Technology_Shark
Guest
Does anyone know the exact PSI output of the LP port on a first stage? I am an airbrush artist and would like to use a couple of my old tanks to airbrush with.
1st stage technical question
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Jimmer
Contributor
approx. 145 PSI depending on the manufacturer.
I think that most are between 130 and 150, but they can be adjusted, within limits.
How much psi do you need?
How much psi do you need?
Most LP ports are close to 130 psi but if you need more or less your LDS can adjust the pressure output to what you need.
-Kstnbike
-Kstnbike
Jimmer
Contributor
I have a small regulator that I got from Home Depot, I attached an inflator whip adaptor to the inlet, and a regular industrial quick connect to the output, and I can then adjust it to 90 PSI to use for an air nailer. A setup like that would be ideal for an airbrush.
Technology_Shark:
Hello T Shark,
As you have noticed, getting an EXACT answer to this question is not possible as a regulator's IP can vary from manufacturer to manufacturer and even the exact same make/model can vary. They are usually around 135 +/- 10 psi, but some of the older regulators were around 120 and some other models such as a Poseidon might be around 175 psi. The best thing to do is get an IP gage and measure your first stage's IP it to see if it is within the parameter you need.
Here is a link that tell you how to make one or buy one. http://www.scubaboard.com/showthread.php?p=2925792#post2925792
Good luck,
couv
The range is 120 to 145 psi for most manufacturers.
Balanced first stages will have a very stable IP while in an unbalanced first stage the IP will vary from about 140 psi to 120 psi as tank pressure drops.
I also use scuba air for airbrushing. I use an old Conshelf XII first stage. They tend to sell cheap on e-bay as they only have 2 LP ports rather than the three that most divers need. The good news is that they are very durable and need little or no service (for air brush use) even after a decade or so and best of all, there are enough threads on the spring adjustment pad that you can screw it out enough to reduce the IP as low as 10 or 15 psi is no problem at all. The spring pad has a large slot for a screw driver in it (On the COnshelf design it's located on the end opposite the yoke) and is easily screwed in or out to adjust pressure. You will still need an IP guage to set the pressure as desired, but it is quick and easy to adjust.
The flow rate of any scuba regulator is comparatively low at those IP's, but is still adequate to support a small air brush. I also use scuba air with an automotive paint gun as well as my detail gun operating at about 25-30 psi - I just connect the scuba regulator to a portable air tank that then acts as a header tank that supports the higher flow rates needed. The scuba regulator then has time to recover between brush strokes and maintain the pressure.
Scuba air works very well for air brushing as it is very dry and water droplets are not an issue.
Balanced first stages will have a very stable IP while in an unbalanced first stage the IP will vary from about 140 psi to 120 psi as tank pressure drops.
I also use scuba air for airbrushing. I use an old Conshelf XII first stage. They tend to sell cheap on e-bay as they only have 2 LP ports rather than the three that most divers need. The good news is that they are very durable and need little or no service (for air brush use) even after a decade or so and best of all, there are enough threads on the spring adjustment pad that you can screw it out enough to reduce the IP as low as 10 or 15 psi is no problem at all. The spring pad has a large slot for a screw driver in it (On the COnshelf design it's located on the end opposite the yoke) and is easily screwed in or out to adjust pressure. You will still need an IP guage to set the pressure as desired, but it is quick and easy to adjust.
The flow rate of any scuba regulator is comparatively low at those IP's, but is still adequate to support a small air brush. I also use scuba air with an automotive paint gun as well as my detail gun operating at about 25-30 psi - I just connect the scuba regulator to a portable air tank that then acts as a header tank that supports the higher flow rates needed. The scuba regulator then has time to recover between brush strokes and maintain the pressure.
Scuba air works very well for air brushing as it is very dry and water droplets are not an issue.
Tim Greaves
Contributor
Jimmer:
I just use one of those 5 gallon air tanks that you fill at your local gas station.. I have a pressure regulator on it so it puts out exactly 36 psi to my airbrush.. When the pressure in the tank drops below 36 psi then I just refill the tank.. It will paint a whole model on one air tank..
Jimmer
Contributor
Nice idea Tim. I just may steal that from you when I do some painting on my motorcycle. I have done some automotive painting in the past, using my 60 gallon shop compressor, but I don't have the proper desicant dryer for a paint gun. I didn't care much when I was just painting old trailers etc. but on a motorcycle, I think I'll expand your idea and maybe use a 10 or 15 gallon air pig to handle the higher volume.
Tim Greaves
Contributor
Jimmer:
Should work great.. It gives you a nice steady supply of air..
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