A Singapore Diver’s Dream- The Galapagos (Deep Blue) – August 6th to Aug 15th

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wahlaoeh

Contributor
Messages
299
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9
Location
Singapore
# of dives
1000 - 2499
Oh yes, the BIG day has finally arrived… my long-awaited dream trip to the Galapagos, the crown jewel of the natural world. Chris and I have been planning this trip for almost a year. We booked ourselves on the Deep Blue through Ken Weemhoff, from the Galapagos Adventures (http://www.galapagosadventures.com). There were more preparations for this kind of a trip than usual as this will be my first time diving in cold waters (sub 20°C). I custom-made my 7/5 mm wet suit and 3 mm hood from Acronman (http://www.acronman.com), bought extra gloves and socks for extra warmth.

Getting there (EX Singapore):
It was a LONG but uneventful journey- going through different time zones.
06/08 0650 (Singapore time): I flew by Malaysian Air from Singapore, via Kuala Lumpur and then Stockholm to Newark. Arrived on 06/08 at 1900 (US time). Met up with Chris and bunked one night in Hoboken City at his apartment.
07/08 – 08/08: We flew by Continental Air to Guayaquil at 2335 on 07/08, arrived 6 hrs later, at 0605 (GMT-6hrs), had two cappuccinos to keep myself awake, and met by Deep Blue’s representative, Fanny, who made all check-in arrangements to San Cristobal (Galapagos Island). We also requested her to check if she could help arrange for flights and hotel accordingly to our impromptu plan (decided to stay another few days on Santa Cruz Island to see the highlands after our LOB). We were told that 4 guests had missed their connecting flight from Miami due to strong winds (hurricane??). We met up with 8 other guests: Michel and Theo, father and son team from Manhattan, and the other 6 from the Motley crew (Joe, John, Gregg, Rich, Marilyn and Dorothy) at the check-in. The AeroGal flight took off on schedule at 1145 and arrived at 1315 (1.5 hrs, GMT-5hrs). We cleared custom, paid the $100 Galapagos National Park fee (obligatory) and claimed our luggage. The Deep Blue crew was waiting outside for us at the airport and helped us with all our gears. We also met the two other guests, Al and Leslie, father and daughter team, transported by a 5 mins bus to the dock, and then ferried out to the boat by pangas (dinghies, which were also our diving boats).

The Deep Blue (http://www.galapagosadventures.com/yachts/page35.html) is a large and comfortable vessel with spacious cabins and plenty of space for 16 divers and 10 crews. Digital underwater photographers will be happy, as there are two camera tables and a huge rinse tank. The only odd is that there is no E6 processing for film…what a bummer!! (On the behalf of Al).

A quick orientation and we were assigned to our cabins. Chris and I got Room No. LUCKY 8 on the upper deck. After we have got our gear stowed and equipment set up, Luis I, our DM and naturalist guide briefed us on safety drill and the use of safety gadgets. Each one of us will be given a safety sausage, an air horn and a GPS tracking device. Oh BOY! They have made diving in the Galapagos looked so dangerous but I’m glad that Deep Blue had taken and implemented previous guest’s feedback on safety regulations. We had our check out dive at La Predial, to ensure that our equipments are functioning and weighting was correct. The water temperature was COLD…..B…U..U…R..R.. and visibility was < 8m but we saw few trumpet and angel fishes, small schools of polarized fishes and enjoyed the acrobatic act by playful sea lions.

We have our cocktail party, with crews and guests introduction before dinner on the first night, followed by a brief plan on what is expected on the next day.
Our itinerary for the next 7 days went like this:
Day 2 (10/08)-
Wake up call at 0630. Dive #2 at North Seymour.
Dive briefing with detailed map and gearing up. We were divided into two groups with two guides, Luis I and II having 6 divers each and boarded the pangas to get to the dive site. Due to the strong surge at the surface, the routine normally was to have all divers ready at the same time and enter the water simultaneously via backward roll after the DM called out Ready 3, 2, 1, Go! After the dive, pangas will be on lookout for surfaced divers and moored the panga near to them. First, hand up the weight belt, BCD and tank, and then pulled yourself over the inflatable or with the help from someone on board- quite an experience for me and always ended up in a pretty awkward position. Each panga was equipped with a radio/walkie talkie and the panga handlers will communicated and make sure that all divers on board before heading back to the boat.
2 hrs land excursion on North Seymour, led by Luis I, with detailed explanations of the wildlife and island’s history. We walked through guided trail and saw an amazing variety of birds: amusing blue and red footed boobies (sometimes, openly display of affection, with the male performing the courtship dance), the great frigate birds, pelicans, Darwin’s finches, swallow-tailed gulls and many more. We also saw lazy sea lions and land/marine iguanas basking under the sun, unperturbed by our intrusions. Numerous Sally light foot crabs crawling on the volcanic rocks make great objects for photography with their orange bodies and red legs. I would, at many times, unknowingly wandered off the trail to have a better glimpse of the wildlife and was constantly reminded by Luis I to be back on the trail. This practice, however will ensure that these uninhabited islands will remain the same for many, many more years. Great job, Luis I!!
Lunch and Dive #3 at North Seymour. Pick-up the other 4 guests: Kathy, Barbara, Penny and Linda from Santa Cruz. We began our 16 hrs journey northward to Wolf Island and hopefully a date with the schooling hammerheads and other pelagic.
Rest and Relax. Dinner, followed by briefing.

Day 3 (11/08)-
Wake up call at 0730. Re-grouped and dive #4 and #5 at the Landslide (Wolf Island).
Lunch, followed by dive #6 at the Landslide and then dive #7 at the Pinnacles.
Rest and Relax. Dinner and briefing. Overnight journey approx. 4 hrs to Darwin Island.

Day 4 (12/08)-
Wake up call at 0600. Dive #8 and #9 at the Arch (Darwin Island).
Lunch. Dive #10 and #11 at the Arch.
** The gentle giant did not response to my date!
Dinner and briefing (decided to do another 2 dives at the Arch by voting- special invitation sent out to Mr. Big AGAIN!!

Day 5 (13/08)-
Wake up call at o600. Dive #12 and #13 at the Arch. Finally, we’ve had two encounters with HIM!! Awesome….Kathy described HIM to be like a school bus cruising passed and then disappeared into the blue.
The guides suggested doing another dive at the Arch so that the rest who missed the previous dive could see HIM- Dive #14 but no luck!
Lunch and the boat head back south to Cousin’s Rock- approx. 18 hrs at 8 nautical knots.
Rest and Relax. Dinner and briefing.

Day 6 (14/08)-
Wake up call at 0730. Dive #15 at Cousin’s Rock.
1 and ½ hrs land excursion at Bartalome Island (just off Sullivan Bay). We took the sandy path from the jetty (dry landing) and begin our 600m walk, through a wild and unearthly looking lava landscape to the 114m summit. The landscape is riddled with red, orange, green and glistening black formation of volcanic origin including lava flows and lava tubes, A wooden boardwalk and stairs (about 350+ steps) have been built on the last (steepest) section. The view from the top is simply breathtaking with scenic panoramic view of the neighboring islands.
After lunch, we were given two options: to snorkel with the endemic Galapagos penguins or take a panga ride close to the rocks around the island. We opted for the latter and saw few penguins, oysters catchers, sea lions, pelicans…
Nite dive #16 at Bartalome Island. Dinner and briefing.
* Chris and I were told that Fanny had made all arrangements for us to stay on Santa Cruz for another 6 days, including helping with the booking of the hotel. Thanks Fanny!!

Day 7 (15/08)-
Wake up call at 0600. Dive #17 at Gordon Rocks.
2 hrs land tour at South Plaza, located off the east coast of Santa Cruz. The island is 13 hectares in area and is home to enormous prickly pear cacti and the endemic succulent sesuvian, which form a reddish (during dry season) carpet that spreads atop the rocks. After dry landing, we walked a loop trail, first along the shore, through sea lions and land iguanas colonies, then upslope to the southern side of the island, and then along a cliff where swallow tailed gulls and other species nest.
After lunch, we took the pangas to Santa Cruz to visit the giant tortoises in the Darwin Center and did some shopping before heading back to the boat for dinner and farewell. Chris and I left the boat at 2130 and took the panga to Santa Cruz for our stay on the island. We checked into Mainao Inn as planned.
 
The Diving:
Definitely not for the faint-hearted and you must be an advanced and experience diver to be able to enjoy the diving in the Galapagos. The most difficult task before each dive was to struggle (I mean it) into the wetsuit, many times wet and cold… kind of a yucky feeling but well worth the effort after the amazing dive each time. The surface surge and the underwater currents can be very strong but once I got used to the shearing effect of the currents against my mask and regulator, the adventure begins…
In North Seymour, the water temperature was 21C and the visibility was around 15m. We saw few eagle rays, white-tip sharks, sea lions, and numerous but one species of nudibranchs (Tambja mullineri), moray eels, puffers and porcupines, trumpet fishes, schools of surgeon, butterfly fishes and yellow stripped snappers.
In the northern islands (Wolf and Darwin), the temperature was warmer, average at 25C and the visibility was lower, at around 10m. We encountered hundreds of hammerheads, Galapagos sharks, and silky sharks in Wolf. Diving in Darwin Arch gave you the adrenaline rush feeling that one can never experience elsewhere. One can either hold onto to the rocks, wait and watch as the action go by or be a bit bolder, like me, swim out to the open and just glide through thousands of bait fishes where giant trevallies will be feeding, lovely bottlenose dolphins swimming by or at times few 2-3m hammerheads circling to check you out….eerie sensation but just sheer madness kind of diving. When you’re tired fighting the currents, just head back to the rocks where curious blennies and hawk fishes will be posing for you to take their pictures….What a peculiar sight! I had two brief encounters with the gentle giant, the Whale shark. Not too lucky I guess but well, I was thrilled.
The water temperature at Cousin’s Rock, Bartalome and Gordon Rocks was around 21C and the visibility 10-15m. These sites are macro haven for the photographers as the currents are milder. Just cruise along with the currents and we saw a seahorse, long-nosed hawk fishes, blennies, eagle rays, school of barracuda and sea lions at Cousin’s Rock and Gordon Rock. The nite dive at Bartalome was more like muck diving but the sandy bottom was very much alive with red-lipped batfish, octopus, rainbow scorpion fishes, Galapagos cusk eel, shrimps and crabs. In short, I would sum up that the diving was much better than what I have expected and I will definitely be back again to have more. It was worth all the effort from the planning to the traveling and every cent that I have spent!

The Crew and Service:
Pedro (Captain), Luis Rodriguez (Dive guide and Naturalist), Luis II (Dive guide), Javier and Cifredo (Dingy handlers), Pedro (Engineer), Wilson (Engineer Assistant), Eric (Barman), Roberto (Cook) and Marcelo (Assistant Cook).

This 10-men team has made my trip an enjoyable and safe one. The guides are very knowledgeable and provide detailed and informative briefings. The boat was kept clean the entire week. Fresh and warm towels were provided after each dive and personally handed to the shivering ones (okie, that’s me). Lots of drinking water, both hot (coffee, tea, cocoa) & cold (mineral and soft drinks) was available throughout the week. The food is varied and plentiful. Breakfast is usually served with eggs, ham and bacon, toasts and pancakes, fresh fruits and cornflakes. Lunch and dinner consist of two main course (steamed fish, grilled chicken and beef, lasagna, fried rice etc, salads and dressings, desserts and fruits. Snacks (fried wings, mini sandwiches, chips etc) and fresh juices (I often can’t tell from what kinds of fruits they are made of but they were always GOOD) were provided after each dive.

Verdict: They put in 100% of their effort & attention to keep the guests happy and comfortable and they deserved 100%. If I ever dive in the Galapagos again, it will be with the Deep Blue.

Final notes:
As the saying goes, there is no place on earth like the Galapagos and you’ll have to be there to experience it. Well, I am glad that I’ve JUST did…

Finally, I would like to extend a BIG THANK YOU to all those who made my trip an unforgettable one: Ken and Fanny from Galapagos Adventurers, the hardworking 10-men team crew from Deep Blue, 14 wonderful friends from the USA (hope we’ll crossed paths soon again and maybe Asia will be in your next diving plan), and last but not least Chris, who was my travel cum diving buddy. Gracias !


here is a link to my pixs...enjoy..

http://sg.homeunix.com/jovin/album01

happy bubbles,
jovin-
 
Wow! Congrats on having the opportunity to go to the Galapagos! At the moment, it's a place that i can only dream of....I bet every cent spent was worth it eh? :wink: I didn't know the water would be that cold though...
 
Thank you so much for the trip report. I am hoping to go in the next two years.
 
Hey Jovin
I was there last November (on Lammerlaw) and reading your account brings it all back. A great place to dive! Thanks for sharing your experience.
Alison
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/peregrine/

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