Advice on Rangiroa and Fakarava for beginner

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glac13

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My fiance and I are planning to go to French Polynesia for our honeymoon in early July this year. As you probably all know, FP is expensive and this is most likely a once-in-a-lifetime thing. From reading other threads on this board, it sounds like the best, most dramatic diving is in Fakarava and Rangiroa - everything I've read about it make it sound really awesome.

The problem is that we are both fairly new to diving - we are PADI OW certified (which was no fun in 60 degree water in Monterey), and we just got back from a few days of diving at the Barrier Reef, which was fun and really sold us on diving, but not particularly challenging (max depth 19m, no noticeable current). We feel pretty comfortable in the water, but are not familiar with the challenges that it sounds like are present in the Tuamotus (current, depth). But you have to learn sometime, right?

Two questions:
1) It is completely out of the question to dive the passes in the Tuamotus at our experience level?

2) If we can't do the passes, is it still worth going if we have to do more beginner-level dives?

Thanks in advance for any guidance you can provide.
 
Our first day of diving in Rangiroa was all on the outer reef. The dives weren't deep, and the reefs were quite simply the most beautiful I have seen anywhere -- vibrant with color and health, and with fish populations so dense you felt like you had to push them away to swim forward. Because our group was experienced, we did swim out into blue water to look for pelagics, but you don't have to do that, if you aren't comfortable with your buoyancy control in midwater.

The second day, we did the Tiputa Pass drift, and it was really quite an easy dive, although again, one must be comfortable with midwater buoyancy control. Although you are moving rapidly, you are really unaware of it; the whole group moves at the same speed, so the only thing that tells you that you are drifting is the bottom, which was quite far away.

All in all, I thought the diving in Rangiroa was pretty easy and absolutely spectacular. And it certainly would be no difficulty for the dive op to keep you relatively shallow and in visual contact with structure.
 
I didn't think that the dives at Rangaroa were too hard, but my wife, who is less experienced found them a little intimidating. Some of the best diving I have even done, though. I really, really like the outer reef and all the pelagics.

If you are new, you might consider Moorea. Most of the dives there are low key and still very beautiful. You might even do a couple days in Moorea and then go to one of the outer atolls after you have built a little confidence.
 
I have a trip report posted somewhere here on the board. I was in both locations around 4 or 5 years ago....some of the best diving for big stuff I have done. Currents?...yep...but you usually swim with the currents. Let your dive guide know your experience and all should be good.....You will love it!
 
What I'm going to say may sound like anal motherhood but I think that you might want to consider this from a different perspective, and I applaud you for being prudent in at least asking the questions.

It has been said a few times in different forums on this board that the challenge for fairly new divers diving in "advanced" dive sites isn't so much that there is a strong current, that it is deep, that it is rough or what have you. It is, instead, having to deal with some or all of these external stress factors, while at the same time worrying perhaps about air consumption, buoyancy, equalizing, kicking, figuring out the equipment, etc. - things that you get much better at over time and with more dives. It is under these stressful circumstances that a diver can sometimes become overloaded and overwhelmed.

So while it is true that the pass dives can be easy and you will most likely come out of the dives quite fine and thrilled, sometimes they can be challenging. Also consider how much more you might enjoy dives like these if you spend more time looking at what's out there and less time looking at your gages, for example.

Here are some of the elements of these pass dives that can add to the degree of difficulty:

1. you will most likely have to make a negative entry. As best as I can recall, there is no getting in, bobbing at the surface until everyone is ready and then descending. The current is usually strongest at the surface, so hanging too long near the surface means getting blown too far into the pass.

2. you may need to make a quick descent to the bottom and latch on to something. At most of these passes, the heaviest shark action is right at the mouth. Only at the southern pass in Fakarava are the sharks at their heaviest concentration inside the pass. If the current is strong and a diver is slow in descending - equalizing issues, for example - again, he or she may get blown well into the pass and separated from the group.

3. if the current is strong, the dive guide may choose to drop in a little further out into the blue to give divers more time to descend. When you backflip into the blue, especially if you have never done it before, it can get a bit disorienting to see all blue and have nothing to reference against. As an aside, if you find yourself in this predicament, calm yourself down - breathe - and try to locate the dive guide: he will always know which way is up or down and which way to go.

4. The depth at the mouth of the passes is over 100 ft. When I dove these, we usually stayed there for a few minutes before letting go to start the drift. If you hover in mid-water and are not latched to something, you would have to be kicking a lot (and using a lot of air) to maintain position, and if the current is more than let's say 1 knot, you will drift away into the pass anyway.

By now, you are probably thinking that being well inside the pass is not good. Not true. As I said earlier, there are lots of Grey Reef sharks inside the southern pass in Fakarava. You might also see two types of Black Tips. The reef wall on your right as you drift inwards is exquisite. Midway into the Fakarava northern pass, there is an area that Serge at Fakarava Diving Center (highly recommended, BTW) calls The Valley. The amount of fish here is unbelievable and you can also see small groups of Grey Reefs patrolling. In Tiputa Pass in Rangiroa, there are these things that look like WWII dug-out trenches at the bottom of the pass - you duck into these trenches and can watch all kinds of stuff drifting above: sharks, mantas and dolphins.

5. it can sometimes be mighty choppy at and just inside the mouth of these passes. Dolphins love to go surfing on these waves, specially at Tiputa Pass. You don't normally surface here - usually you drift further into the lagoon where it is pretty nice and calm. But what if you got separated or were low on air?

6. about the current: I've seen easy and I've seen intimidating as in rip your mask and reg off.

I know that I have painted a pretty gloomy picture here, but when assessing the risk of any situation, you also have to look at worst case. Taken one at a time, a fairly new diver can manage. Add several of the above together and it could be challenging even to divers with more experienced.

With that said, I understand this being a once-in-a-lifetime trip and your wanting to get the most out of it. Hopefully you will love it so much that you will want to make many future returns.

Suggestions: for starters, I'd say be totally honest with the dive operator about your experience level so that they can plan your dives accordingly and so that they can look out for you. Altho it is their responsibility to lead a safe dive, safety ultimately starts with you and diving within your capabilities.

Second, it might be wise to spend the first few days doing only the reefs on the outside at either side of the mouth of the pass and maybe even the lagoon dives to build up a little more confidence before asking the dive operator about doing the passes.

The reefs on the outside are gradual sloping walls as opposed to vertical walls with no bottom, so you can pick a depth you are comfortable with and maintain it. If there is any current out there, it'd be very light and the dive guide would have you drift with it anyway. As already mentioned by others, these are beautiful dives in of themselves with lots to see.

Have a great time.
 
i guess it must depend on who you dive with. we noticed that divers from a live aboard that was there for a couple of days were diving much more conservatively. on our dives through taputa pass we dropped into the blue quite a way outside the pass and went down to 40 metres so we could observe the top of a sea mount before starting the drift towards the pass. all of these dives (except one) lasted around 80 minutes, the last twenty minutes of which, my wife and i were buddy breathing from our guides and/or a camera man who was on the dives.
we also had one dive on taputa pass that had to be abandoned because an inexperienced couple (they had only previously dived in cozamel) who were diving the pass for the first time became panicked at the sight of a 5 metre great hammerhead and bolted for the surface. we never saw them diving again and i still can't believe neither got bent.
that said there is another pass that was a simple dive, as were those inside the lagoon and those on the edge of taputa pass' entrance.
 
Thanks to everyone for their feedback, and especially to Manuel Sam for such a detailed list of potential problem areas. That was exactly what I was looking for, since in my research I found a lot of references to the dives being "difficult" but not very much about what specifically I should be expecting.

It was also reassuring to hear from others that the pass dives can be do-able for a beginner, and also that there are more beginner options like the outer reef available if the conditions turn out not to be conducive to newbies like myself. There are a number of things on Sam's list that do concern me a bit, the main ones being running out of air and having to surface before the rest of the group, and being carried away from the group due to strong currents while descending (this one actually sounds pretty nightmarish).

In case you are interested, I think we are definitely going to plan to go to both Rangiroa and Fakarava. We'll be spending a few days on Bora Bora first and plan to get some easier dives in - we are also considering doing the Advanced Open Water certification there, to get some experience going deep and get some practice with other skills. When we get to the Tuamotus we'll make sure to be clear with the dive ops about our experience and let them evaluate what we should be doing. I've read that due to trade winds, the seas in July tend to be a bit choppier, so that may be a concern.

On a somewhat related note, does anyone have any advice on logistics of flying between the islands and diving? I know it's recommended to wait 18-24 hours after diving to fly, but does that allow for a morning dive the day before an afternoon flight? Do the dive operators accommodate that, or do you have to stay on the boat for the whole day even if you are not diving the later sessions?
 
Wow, Sam, thank you for that post! Your description is totally different from our experience of the Tiputa Pass dive. We dropped on the outer reef, and came around the corner into the pass, and drifted in. It was dead simple, and I think our max depth was 70 feet. Diving it the way you describe would definitely be a much more advanced dive.

I wonder if the Serge in Fakarava is the same man with whom we dove in Rangiroa? I can't imagine that there are that many pros named "Serge" in that small area of the world. If it is the same man, I can see why you praise him. His enthusiasm and excitement were a huge addition to our enjoyment of our Rangiroa dives. He was one of the best guides I have dived with, anywhere in the world.
 
I believe that the other pass that Laurenceh alludes to in Rangiroa is Avatoru Pass. I've never done it but I've heard that it is a place to see Silvertips.

I try to get at least 18 hours before flying. So doing a morning dive or even two the day before an afternoon flight would be very doable to me. Speaking of flying, don't know if you're aware that Air Tahiti (the domestic airline) offers passes that allow you to fly to multiple islands.

I dove Rangiroa from the Aggressor so I don't know how the local dive operations there run their trips. I did see that some of them use inflatables, so my guess is that they go back and change tanks as opposed to staying out there.

When diving northern Fakarava - pass or outer reefs - Serge always comes back to the dive shop in between dives. But when he does trips to the southern pass and to a nearby atoll called Toau, he takes enough tanks to do two dives because it is obviously impractical to come back in between dives.

TSandM: I think that we might have had this conversation before. I believe that Serge worked for Top Dive in Rangiroa before he and his wife Carinne went off on their own and opened Fakarava Diving Center at the Maitai Hotel in Fakarava. They have since relocated to the Parapara Pension.

I believe that they are Swiss and they sailed halfway around the world before settling in French Polynesia. When I was last there in 2006, they still lived right in the sailboat. He bears a resemblance to Bruce Dern. And he is indeed an excellent dive guide.
 
FWIW, I snorkeled the pass back in '99. Went about 3/4 out toward the ocean before dropping us in. Quite fun and we flew deep into the lagoon. We were on a glass bottom boat and could see the divers going by. You couldn't go against that current, but going with the current was very easy. Don't go out and look at the pass from the land as it looks rather forbidding and turbulent.

In Tahiti, you learn sharks are normal.

Did my discover scuba right inside the lagoon leading to my subsequent scuba obsession...
 
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