Advice on servicing my own regs....

[TXDude]

I went to the LDS that services Scubapro in my area and I was shocked at how much it was going to cost me to service my MK16 R390 R190octo ($125+). Hence, I'm thinking of doing my own servicing on my equipment. I can get the kits for all my equipment via Ebay for $50. According to Ebay, the annual service kit for R390 and R190 are the same kit. The kit for the MK16 is the most expensive.

Am I biting off more than I can chew? I am fairly mechanically inclined so the actual work doesn't intimidate me. However, I am worried that I may need some fancy tools that will make servicing my own regs not cost productive. Are the tools that costly? Which tools do I definitely need? Do I need to have dive tank to service them? I have a compressor in my garage.

I went to the on-line and printed off the the service manuals for each regulator. It doesn't look very complicated.

I live in Dallas so I am debating on whether taking the kits to Scuba Toys and asking them to service them even though they don't rep Scubapro anymore.

Is it really worth it to service them yourself?

Thank you so much in advance,

 

[Kupu]

It is not for everybody, but if you are inclined, I certainly think it is worth it. Not only because it can save money on rebuilding the regs, but the real benefit as I see it is learning how they go together and being able to make adjustments to maintain good performance in between the rebuilds.

Total cost on the tools I use to service my MK16 w/ S550 and R190 is less than $150. I use a couple creative ways to get around needing many special made tools. After the first time it is easy, but I did get hung up on a couple small issues the first time around which added a couple hours to the job. I don't think you will be able to get by without having a tank to tune and test the regulators out after they have been rebuilt.

There are experienced and qualified people here who probably can give great advice if you have specific questions while doing the job.

 

[Couv]

TX Dude welcome to the DIY club.

First decide if your regulator really needs servicing.....see this thread:
http://www.scubaboard.com/forums/regulators/260452-regulator-checklist-inspection.html

Here are a few links to questions similar to yours:
http://www.scubaboard.com/forums/regulators/250105-regulator-self-service.html

http://www.scubaboard.com/forums/regulators/266719-scubatools-dual-drive-adjusting-tool-scubapro-balanced-chamber-tool.html

And here is my standard cut and paste advice:

Both service manuals usually discussed here are great ; Vance Harlow's "SCUBA Regulator Maintenance …." http://www.airspeedpress.com/newregbook.html and the Scuba Tools book, "Regulator Savvy" http://www.scubatools.com/ are well worth the money. I own both and recommend getting one of each. If you are dead set on getting only one, then Vance's is a little more suitable for the DIY guy while the ScubaTools book is more suitable for the shop worker. ScubaTools has some pretty decent tools too, so if you order from there pay a few extra bucks and get the bullets, spanners, etc that you need with your first order and save on shipping. After just one or two seasons of servicing your own gear, you will have recovered your investment.

​

Here are a couple of websites with tons of regulator specific manuals:

Regulator manuals

http://www.frogkick.dk/manuals/

Good luck,

Couv

 

[NorthWoodsDiver]

I don't have your specific regs but since it's scubapro gear you're probably best off picking up the tools listed on the manuals (frogkick has them). Some can be made if you have access to machining tools or even just a drill press. If your regs are yoke you will need a few extra tools too.

But to get the job done at a bare minimum you'll want a good vice, first stage tool that threads into the ports to safely secure the reg in a vice, a torque wrench w/ sockets and allen keys, IP gauge, some o-ring picks, and an adjustable pin spanner (depending on the model). There are some model specific items and off hand I' not sure what you'll need but it will say right in the manual.

Things like an ultrasonic cleaner and some adjustment equipment will make your life easier but they are the spendy items and not totally necessary.

You can't beat vince's book and a set of the proper manuals so I would start there.

 

[DevonDiver]

There's no harm in having a go. If you are technically minded, then it is quite achieveble.

Just make sure you also obtain copies of the specific service manuals for the regulator you want to service. With some models there are specific settings (IP) that you must get right.

Most of the service manuals are available on the internet, from one source or another... so an accurate google search should turn them up.

Just one piece of advice.... don't take chances. If you have any doubts about the work you've done on the regs...get a qualified second opinion, before diving with them. On your first few dives with the newly serviced regs... be cautious and conservative. Optimally, have a redundany air source just in case...or failing that, just stay extra close to your buddy. Assume they might have a problem, and plan your dive accordingly.

You will probably need a tank for testing/setting the regs. Also be aware, that the compressor you use to fill a tank needs to produce clean, dry, filtered air. You cannot use a general industrial compressor for filling tanks (without the appropriate modifications).

 

[sambolino44]

OK, I just got through with my first service on my first stage, and here are a few things I learned:

You really want a good sturdy work bench and a good bench vise, not the wobbly cheap crap I have. The reg slipped in the vise just as I was reaching max torque on the end cap, the drag link socket slipped out, and now I have a screwed-up end cap on my reg. It's OK for now, but I won't be able to torque it down again, so I have to find a replacement part before I can service it again. All because I couldn't get a good steady grip on it.

Go through the manual and make sure you have all the tools you need before you begin. I wasn't very thorough with that and it wasn't until I had the thing all taken apart that I found out I need a very-hard-to-find 34mm crowfoot wrench to torque the body back together. The thing sat on my bench for a month waiting for that one tool. Luckily I put everything away in an orderly fashion so I could pick up where I left off.

Somebody mentioned that you'll want a tank available to do the settings after the assembly. My particular model called for setting the IP with a tank at 500 psi, then setting it again with a tank at 3000, so I needed two tanks.

You're going to want a well-lit work area and a good magnifier. I thought I had a good work bench all set up until I started the work, and then I found out how far off I was. It's tempting to go "yeah, yeah, yeah" when they say you want a large, flat, clean, organized work area, but you'll probably wish you had it once you get started.

Some of the tools recommended in the manual you can do without, but some of the simple ones you really need, and you may not be able to tell which is which until you get started. I got a lot of use out of a modified bamboo chopstick; that wasn't in the book.

So, all in all, it was actually easy to do the re-build and set the IP. But some of the basic stuff came up and bit me in the butt when I didn't expect it.

Can't wait to see how it goes when I do the second stages.

Oh, and don't forget, if you're going to start doing your own service on your regs, you'll probably want to do your BC inflator valve and purge valve, your drysuit inflator and purge valves, the valves on the BC and drysuit inflator hoses, and the swivel on your pressure gauge, too.

 

[DA Aquamaster]

Doing it right will require an investment in tools - maybe $200 over and above normal hand tools. The Mk 16 in particular is muhc easier to service if you have a coupole of specialty tools for it.

I read the statement above and I have to say I seldom use a vice. If I do it is to hold a specially made wooden box to loosly hold the reg and prevent it from turning - but that is only needed in cases where something is extremely stuck.

99.9% of the time, I torque various parts (yoke retainers, etc) with the reg on the bench (or if in the field, in my lap) with a fisrt stage wrench screwed into one of the LP or HP ports. If I can't get enpough leverage, option two is to place it on the carpeted floor, using common sense to properly orient the wrenches, reg, etc then step on it to secure it in place, then apply torque with the wrench. Only when that fails do I go to the bother of bringing out the big guns.

So a big vice is not really needed, and a heavy and stable bench? Not so much. The average kitchen counter is fine and the average coffee table will suffice once you learn technique versus brute force.

Having the right tools however is extremely important as it is very hard to a do the job right and accomplish it without lots of sweat, slipping and cursing if you lack the proper tools.

 

[halocline]

Somebody mentioned that you'll want a tank available to do the settings after the assembly. My particular model called for setting the IP with a tank at 500 psi, then setting it again with a tank at 3000, so I needed two tanks.

No you didn't. Just connect the reg to a full tank, check the IP, turn off the valve, then bump the purge a few times until the SPG reads whatever pressure at which you want to check the IP. Piece of cake.

I find that the magnifier is pretty important. I use a 16X jeweler's loupe to inspect piston and orifice edges. It's amazing what you can see with those things.

The R390 and 190 kits are in fact the same. Actually, you don't really need the kit for those regs, just a simple puck LP seat (Awap makes them and might sell a few for a few pennies) and the nylock nut, which you can get at Mcmaster-Carr, or just use some nail polish to set the nut in place. There are a couple of standard o-rings, I forget what sizes for that reg, but it's easy to find out. The only tricky one is the metric size o-ring for the SP "superflow" LP hose swivel.

 

[BDub]

Most of my regs are Apeks, and I do service my own regs.

However, though I own 8 sets, I didn't start servicing my regs for economical reasons. For me, it was partly due to the fact that a) my reg tech has pretty much left the industry and b) my dives are getting more and more aggressive. My reasons were more for my own peace of mine. I didn't trust anyone else to service my regulator.

If you bought your reg from an authorized retailer, and it has a lifetime warranty, you'll probably save a few bucks a year, but if you consider the front end investment to do it properly (ultrasonic cleaner, spanners, adjustment tool, ip gauge, etc), the few bucks you may save each year will take years for you to recoup the initial investment.

For me, I simply started with my single tank reg. I bought all the necessary tools and using the manual, I opened it up and spent time learning how it actually works. From there, I did the necessary cleaning, then re-assembled, again using the manual. After adjusting to the specs, I did a very simple, shallow dive. I have a fairly mechanical inclination, so my first attempt was successful.

On my second attempt, I forgot to put in a piece. When I turned the tank on, I was immediately able to identify what the problem was, not because I checked the troubleshooting section, but because I took the time to learn and understand how it actually worked.

I've been servicing my own regs for 3 or so years now, and honestly, I don't know that I've saved any money.

Like anything else in diving, I wouldn't make this decision based solely on economics. First of all, it's a large investment of money and time on your part. Second, it's your life support. That's not an area to try to cut corners.

 

[redacted]

The down side of DIY reg service is it removes the biggest barrier to acquiring and diving a fleet of regulators; a few for DIN valves, and a few more for yokes, a few novelty rigs just for kicks, and then a few more you rarely or never use but couldn't pass up at the price.

I wrap my 1sy stages with cardboard to protect the chrome and then use a vise to hold it loosely to get to the yoke/din retainer but I like DAs suggestion of standing on the reg on the carpet.