8080 first impressions

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divinman

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Took the camera for its maiden dive this morning. Here are my thoughts.

8080/Ikelite housing/DS125 with TTL sync

HEAVY. 10 pounds. I weighed it. 10 pounds. And I still plan on adding my DS50 sub-strobe when it comes back from repair. Geezus!! Underwater it is not too bad but I will be replacing the single arm with my double. Mostly to add the second strobe but even if I were not, I would still go with a double handle so as to give my poor left hand a break from carrying it around underwater.

TTL: I must have a setting wrong although I went through the Ikelite setup and the camera setup and although it appears to work topside when I tested it, all of my TTL attempts at depth were over exposed. Not just a little but DRAMATICALLY. After 10 or show white outs, I switched to half power and just adjusted strobe distance for effect. I will have to look deeper to see what the problem is. Not impressed with TTL at this point but again, it could be operator error.

8080: Could this thing take longer to focus? I suppose so but it seems unlikely. Even with good ambient light and the focus light on the strobe on it was still hunting light a hound on the scent trying to find a good lock. I swear, I almost fell asleep between shots once or twice. Grrrrrrrrr. Image quality is really sharp and color saturation is good when I have the strobe set properly. No real detectable artifacting on the images that a novice like me can recognize. The camera writes SHQ images to the card nearly as fast as my old 4040 wrote HQ files.

Ikelite Housing: Heavy but well built. Camera controls are fully functional. I would like to have seen them go with a constant on switch for the once that require a press and hold while turning the jog dial to select options. It is hard to hold the camera, press the button and turn the dial at the same time. I HOPE it gets easier with practice. I don't see where having a different mfg housing would make this easier aside from the weight of the unit. The shutter release is a bit trick in my opinion. Because it is not spring loaded, if you press it and then move your finger, it stays pressed. I have lots and lots of pictures of sand and the side of my leg. It takes almost no travel on the release to engage the shutter release on the camera. Now I suppose this type of function may come in handy when doing a half press and hold as the half press will stay pressed until you manually press the lever forward again. Good thing? Jury is still out on that one for me. The port on this is a monster, looks like a howitzer sticking out the front and definitely blocks some of the focus assist light in the camera.

So, I will be back in the water with it tomorrow and trying again with the TTL. If anyone has any recommendations on some "my modes" to try or what I may be doing wrong, I am all ears..


Terry
 
You don't say what camera settings and housing flash settings you were using, and that would be helpful to diagnose what is wrong. You may want to review the manual and make sure you don't have something unusual in your setup of the camera or strobe.

By all means, make sure All Reset is off, so your settings are preserved when you turn the camera off.

Flash overexposure: What shooting mode are you using, P, A, S, M, or a scene mode like sports? Did you disable the internal flash or use the Slow1 setting? One website I have seen recommends using manual exposure, setting -0.7 flash exposure setting for the 5050, and the 8080 has similar controls, so I assume a similar setting might be worth experimenting with, see:
http://www.splashdowndivers.com/photo_gallery/underwater_photography/up_ikelite_olympus_ttl.htm

There are a lot of good shots on that site using Olympus cameras and the DS-125, so it's worth a study. His MyMode setups make a good starting point.

Slow autofocus:

General performance of the camera and housing are rated here, but there is minimal detailed information on settings, and I think that may be your problem:
http://www.camerasunderwater.co.uk/ikelite/d_stills/oly_c8080test.html

Regarding general slow operation, I have found all AF systems all need an edge or line to focus on, so in AF mode you need to have some sharp contrasting lines in your subject to get quick focus. Find an edge or line like that at the same distance, lock the af, and recompose on your subject. Use Manual focus if it is really hopeless, like on sandy bottom.
 
Using the settings from the links given, I headed back out. You can see my results at the the link below. Much better results today however I still see some over exposure when in tight on my subject. Exif data is attached to each image. Regards

Terry

http://www.scubapost.net/forums/Scorpionfish/
 
Thanks for all the info on your experiences. I am probably going to transition to a similar setup soon so I am quite interested. I'd love to jump in and give you some advice since I used an 8080 w/ a DS125 and a Olympus housing in Australia, but honestly I haven't shot since and have forgotten anything constructive I might have learned. Plus I dont have TTL capability through the Olympus housing only the power adjustments on the strobe itself. I would say though, that you should try http://www.digitaldiver.net for more expert advice. They are exclusively u/w digital photo. Anyway, keep up the posting, and if you want to look at some of my shots from the Great Barrier Reef, check out the link in my signature...
 
PS. I'm thinking of going with a separate focusing lite for night dive situations. As you noted the built in one is insufficient. You can use the modeling light on the DS125, but I have heard that you should not have your strobe pointed directly at the center of your frame, but rather somewhat to the side. Haven't tried this yet.
 

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