2 deaths at Gordon Rocks in 2012

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DiveTheGalapagos

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I've written on Scubaboard and discussed privately that I've experienced more challenging conditions at Gordon Rocks than anywhere up north where the reputation suggests otherwise. There have been 2 deaths at Gordon Rocks in 2012, one in Feb and one today, both out with land-based dive operators who do not have permits (patentes) to dive. The Park still looks the other way as all permits are not yet finalized for land based operators and politically, it's not too wise for anyone to rid a Galapagueno of a way to earn a living when things are in a state of flux, as they often are. I know a lot of people try to get the lowest price possible and obviously live to tell the tale, but I would wholeheartedly encourage anyone heading to Galapagos for land-based diving to stick with Scuba Iguana. They are professional and legal. And they won't allow you dive Gordon Rocks without 30 logged dives. I've known of illegals who took discovery dives there, even down to 90 ft because there was a whale shark the rest of the group wanted to see. Yes Scuba Iguana cost more because the less expensive illegals don't have to pay thousands for a permit, onboard safety equipment, insurance, etc. And then there's the educated desire to be prepared by having trained dive guides onboard.

If you're a 25 year old back packer, you probably don't care and will opt for the savings. But the vast majority of deaths over the years in Galapagos are people in their 50's who have issues they're unaware of before diving. Most get chalked up to heart attacks. I've always been amazed that, given the number of divers that do dive Galapagos each year, there aren't more incidents given the lack of professionalism in so many of the land-based operators in particular. There has been no death on a liveaboard since the high profile case in Jan 11 which I feel was most likely panic given her age, the 2000 psi in her tank and the site she was diving. The incidents that happen on land based dives are barely heard of beyond Galapagos.

The man in February who died at Gordon Rocks was alive at the surface, but there was no oxygen on the boat nor anyone trained in CPR. By the time they got help from a nearby cruise, he was gone. I'm not saying people can't die with Scuba Iguana, but there is oxygen onboard and people trained and regularly refreshed in EFR. I look at the extra cost as insurance. Scuba Iguana has been operational for around 20 years and all you hear is good. Says a lot. No I'm not naming illegal operator names. Some I actually like a lot as people. If you're booking your own land-based diving and considering anyone else, ask to see their 'patente'. That's their permit. And I wish even that guaranteed more than it does, but it's a start. It means they're legal so you don't run the risk of being turned back because some Park Ranger decides to enforce the rules that day.
 
Gordon Rocks was decidedly worth the trip. When doing land based- I also strongly recommend ScubaIguana. You need to stay with guys that have intimate knowledge of this very unusual zone.

AnUnderwaterVolcano.jpg


This is a dive in the remnants of a volcano cone. On one dive we saw huge Mobula Rays, schools of Hammerheads, we saw a Shark trying to catch a Seal as we drifted along in 35fsw at 1:20 into our dive. Just spectacular. We usually do it 2 times during our weeks of diving with SI.

Seriously- look at this dive brief map. Depending on what the current is doing, the 6 dotted (reversible) lines show the theoretical paths and dive routes. There are nutty lateral currents that come and go, and heavy downwellings where I have never imagined such could occur- appearing in the middle of the crater- seemingly out of nowhere. You can be pushed down on the 90' sandy bottom in just seconds from 60fsw. This crossing of the crater can occur towards :30+ in the dive, so many people are in no position to recover from a failure to react and then maintain any proper reserve pressure.

Pepo was our DM from Scuba Iguana. I felt and reacted to the downwelling that my wife didn't. Since he knew that I really liked her, Pepo nabbed her at 75' (descending rapidly) and slowly brought her up to our level. She was now dealing with it so he waved bye-bye and directed her to ascend at about :45 into the dive. Our other divers had ascended to the boat after only :25. Pepo and I spent another 45 mins (being expertly ghosted by the boat in very choppy seas), ascending at 1:30. I was on fumes, of course he was at 1200psi.

You don't have to spend huge money and 3 days of your life on a liveabaord crossing to Darwin Wolf.

Just don't do it with some fly by night idiots. This is not a simple dive. Scuba Iguana is far and away the choice.
 
I dove Gordon Rocks once this year. The first dive was beautiful and calm with great visibility and plenty of life. The second dive one hour later was a completely different story. We experienced one of the strong downwellings RoatanMan talks about. It was a battle to ascend, one that I would not choose to do on a daily basis.
On this dive one of the divers hyperventilated from fighting the current and blacked out. She began to sink and her regulator fell out of her mouth, unbeknownst to her boyfriend who was busy taking pictures. Alvaro, owner of Eagle Ray Dive(one of the licensed operators for Gordon Rocks) was close enough to his divers and knowledgeable enough to replace the mouthpiece and bring her safely to the surface with the rest of the group closely following. This case had a good ending. She was breathing at the surface and recovered well. She did go to the chamber for a checkup after. Had it not been for the guide in this case there would be three total fatalities at Gordon Rocks. The woman in question was in her mid 20's.
Gordon Rocks can be a straightforward dive. It can also be a potentially dangerous dive if you are diving with people that don't know it and the currents and conditions that can exist there. I encourage everyone to pay the higher prices and dive with shops like Scuba Iguana and Eagle Ray that employ trained staff that are current in their certifications and carry oxygen on board.
It would be nice to see more regulations in place. Two deaths at one dive site in the space of a few months are two too many.
 
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