? about RAW

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very interesting and helpful, answers my questions 100%. Thanks!!!

Now after I process a RAW picture...would I save it as a jpeg (I save the pictures for my photo cd's and prints) or should I save it as a TIFF first? I still have the RAW "negative" - would a 2nd save be over kill?
 
I save mine as what I need them for -> 72 700x525 jpge SAVE FOR WEB for web stuff; resized to whatever dimensions I need to print at as a jpeg or a psd (lossless format). As sharpening is best done as the last step before saving and it's best to do that on the size you are outputing I don't see much value in saving anything I won't output or work on later.
 
RonFrank:
Thanks, they were and remain my first UW photo's... sigh.. living in CO has some drawbacks :11doh:

I use a 2200. The major improvements in the Epson pigment inks are in two areas. First the K3 inks which are now in the 4800, 7800, 9800, R2400 printers include a new light light black ink. This is really only going to benifit you if you do a lot of B&W fine art prints. The R2400 is likely the printer one would choose for professional results up to 13" wide. The 4500 jumps the price to about $2000 MSRP, and gains one a 17" path.

Thanks, I use the Japanese version of the 2200, But it tends to suffer from bronzing on some prints with a lot of dark areas.

I use the color vision Pantone calibration with the spyder, I do need to get a print calibration device.

More later got to go diving!

Regarding your gallery. nice stuff both above and below the surface
 
Is printing an ART.. .YES!! Factor in the even more difficult side of printing.. color space, and device calibration, and then image adjustment, and subjective color balance, and you end up with PRINTING=ART

i been asked myself this question for quiet sometimes now......

color is subjective, what looks good to you may not be good enough for him/her
 
justleesa:
very interesting and helpful, answers my questions 100%. Thanks!!!

Now after I process a RAW picture...would I save it as a jpeg (I save the pictures for my photo cd's and prints) or should I save it as a TIFF first? I still have the RAW "negative" - would a 2nd save be over kill?

What you want to save it as is in a lossless format. This can be TIFF (but TIFF is VERY large, and generally 8 bit), or RAW or PSD (Photoshop). You want to save it before you size it to print. But, I often save my print sizes as well.

I don't save anything to JPG other than WEB images. If you shoot in JPG maybe you want to save in JPG, but it's a lossy format. I maybe to anal about stuff like this, but then again, hard to say :D
 
I usually make 3 "copies"
  • The unsigned one for prints
  • the signed ones for my cd slide shows
  • the Web sized ones for our website or posting

What would you suggest? That I squeeze a Tiff in front of the prints or instead reformat as I need them?
 
as long as we are talking about printers too....For quick prints I have a HP 4x6 printer, but am thinking that I would like to have bigger prints and a more lasting quality. Is Epson the way to go?
 
justleesa:
as long as we are talking about printers too....For quick prints I have a HP 4x6 printer, but am thinking that I would like to have bigger prints and a more lasting quality. Is Epson the way to go?

Epson makes arguably the best photo printers on the market. You would have to discuss your budget, and print size requirements. The larger the print, the more expensive the printer.
 
justleesa:
I usually make 3 "copies"
  • The unsigned one for prints Probably PSD
  • the signed ones for my cd slide showsJPEG
  • the Web sized ones for our website or postingJpeg...I use save for web function...don't forget to change to color profile sRGB BEFORE you save for stuff that will be viewed on a monitor.

HTH
 
I always wondered ....I read that the best res for a printed pic is 300dpi (+), why do the cameras in jpeg mode take the pictures only with 72dpi? Converting a jpeg pic later to 300dpi isn't the same as getting it with 350dpi straight out of the camera, is it?

i went back and read your question again and you’re right justleesa, you can take your hi res 300-350 dpi images bump down to 72 dpi, but you can not use your 72dpi images bump up to 300 dpi and print crisp clean.

i do not have enough knowledge on home printing devices these days, however if you ever submit your layout, design to a high-end lithopress print shop here is how it goes.

order to determine your ER (Effective Resolution) for lithopress printing, use this simple Nyquist Theorem
LPI (Line Per Inch)x2x% (of your actual image size)=ER (Effective Resolution)

example your art prints at 175 lpi x2 x100% of your image=350 dpi (ER)

a simple answer is when you take your 350 dpi images and prints at 200% enlarged, it will not look as sharp when you reduced down to 50% or less.

LPI (Line Per Inch), a typical high end lithopress print shop use between 150 to 175 lpi, a high end magazine such as national geographics prints at 200 lpi and that process are costly and time consuming, hope this will help when outputing for prints.
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/swift/

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