that it is impossible to be that aware...at least for me.
3) I will use air on the first dive so my maximum depth is not as restricted. It would not be desirable to have to chase after someone in a downcurrent while breathing nitrox 32.
4) Using colectivos to get back to Valladolid is not advised. Use of colectivos period there could be considered less desirable due to their speed (estimated around 100 kph).
5) While I am very pleased with ADO bus service, if I had to do this same trip again, a rental car might be used for the convenience around Valladolid. Otherwise, arrange round trip service to/from excursions using a taxi.
6) I had the Mayan Adventure map/guide from cancunmap.com. It has been very useful for planning trips such as this one and the rental car trip to Ek Balam last year.
7) I knew of three scubaboard folks diving with Aldora while I was there. I met two of them. I never met Nitrox624 but did meet wmperry instead.
8) People sometimes ask if you are a tourist or a traveler. Supposedly a traveler is mo better. I am just a guy who goes out and does stuff.
When done on the phone I noticed an hour later departure on the board. That would trigger Plan B so I walked up to the agent to verify the time. As he finished with the person in front of me he got a call. Definite battery replacement needed. At least two hour delay. So I asked for a change and within minutes I was confirmed for the American flight. A positive to the DFW stop was a nice brisket meal at Cousins BBQ. Yum yum.
It was raining in Cancun when we landed on the newest runway. I stepped off the plane into Terminal 3 at 412 PM. Walked through the halls looking for where to go. Just followed the Immigration signs. When I went down the stairs into the Immigration area I quickly surveyed the situation. Three groups of a dozen or two folks from the left to right....and one or two booths open to the right with just one tourist...so I went there. Out of Immigration at 415 PM.
The hold up was in the customs line I picked. Four of six lines were open. Still after doing that, taking a few pictures and buying my ADO ticket, I was outside by the bus location at 427 PM...fifteen minutes after I stepped off the plane. Carry-on only helped.
The 450 PM ADO bus made a short stop in Puerto Morelos near the Pemex station. Taxis were waiting there. Pulled into the Playa del Carmen bus station at 550 PM. Bought my ticket and was on the ferry with about five minutes to spare. The bus and ferry timing worked out very well.
Villa Aldora: Villa Aldora is a small hotel with a variety of rooms...from the low cost room I had to condo-like two level places with two bedrooms, kitchen and living room. It is reserved for divers using Aldora. Obviously a non-diving person is OK with a diver. It is waterfront (no real beach) with a dock for boat pickup/dropoff.
It is about a 20-25 minute walk to the ferry. About 60 peso taxi to Rock n Java near the Barracuda hotel. They have bikes to use but I never did. I worry about theft but never inquired if they had security chains.
It is a low key and quiet place. It may not be the best fit for everyone but it is well done as is typical for Aldora. One night the property manager hosted a great meal under the palapa. That was unexpected and it was a very nice evening.
Aldora: Aldora diving is Aldora. Large tanks. Long dives. Surface interval at a beach club (Mr Sanchos). New this year was using nitrox on the first dive as well. It does make a difference in not reaching computer limits on the second dive but I intend to maintain using air on the first dive. With their new tank filling facility, I had ZERO concerns about testing tanks for carbon monoxide.
Dive highlights include finding my first seahorse on a real dive. I have seen seahorses found by divemasters, but this was found by me. It was on Villablanca. A yellow-green seahorse on a similar color finger sponge (proper name unknown). Photo by Jeff Hauser. Thanks.
Also on that dive the current changed at some point. I was looking down for stuff when I noticed that the DM was facing south. We ended up surfacing almost where we entered the water.
What was amazing is that I either did not detect the change or it was so subtle that it was masked by my normal flailing style of diving. What happened to the water to make it change? Was there an upwelling at the change point? Did the water move out to the open ocean? I did not sense anything.
This was the first trip where I saw groups of trunkfish. There were just swimming around, changing colors and being trunk fishy. The DM stated that they were mating. The DM also found a baby trunkfish. It was a pudgy round thing and I am not sure that I could see its teeny mouth.
We saw a loggerhead turtle on two different dives...possibly the same one.
Not many lionfish were seen. A non-scientific estimate is that the numbers seen were similar or maybe a little less than early last year.
The one bit of excitement was at Palancar Caves. At some point on the ocean side of the reef I was surrounded by tiny bubbles. I looked around to see where people were and soon we exited stage right to the shore side. One last look over the edge to make sure that no one was sinking and we went inland to a shallower reef. Not a safety concern and I would like to experience it again and take a bit more time to evaluate what the water is doing. Perhaps enter it at different distances from the wall.
Again, just as with Villablanca, I did not notice the impending anamoly. Perhaps I was looking at the reef for little creatures. I vary my scan between looking for little things, wider scans for turtles and larger animals, periodic checking/counting of the group’s divers and moments of blissful zoning out and just doing nothing. Often this is when I am diving upside down which is great on a fast current site.
Post dive reflection is that I am not 100% aware of all that is occurring around me. Frankly, I doubt that I ever will. When I am looking for juvenile yellowtail damselfish, I am not looking at other divers or for turtles/eagle rays/etc. When I am scanning for big animals, I may drift past that seahorse.
As mentioned, I periodically count the other divers. I do not know how long it is between counts. Perhaps ten minutes. Maybe more. I pay closer attention to newbie divers. Not because I am legally obligated to do so, but just as an added set of eyes in case they need help. Recently, I have become in favor of newbies hiring a private divemaster for their first day in Cozumel. Not so much because Cozumel is unsafe, but there is much to learn to become comfortable with drift diving and a private DM can certainly speed that process.
My DM for the four days of diving was Liang. She is a very competent instructor/dive guide. She can find big creatures and small stuff like praying mantis shrimp and Jack Bennies. No doubt she would have found the seahorse on Villablanca but I had drifted ahead of her. As an aside, if you ever read about DMs having to herd cats on a dive, that is referring to people like me. I am here. Then there, up there or back there. As I told the other divers, if something happens to me, the proper response is: “It’s just Ron.”
Valladolid: After four days of diving I left the next day on the 700 AM ferry to Playa del Carmen (PDC). On the way over I met Andrea of the Humane Society. I identified myself and she asked for proof of my identity. I pulled out the item that proved my identity.
I wandered up to the 5th Ave ADO bus station and got some info on buses to Tulum, Xel-ha, and Xcaret. Then went outside and caught a 20 peso (~two minute) taxi ride to the Alternate ADO bus station on 20th Ave. The bus went south towards Tulum and turned west on the road to Coba without stopping at the Tulum bus station.
Upon arrival in Valladolid, I verified the colectivo location and tried to see a room in Hotel Zaci. Language barrier made that impossible so I walked to Tunich Beh, checked in and headed to the colectivo point to go to Ik Kil cenote. I arrived at that point around 1235-1240 PM. I finally got on a colectivo just after 105 PM so I may have missed one around 1230 PM.
Ik Kil cenote: This is a nice facility. Changing rooms. Restrooms. Solid walking surfaces. Restaurant. Gift shop. Lockable lockers (several dollars cost). Plus there are small rooms (cabanas?) in the area if you want to overnight there. The cenote itself is probably the best I have seen. Large roots extend from above. Several streams of water also fall from above. The following picture is taken from an observation point closer to the surface.
After swimming in it a while, I got out and drip dried. Back upstairs to change into dry clothes. Walk around a bit then headed out to the road to catch a colectivo back to Valladolid. That transportation option did not work well. It was twenty minutes or so before a colectivo went by. I waved but he did not stop. So with the next one in perhaps thirty minutes, I decided to try passing Oriente buses (no joy) or taxis (also no joy). Finally a couple leaving the cenote stopped and I got a ride with them. Perhaps a better option was to walk back to the ticket area and have someone call a taxi. Bottom line is that I do not consider colectivos a reliable way to get back to Valladolid.
Hotel Tunich Beh: I picked this over Hotel Zaci partly because I thought it would be quieter. It was quiet and cost $38 USD a night. It is not The Four Seasons but was just fine for a budget hotel. I believe that there are seven rooms, a pool and an area for breakfast which I missed due to my schedule.
Hotel en Valladolid, Yucatan Mexico Hotels, Chichen itza Hotels, Yucatan Hotels
Since it was Sunday, I went to the square around 800 PM looking for festivities similar to on Cozumel. The square is nice with lots of trees and bird dropping stains on the pavement but there was no open area similar to Cozumel. Walked over to a convenience store where I got a 600 ml water for six pesos and on the way back realized that they block off some of the streets and have a band and dancing in that area. Just as in Cozumel, it is a nice atmosphere. There was also a museum of sorts in that area so I went through it. I was tempted to go dance but decided that it was not something the good people of Valladolid should have to watch. So back to the hotel and rest.
Chichen Itza: The next morning I woke up at 638 AM...well past the alarm. I do not know what happened but I had to skip breakfast at a hotel on the west side of the square (close to the colectivo area). I catch the 700 AM colectivo which this time is not in the alley/parking lot near the Squizmos cafe but on the street opposite. It took about 45 minutes to get to Chichen Itza. The driver took me into the complex just outside the ticket area. I had to purchase two tickets. One for about 100 pesos and the other for 70 pesos. I think I could have paid the ~100 peso ticket in USD but the other window had a sign suggesting that they do not take USD. No problems. I use pesos in Mexico.
I enter the site about 801 AM. This was a good way to go. It was much cooler than the first time I drove there on a day trip in December. The vendors were setting up for the duration of my stay there and I was only approached by one guy at 815 AM near El Castillo. Of course what trip report is complete without an artistic photo?
I was done by 930 AM so went outside and caught a taxi for 250 pesos. Quick shower and pack and I catch the 1125 AM bus to Cancun. At the Cancun bus station I take more pictures. The old billboard time schedules are replaced with a tv screen system. I walk over to the colectivo area just north of the Comercial Mexicana. Then back towards the ADO area and check on the Playa Express option just across the street from the bus station exit. They say they will stop at my final hotel....Courtyard by Marriott. Cost was twenty pesos and they stopped at a safe turnout at the entrance to the hotel.
Courtyard by Marriott: Check in and soon I am by the pool relaxing in the shade. The Courtyard is a nice facility with a business center with free computers, possibly wifi in the rooms, pool, restaurant. Check the website for other amenities.
Courtyard Cancun: Cancun Business Hotels
The next morning I eat breakfast there. Cook to order eggs/omeletes. A nice variety of items. One minor point is that the potato wedges were on the cool side but overall it was fine. I took the 800 or 830 AM shuttle to the airport and asked to be dropped off at Terminal 2 to check on things there and take pictures. There is a guarded gate as you go from the Terminal 2 departure area to the ADO bus area. The woman asked “Ahhh day oh (ADO)” and I said Terminal 3 and walked on through. There is a ADO ticket counter outside near the end of Terminal 2 (opposite end of the building than where you exit the building). Also there are counters for Yellow Transfers (a taxi), Greenline, and some other taxi service.
I continued on to Terminal 3 and there is additional fencing in the area along with a turnstile by the building. I went though it fine but I have to wonder if walking between Terminals 2 and 3 will become impossible at some point. Most people will use the airport inter-terminal shuttle system anyway.
I check in for my Delta flight and do more observing of stuff, finally going upstairs through security. The rest of the trip was mundane and uneventful.
Conclusions/observations/pearls of wisdom:
1) Aircraft can have mechanical problems. Know your options. React quickly if your flight is canceled/delayed and don’t get upset. Stuff happens. Make the best of things you cannot control.
2) I realize that I am not 100% cognizant of everything around me while diving. I also accept that it is impossible to be that aware...at least for me.
3) I will use air on the first dive so my maximum depth is not as restricted. It would not be desirable to have to chase after someone in a downcurrent while breathing nitrox 32.
4) Using colectivos to get back to Valladolid is not advised. Use of colectivos period there could be considered less desirable due to their speed (estimated around 100 kph).
5) While I am very pleased with ADO bus service, if I had to do this same trip again, a rental car might be used for the convenience around Valladolid. Otherwise, arrange round trip service to/from excursions using a taxi.
6) I had the Mayan Adventure map/guide from cancunmap.com. It has been very useful for planning trips such as this one and the rental car trip to Ek Balam last year.
7) I knew of three scubaboard folks diving with Aldora while I was there. I met two of them. I never met Nitrox624 but did meet wmperry instead.
8) People sometimes ask if you are a tourist or a traveler. Supposedly a traveler is mo better. I am just a guy who goes out and does stuff.
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