3D printing...

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Does this come through? This is a pic of the 4S3P Battery Holder I designed a long time ago. I'm printing it in PLA, but it should be done in ABS. That will be later today. :D


Pictures all working for me. These don't look right (to my non professional eye). The pieces in back look good, just not the ones up front. I couldn't even guess what's causing it. First layer bed adhesion looks good, and that's usually what causes any of my prints to go bad. Take a look in your slicer software and break down those top layers and see what they're doing. In models that I have designed myself sometimes the slicer likes to do odd things. Hope that makes sense. I don't have your printer, so it's hard to guess. Also, I'd look at what the optimal speed is for your printer. I think mine is set to 50 or 60 mm/s, but again, different printer.

But hey, if it works, who cares what it looks like? Was pennies on the dollar to make instead of buy, and I'd take a little "character" in a print any day over buying something.
 
@The Chairman

Can you screenshot your settings? Top layer settings? The picture resolution on here isn't great, but it doesn't look like the "carriers" are demonstrating the same behavior at the same layer height correct? Your corners look really ragged on those two parts, but the carriers don't appear to be demonstrating the same issue which is sorta throwing me off.

My first thought is that you're way too hot and your travel speed is low so everything is sorta spoogeing everywhere, but if that helped get your calibration cube to where it needed to be it's weird. Maybe it's stringing filament during z-axis retraction for moves and it's just being sloppy. Do you have retraction enabled under the materials tab and z-hop under travel enabled?

Lemme have a think about it for a bit, it's like those two parts are using your old settings, while the carriers are using your new settings. Normally you'd be seeing the same behavior across all the parts in the print.

What version of Cura are you using, 4.2.1? Try printing one with the "recommended" settings without diving into the custom stuff and see how it looks. And get in the habit of not trying to print the whole bed at once. The longer it's printing, the more time it has to go screwy. Remember you're jamming plastic through a hot squirt gun, success is relative with these.
 
My first thought is that you're way too hot
That's probably it. It's @230 for diagnostic purposes, and I'm supposed to dial it back and see how cubes print. I didn't realise that the temp was for diagnostic purposes only. We were dealing with a clogging issue.
Lemme have a think about it for a bit, it's like those two parts are using your old settings, while the carriers are using your new settings.
They were all sliced at the same time.
 
Success and failure. The parts don't fit together like I designed. The hex coming off of the base is 18.23mm while the battery clips and the center connector are 16.81mm. Grrrrrrr.

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They were all sliced at the same time.

That's what's throwing me for a loop.

Maybe start at say....210, and print just that one part at 25%, see how it does, then 50%, see how it does. If you need to up the temp, go to 215 or 220 and print another couple parts at a reduced size.

At least this way you can save some filament and time while you're testing. Calibration cubes are pretty limiting in their use. As you can see, printing a 20mm cube doesn't necessarily mean you've found the best combo of settings. Have you tried printing a temperature calibration tower? Overhang calibration parts? Overhang quality can be telling.

Your cooling fans are on correct?

Print this full scale at say, 215 and use it as your baseline. *MINI* All In One 3D printer test by majda107

Same with this for more calibration capability: 3D Calibration Ruler by RichieC

Temperature calibration tower: Customizable Temperature Calibration Tower by kerog777
 
Kewl. I'll jump on that and then check the STL files to see why it's so thick.
 
You can probably find your filament here: PLA

Sort of a crowdsourced info dump. It's worth seeing if your filament is in the database, and what other people are saying about it.
 
That's probably it. It's @230 for diagnostic purposes, and I'm supposed to dial it back and see how cubes print. I didn't realise that the temp was for diagnostic purposes only. We were dealing with a clogging issue.

They were all sliced at the same time.

Way too hot for PLA, I think I ride @ 210 or 220. I bet that would fix a good chunk of your issue.

Does your model have a heated bed? If so, what's that temp set at?
 

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