5060 on night dive ?s

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We have the 5050, and to be honest, I don't know how you would be able to take any sort of decent night picture without an external strobe. I don't think the internal flash would be useful at night at all.
 
I've been experimenting in cavern situations that are almost black as night. I found that with my dive light I can acheive focus sometimes and the internal flash will do well close up with things to reflect back off of. I usually open the aperture up and set the speed to around 1/60. Some shots work some don't. Focus is hard and blur from movement occurs so I take several shots. Attached is a pic from 50' down looking into a deeper part of the cavern with no surface light. The back wall is about 15' to 20' away. I brightened the pic up some in photoshop but was still amazed at how bright it was.
 
Before I got my strobes for my 5050, the only really decent night shots I could get were reasonably close up shots (within a few feet) using only the internal flash. If you want to do anything from a greater distance, you'd probably need a strobe or two.
 
The same rules apply: Get close ie reduce the water column between you and subject so your flash will reach and also reduce backscatter.

Use a good spotting light to help your camera focus. Preferably something with a soft beam that doesn't throw a 'hot spot'.

Use a fast shutter speed (1/250) so your camera doesn't record the light from your spotting light, especially 'hot spots'.

Start with F/4 or F/5.6
 
ReyeR:
The same rules apply: Get close ie reduce the water column between you and subject so your flash will reach and also reduce backscatter.

Use a good spotting light to help your camera focus. Preferably something with a soft beam that doesn't throw a 'hot spot'.

Use a fast shutter speed (1/250) so your camera doesn't record the light from your spotting light, especially 'hot spots'.

Start with F/4 or F/5.6


What do you use as a spotting light? i found a site that sells a universal light holder that goes into the hot shoe for about 35 bucks but am not sure what kind of light to purchase
 
I would also appreciate anyone's input about their favorite way to attach a spot beam to the rig and which light and type of attachment they use.
Thanks!
 
reefsong:
I would also appreciate anyone's input about their favorite way to attach a spot beam to the rig and which light and type of attachment they use.
Thanks!

I tie-wrap a small flashlight to the external flash, since my YS-90DX lacks a focus light. The light allows the camera focus to work, and of course is an aiming aid for the flash. I also use my main dive light for composition and focus aid. I have not really taken many good night dive shots with this setup, but I wanted to work something out.

You can simply tie wrap a torch to your camera also, but I suspect you will have severe backscatter. Try it, let us know.

I'm wishing I had bought a strobe with "modeling light", . The Inon seems a better solution than my YS-90DX.

In retrospect, I question the wisdom/safety of night diving combined with photography. You really mush follow all the cautions for night diving, and have a buddy who is dependable. I've been in so many situations which I considered unsafe while night diving, it may be best not to have the distractions of photography while doing something extra hazardous. I got separated from my group several times, and was less focused on my surroundings than I should have been. But there are certain fish and other delights that are more interesting at night, so the temptation is there...
 
I have 2 x DS-125s, each with it's own built-in modelling light - the sad thing is that I don't use them anymore. Which is a shame because they are very good focus-assist lights. Why can't I use them anymore? Because I very rarely aim my strobes directly at the subject now.
I have rigged a DIY mount at the bottom of my tray (no room at the top of my rig) with some modular hose (locline). The light I use is a UK SL-4. But the beam is too narrow and not very bright. If I diffuse it then it's too weak to make a difference. I think one day I will have to bite the bullet and get a Fisheye from my friend Yuzo (smilie: credit card with wings).
Here's a neat way of mounting a focus-assist light: ultralight.com
 
i personally have a 5050, but as far as i'm aware most of the functions are the same. at the moment i only use the internal flash, and unless i'm feeling artistic, i leave it on automatic. the key to getting good photos though is getting as close to the subject as you can. this creates a problem if you are trying to take photos of fish, so there are basically two options available. either change your subject, i.e. photograph more docile marine life thaqt allows you to get closer, or take pictures from a distance and edit them on something like photoshop. for the camera to focus i personally use my torch, even on day diving (this is scotland, it's dark most of the time under water!!) but before pressing the shutter release i move the torch light away, so that only the flash is affecting the photo. the normal shutter speed is somwhere around 1/60 and the photos normally turn out pretty damn good.
hope this helps..

TTFN
 

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