A6500 + TRT s-Turtle Manual + 2x YS-D3s

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I do the same, Wireless (WL) with the trigger.

How is the UW-Technics working for you? What strobes are you using? Are your cables multi-core?
What happens if you do NOT use WL mode? Try shooting into a mirror and capture the reflection of the strobes. I found this trick has saved me a couple times and validates that I have things configured properly.
I do not use a trigger for underwater but do use one for land (Godox Trigger and Godox Flash). When I turned on WL mode, I got a very, very weak flash. It triggered but with low, non-usable power.
I am using a Sony a6000 but fundamentally the same settings as on the a6500.
 
When I turned on WL mode, I got a very, very weak flash. It triggered but with low, non-usable power.
In WL mode you're supposed to set the power manually on the strobes, and there is no pre-flash. It's possible that either your strobes were set to minimum power, or they were in TTL mode and emitted a pre-flash rather than a full pulse.
 
In WL mode you're supposed to set the power manually on the strobes, and there is no pre-flash. It's possible that either your strobes were set to minimum power, or they were in TTL mode and emitted a pre-flash rather than a full pulse.
Not that I plan to use WL mode above water as the GODOX works fine, manual or TTL with either trigger or flash mounted on camera when not using WL. When I tried setting WL mode I got the weak flash only when flash was in TTL mode so I am sure your are correct that it is the preflash. I got no flash when set to Manual Mode (which is what I normally use). I do appreciate knowing what WL is supposed to do but I don't think my GODOX flash is compatible with it.

I was suggesting to the OP to see what results they get if they do NOT use WL mode to help troubleshoot their issue.
 
Not that I plan to use WL mode above water as the GODOX works fine, manual or TTL with either trigger or flash mounted on camera when not using WL. When I tried setting WL mode I got the weak flash only when flash was in TTL mode so I am sure your are correct that it is the preflash. I got no flash when set to Manual Mode (which is what I normally use). I do appreciate knowing what WL is supposed to do but I don't think my GODOX flash is compatible with it.
Looking at the specs for Godox TT685S, it has a 'skip preflash' mode, and it sounds like you have it enabled. When the flash is in manual mode and your camera is in WL mode, the camera fires a single pulse but the flash expects two, ignores the first one, and never gets the second. When the flash is in TTL mode, it fires on what it perceives to be the pre-flash, but again, never gets the full pulse. When you set the camera to any other flash mode and the Godox flash to manual, it gets the two pulses, skips the first and fires on the second; this works but introduces maybe half a second of shutter lag, possibly less. If you disable the 'skip preflash' mode on the flash, then you can use the WL mode to fire it at manual power without shutter lag.
 
Hello everyone, my apologies for the delay in this reply. Thank you for all your help.

I switched my camera setting to fill-in flash with my trigger and I now get lighting every time. I am unable to go beyond 1/160 but as I read online, the combination of my camera, trigger and strobes cannot achieve reliable lighting and images beyond the 1/160 shutter speed. I have not completly given up, I will still want to buy a pair of S&S or Nauticam fiber cables and try but until then, I will stick to "fill-in" and 1/160 shutter speed.

Wireless flash (WL) with my trigger allows me to go for higher shutter speed but I don't see my pictures lit up all the time so I can't really count on it under water. it's frustrating and disappointing and that's why I won't be using that mode.

With (WL) mode, I am still able to see the light source in my strobes lighting up but they don't light up my photograph which led me to believe that my strobes and camera can't sync faster "reliably" faster than 1/160.

The concept of HSS was new to me and once I read about it, it all made sense to me.

I have a couple of pictures that are half let and I can post these for demonstration if needed.
 
I actually changed my mind and I want to post these pictures to hear from you. I took these in Egypt a few days ago. I think they're interesting to look at since they don't use a high shutter speed but they're still not lit properly. I also found that some aperture values are more consistent than others. anyways, have a look and let me know what you think (color graded to highlight light).

ISO 200 12mm f/8.0 1/80 sec (shot a few seconds apart while changing strobe position)
DSC07463-2.jpg

DSC07464-2.jpg

DSC07465-2.jpg

ISO 200 12mm f/8.0 1/60 sec
DSC07466-2.jpg
 
That looks like a shutter sync issue, based on the pics. The top & bottom portions are being exposed over a time when the strobe is either starting or stopping the flash cycle.

Lance
 
Your combination of camera and strobes cannot go above 1/160s shutter speed sync; no cable will help you, it just can't be done, the camera shutter blades don't move fast enough. If you upgrade your camera body to a Sony A1, you'll get access to 1/400s flash sync speed, and 1/500s in APS-C sync mode, but that's $6500 just for a body. If you change your strobes to Retras, you'll be able to utilize high-speed sync, but that's $1000/strobe for Prime model and $1100/strobe for Pro. If you downgrade to a compact such as a Sony RX100 series, you'll be able to sync at any shutter speed all the way to 1/4000s, but then you'll also need wet lenses.

Note that if you're using manual power on the strobes and fill-in flash mode on the camera, the mode knob on the strobes must be set to the twin lightning bolts position so that they will ignore the pre-flash; this will also introduce a bit of shutter lag. If you're using WL mode on the camera, then you have to put the mode knob in the single lightning bolt position, or the strobes will not fire.

In general, I have not found the 1/160s flash sync speed limit on my A6300 to be a significant limitation - the only situation in which it really comes into play is shooting directly into the sun, like this:

Jhcddh4.jpg


...and even here, f/22, 1/160s, ISO 100 and full power on the strobes allowed me to light a large-ish sea fan while keeping the sunball under control.
Normally, when shooting wide-angle, I use shutter speeds in the 1/80-1/125 range in order to keep the blue water background reasonably bright.
 
I was never able to get the UWT trigger to be reliable with WL setting with my Nauticam and A6400, I went through three units with no success. I would get several perfect shots and then nothing. Then the next shot perfect. Then nothing. Then 10 shots perfect, then nothing 3 times. And so on. I got a new trigger under warranty and same thing. When it works it is great and I love the concept but the inconsistent "black" shots just do not work out for me. If there was at least a pattern to it but there is not, it is random. I tried hard manual, sTTL modes, same thing, inconsistent sync. I am currently shooting sTTL modes on my Inons with the A6400 flash as trigger, works great. With the (NLA) booster battery I can go four long dives and still have juice. Good thing I bought a couple of the batteries as I have not found anything other suitable.

Is anyone shooting (Z240-Z330) with wired sync with A series cameras?

I have not found the 1/160 speed vs rthe more typical 1/250 to be a limitation at all. I usually shoot at now and historically going back to Nikonos days at 1/125 or 1/60. As was mentioned, shooting into the sun with a WAL can be challenging but with powerful strobes and dial the f number up it is very possible. My limitation there is my not so powerful twin Inon D2000 strobes. I need new X330s. I almost wish they would break but they just keep banging away 100% reliable.

James
 
Good morning from Germany!
I'm Chris, coming home from the maldives right now.
I use a seafrogs housing with the sony a7c and the seafrogs flash trigger. What really annoys me, is that I have to open the case and set the trigger off and on at surface time, what again is a risk for leaking underwater. Otherwise it runs out of Power on 2nd dive.
So I'm looking for a new flash trigger. Maybe the turtle manual!
How long does the battery last even in standby?
Should be 1h dive 1h surface, 1h dive.
AND what is that NLA BOOSTER BATTERY that you mentioned ?
Thx!
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/swift/

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