Advice - Atomic Z2 first and second stage saltwater intrustion

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Philly_Diver

Contributor
Messages
106
Reaction score
3
Location
Philadelphia, PA
# of dives
500 - 999
Folks,
I would like your advice, I let a fellow diver borrow my back-up rig that has a Z2 main and Z2 Octo, apparently when he was setting up the rig for a dive, he allowed the bottom section of the first stage to spin around a few times, thus removing the tight seal. On his dive, the gap allowed sea water to enter the regulators. Now I am concerned about saltwater in the 1st stage/2nd stage, what do you recommend? I have already soak the rig in fresh water, but in my mind I am think the entire rig needs a complete servicing.

Open to your thoughts...
 
I bought a used Z2 octo off eBay that was supposedly in good condition (well it did look pretty new externally...)

However, when I pulled it down for a full service I discovered salt water had got inside and corroded the inside of the Inlet Tube quite badly.

Had obviously gone for a tumble in the surf as parts of the AFC Diaphragm and Plunger were caked in very fine white sand... gritty to move.
It had then sat around for some time, as the much-vaunted Zirconium plating was eaten through to the brass in places on the inside of the Inlet Tube leaving white crusty deposits.

A 50:50 white vinegar and water pickle followed by 15 mins ultrasonic cleaning in 1:10 Simple Green Crystal at 60C and it came up pretty well, with an o-ring kit and adjustment it now breathes fine.

However, in your case simply soaking won't save your Z2 if saltwater has atomised through the whole reg... both stages will need a full strip, clean and service IMO.
 
I disagree, according to your narrative it was likely pressurized the entire time the tank valve was turned out. If that was the case, the Orifice didn't allow any water past it into the 1st stage as that's how it works.

If you dunked the whole reg in the rinse tank post dive, due to the Seat Saver Orifice it's likely/possible some fresh water did get into the 2nd stage. I usually keep one stage - or the middle of the hose - higher since water doesn't run uphill. Or hook it to a tank and blow a little air thru it after rinsing if I forget (or more likely the shop is cleaning/storing my regs post dive)

Also I think once the tank was connected/valve turned on, no wear could have entered around the Din fitting as air would have been escaping during the dive. Kind of surprised no one noticed.

I assume the interval between when it was submerged and the rinse was a short duration - you should be fine. Zirconium is harder/tougher than Chrome/Brass so the only way it would corrode would be if it sat for some extended interval with salt water inside it - I suspect that's what happened to the other posters.

I'm the poster child for not doing a lot of post dive maintenance and I've taken my Atomic regs in and had tech say the only reason he changed the parts is because it was already apart. I don't have a Z2 though, a B1 and a T2

If you wnt to be absolutely sure, your Atomic Dealer will probably be willing to inspect it w/o performing a service - they sort of recommend that anyway annually. Likely at no charge if you're the original owner.
 
I'm not sure I understand what happened exactly. If the first stage was hooked to a tank, and the tank was pressurised it shouldn't be a problem. This is like any other dive. However if the reg wasn't pressurized and went into salt water I would definitely service both the first and second stage. It doesn't take but a couple of drops of saltwater into the first stage inlet to start corrosion on the sintered filter and other components. A fresh water rinse may eliminate the problem with salt crystals forming after the salt water has evaporated, but salt water crystals aren't your only concern in this case. It's life support equipment, so I wouldn't take any chances.

B
 
Great, please let us know what the service technician finds... pics would be good too :D
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/swift/

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