3 Indonesian destinations Kalimaya - Komodo - Bali : Aug18 Trip report

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Out of my procrastination, posts in other threads regarding Komodo rang my alarm bell : I had to write up that dive report before anyone gets tired about it or prefers to argue about tipping or not tipping Indonesian guides.

Let’s call that cross reporting.

Part 2 Komodo LiveAboard - Dragon Dive Komodo

So after leaving Kalimaya we had the choice between taking a ferry to Labuan Bajo or flying back to Bali then Labuan Bajo. Wife selected the second option, much more expensive and finally more eventful than the Indonesian ferry ride. What woman says… so be it.

Back now to Dragon Dive Komodo where I spent 5days diving last year, back for a short liveaboard that was initially 4D/3N stretched to 5D/4N on the proposition of the management because we couldn’t leave on the first day as early as it was planned and therefore missed one dive, so in the end we had 1 day, 1 night and 1 dive more than planned .
It was then time to meet up with the french instructors : Nico we befriended last year who with Paul another French instructor veteran from the Gilis & R4, were assigned to direct the liveaboard.

We had booked the only suite in a small liveaboard that also had a double room as well as 2*4 guests dorms. Our 8 divers party was quite young 4 were less than 25 yo, international (Argentinian, Spanish, Brit, German Swiss, Israeli and yes French) and unexperienced for the most (4 post beginners with less than 15 dives formed a group, the rest 2 instructors had more than 500 dives each, me even more and an AOW with 50 dives teamed up for our group).

Meet the group and the boat. (Bill, pls steer away with your disobliging comments only triggered by the fact you’re getting older everyday. )

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The “Yoshi” is a small liveaboard on two levels, we had the privilege to dwell upstairs which is the level for the captain’s cabin, the dining space and the only suite accom on the board, while the dive deck and the other accoms are located on the base floor.

First dive around 8AM depending on the tides, breakfast, second dive around 11AM, lunch then an afternoon dive starting in between 2:30 and 4PM or a night dive at 6:30PM, dinner then time to socialize around a card game or a display of photos taken from the day, discussion about the best configuration for diving the sites on the next day. Some days also included a dragon trek on Rinca or a hill trek right on the island some stupid guy half reduced to ashes a month earlier as he wanted to set fire places for a wedding photo shooting. Really : what a jerk…

The diving? Well you all know central and north Komodo, lots corals, high visibility, blue water, plenty of fish
On the first days we dived Batu Tengah which I really like for the seafans displayed around the pinnacle raising up the surface and teh spectacular corals all around even deeper.

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Peak season means lotsa divers in peak season too : the boon of being on a liveaboard is that you can beat the daytrip crowds somehow… as it seems they’re getting earlier and earlier to the sites, thanks to the use of speedboats. Batu Bolong is a jacuzzi nightmare from 9AM to 3PM.
though it still provides one of the most spectacular diving in the park.

Nico on Batu Bolong :
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The usual anthias soup :
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Batu Bolong north side emerging from the crack, which isn't bad either when the current shift allows :
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The fusilier school orphan from their regular GT predator
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That said if you take some time there’s always something special creeping there while others are looking into the blue. Like… woooooot ????!!!

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1/2....
 
Part 2 ctd

In a way and with the exception of Batu Bolong where you can’t avoid divers , it seemed Nico and Paul handled plans in order there would not be another group following the same route., such as waiting for a split reversal so that we would go our way opposite of the other groups or jump further than the usual itinerary (Cauldron started further away east is a totally different site with awesome corals, which adds up to the kind of funpark dive that is the classic cauldron arena then the shotgun).

Cauldron before cauldron :
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Cauldron sandy arena :
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Tatawa besar has always been a favorite for shooting its orange corals fields, on a 3rd dive the last day, the current was getting harduous but it looked it attracted a lot of fish down below. Deeper and deeper the fish looked denser, I stopped chasing fish a little before 40m as I realized it was bit too deep for a 3rd dive of the day, but still it was mesmerizing to see such a sweetlips or snapper concentration, although O couldn't take shots because of my "buddy" somehow bumping into the schools of fish... duh...

Still remains the orange corals :
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After which karang Makasar was on the program, even though I’m not a fan of the manta chase, I had some luck chasing after an eagle ray, I bumped into the first manta of the trip.
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I thought Siaba besar was a better site for wide angle than macro for which it is known for. At least 3 big, really massive black frogfish that don’t display anything but a blob with a macro lens but would have been a highly praised subject with a close up wide angle lens which I didn’t have during this dive since Nico promised me frogfish without informing about the size.
Again humps of various fish schooling such as sweetlips, bigeyes and countless turtles more than you can even shake a stick at. I was really pissed off not fitting a wider lens.
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Probably one of the highlight of the trip, a kind of experience you only get on a liveaboard is waking up for what will be the best day and realizing you’re surrounded with manta rays feeding at surface. It took only 10 minutes for everybody to get their masks and fins and jump overboard and see that...


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Some silly people even forgot to pump the vacuum of their camera housing which therefore caused a leak and damaged some functions of the cameras, fortunately still usable after that. You want to know who’s that silly people : that’s me.

Nevertheless we could carry on to Castle and crystal rock later on. Castle rock was currenty as usual and heavy on sharks, especially with big gravid grey reef mamas. No images though as you really need to be superclose to get decent photos, so I rather focused on the fish hiding from the current.

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It was the first time I dived Crystal with no current at all, Nico decided to reverse the direction of the dive since current permitted in order to look for a resident eagle ray, we didn’t find it but instead tons of fish schooling, and three mantas circling over us near probably 5m deep while we were already around 20m deep, so no way approaching them at fisheye shooting distance.
Instead I had a party focusing on the tons of fish around.

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Finally we ended back to LBJ, all of us wishing for another 2 or 3 days more, as much as the participants and the crew had been enjoying the 5 days altogether as a jolly good party.
As a final note that may contribute to the tips recommandations : nobody seemed to know how much to give the boat crew on a french boat, we left a million IDR as it seemed a good round number ... a few days later, reading back DDKs liveaboard price inclusion on their website, I noticed that they advised giving a 25USD/20EUR tip in the end representing less than 5% of the cost, which personally I find a bit low but is in NO WAY what some people and US liveaboards would recommend.
Food for thought : maybe the french don't wait for the customers to pay their employees?

Would I recommend this Liveaboard : a big YES absolutely when you're not looking for high class accomodations or being pampered, when you're emphasizing in social/friendly relations.
The staff shows much flexibility and empathy to one's needs and wishes, whether you are an experienced diver and you don't want to be regimented, or you are a novice and you look for safety first while being encouraged in taking your diving a step further.

So that was time then for me to move on to serious macro in Bali with my favorite dive guide in Tulamben, the extraordinary Ajiex Dharma.

To be ctd
 
Not good Luko,
Your detail report with amazing shots is not good.
Just make me jealous, and discourage us to write a report and even going there
Nah, I don't believe you Wisnu :)
Where are you going in december : Bali or further?
 
thank you very much Ludovic for your great report ( and beautiful pictures ) !!
 
That said if you take some time there’s always something special creeping there while others are looking into the blue. Like… woooooot ????!!!

View attachment 483468

1/2....

What? Like who hasn't seen a blue ring octopus with it's rings shining? :happywave:


Would I recommend this Liveaboard : a big YES absolutely when you're not looking for high class accommodations or being pampered, when you're emphasizing in social/friendly relations.

IN FRENCH ??? :rant: Merde....

- Bill
 
What? Like who hasn't seen a blue ring octopus with it's rings shining? :happywave:
Nope, never seen one on Batu Bolong at 10AM, neither on such a colorful reef. sorry to disappoint, Dr..Molamola I suppose. .
IN FRENCH ??? :rant: Merde....
I tried to write in politically correct N/American language, but I'm not that fluent in this strange lingo.
So in straightforward language it says "stay away from us the beautiful divers, you aircon addicts, american tippers, serial smartphoners"..
 
Out of my procrastination, posts in other threads regarding Komodo rang my alarm bell : I had to write up that dive report before anyone gets tired about it or prefers to argue about tipping or not tipping Indonesian guides.

Let’s call that cross reporting.

Part 2 Komodo LiveAboard - Dragon Dive Komodo

So after leaving Kalimaya we had the choice between taking a ferry to Labuan Bajo or flying back to Bali then Labuan Bajo. Wife selected the second option, much more expensive and finally more eventful than the Indonesian ferry ride. What woman says… so be it.

Back now to Dragon Dive Komodo where I spent 5days diving last year, back for a short liveaboard that was initially 4D/3N stretched to 5D/4N on the proposition of the management because we couldn’t leave on the first day as early as it was planned and therefore missed one dive, so in the end we had 1 day, 1 night and 1 dive more than planned .
It was then time to meet up with the french instructors : Nico we befriended last year who with Paul another French instructor veteran from the Gilis & R4, were assigned to direct the liveaboard.

We had booked the only suite in a small liveaboard that also had a double room as well as 2*4 guests dorms. Our 8 divers party was quite young 4 were less than 25 yo, international (Argentinian, Spanish, Brit, German Swiss, Israeli and yes French) and unexperienced for the most (4 post beginners with less than 15 dives formed a group, the rest 2 instructors had more than 500 dives each, me even more and an AOW with 50 dives teamed up for our group).

Meet the group and the boat. (Bill, pls steer away with your disobliging comments only triggered by the fact you’re getting older everyday. )

View attachment 483460

The “Yoshi” is a small liveaboard on two levels, we had the privilege to dwell upstairs which is the level for the captain’s cabin, the dining space and the only suite accom on the board, while the dive deck and the other accoms are located on the base floor.

First dive around 8AM depending on the tides, breakfast, second dive around 11AM, lunch then an afternoon dive starting in between 2:30 and 4PM or a night dive at 6:30PM, dinner then time to socialize around a card game or a display of photos taken from the day, discussion about the best configuration for diving the sites on the next day. Some days also included a dragon trek on Rinca or a hill trek right on the island some stupid guy half reduced to ashes a month earlier as he wanted to set fire places for a wedding photo shooting. Really : what a jerk…

The diving? Well you all know central and north Komodo, lots corals, high visibility, blue water, plenty of fish
On the first days we dived Batu Tengah which I really like for the seafans displayed around the pinnacle raising up the surface and teh spectacular corals all around even deeper.

View attachment 483461

View attachment 483462

View attachment 483463

Peak season means lotsa divers in peak season too : the boon of being on a liveaboard is that you can beat the daytrip crowds somehow… as it seems they’re getting earlier and earlier to the sites, thanks to the use of speedboats. Batu Bolong is a jacuzzi nightmare from 9AM to 3PM.
though it still provides one of the most spectacular diving in the park.

Nico on Batu Bolong :
View attachment 483464

The usual anthias soup :
View attachment 483465

Batu Bolong north side emerging from the crack, which isn't bad either when the current shift allows :
View attachment 483466

The fusilier school orphan from their regular GT predator
View attachment 483467

That said if you take some time there’s always something special creeping there while others are looking into the blue. Like… woooooot ????!!!

View attachment 483468

1/2....

Great report and photos. Many thanks.
 

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