Search results

You are correct: the O2 cleaning *process* is supposed to be the very last step. Detergent by itself does not equal o2-clean. Nor does O2-clean equal a single step. And the detergent step is never the last step: you have at least rinse and dry. So nothing that anyone described violates that...

(I hate the way this forum mangles YouTube links: the part starts at 1:58 and goes for 8 seconds. Here’s the link that starts there.) For those who couldn’t be bothered to fast-forward: Like I said, it doesn’t help that I was already irritated. But also: you can simplify something, or you...

Thank you for the clarification. Sidenote: capitalization exists for a reason. At least then I would’ve known to look for a specific chemical instead of suspecting a typo. Yes. Marginally. Your entire post screamed vague and lazy corner-cutting to me. Your reply makes it a little less vague...

OK, you picked a very bad time to write this reply: I’m still in a bad mood after writing the reply above! First of all, this is for steel tanks only. None of this should be done for aluminum tanks. Second of all, I wouldn’t characterize any of this as “slosh some cleaning solution around”...

So, with no direct knowledge of what’s going on, you voluntarily make a strong statement saying that “The tank would Definitely Not be oxygen-clean after an acid-wash”? Why would you do *that*? There is so much voodoo and superstition surrounding “oxygen clean“. And for me, that is the biggest...

Same gauge and same price as DGX. My experience with Piranha has been very uneven. I’ve never had anything but positive experiences with DGX. I’m not saying I wouldn’t buy something from Piranha if I needed to: I have before and likely will again. However, I know where I would prefer to buy...

Wow is that expensive! For me, the first place I always go is Dive Gear Express. They don’t carry everything, but what they do carry is usually exactly what you want to buy. If they have it, I’m pretty likely to buy it from there. Here is the generic one they carry. It’s all of $17...

Others have harped on it, but I’m going to as well because the information is so inaccurate. This statement above is 100% incorrect. You are making a very fundamental flaw and comparing compressible gas to incompressible liquid. You’re right in that 1 gallon of water going into a hose means 1...

If you’re planning on doing more than one dive a day, it’s usually traditional to use a set of doubles that will handle what you’re looking for. So, if you’re doing two dives and can’t do it with a single set of LP 50s, do it with a set of LP72 or HP 100. I mean, if you want to have a couple of...

tl;dr at bottom. Yup. Both statements can be equally true. My personal belief is that both statements *are* true. Increasing your personal capabilities, understanding your own equipment, etc. all lead to being a safer diver, which lowers the chance of injury. However, if you do not do either...

Practically, IMHO, none. I’d never own LP tanks without being able to get at least a *moderate* overfill. Otherwise I’d buy the HP (rough) equivalent and get the capacity. However, there are tanks that don’t have a direct HP equivalent: LP50, LP72, and Faber LP85 (with the narrower diameter)...

Umm… dive it? :) Seriously, these are industrial-grade cylinders. It will outlive you, even with its flaws… ETA: here’s a tank I bought. Cleaned off the corrosion. Hydroed it: passed just fine. Do not worry about such microscopic details…...

As someone who has put some time into creating a list of tank specifications, I can agree that what we see in print often has very little resemblance to what we might experience in the water. :( I’ve seen tanks manufactured by the same company (Faber), but distributed by a different company...

You say that ironically, but I think most people would say that earnestly. Why would you invest more time, effort or energy into a task than you have to that you’re only going to do once? Or very infrequently? And given that the safety statistics for scuba are both really very, very good and...

I’ve experienced the same thing and I have been told it is a tip thing. They feel that if they don’t take care of your gear every time you won’t feel obligated to tip them, and they want — need, really — to be tipped. My problem was: I didn’t like the way they were treating my gear…. :(

I swear I read that twice as “aloe – infused Chairman“. And I thought, “who in the world wants to infuse Pete with aloe, and what exactly do they want to do with him?“ I’m not at all sure I want the answer to any of those questions. ETA: In fact, I am certain I do not want the answer to those...

My understanding is that Eagle does not actually build the “compressor” per se. They buy a different manufacturer’s compressor head, usually Bauer, and then just assemble all of the pieces around it. Mako compressors are similar: either Bauer or (more recently) Reavell in their case. I’ve seen...

That is a point worth repeating. The current Faber coating process is different than the older process. That’s why I’m careful to call them epoxy tanks, *not* painted. Painted tanks are awful. OMS-branded Faber tanks are well known for rusting. The yellow is a dead giveaway: the epoxy has...

I'm a huge fan of hot-dip-galvanized tanks. I'm a pretty big *opponent* of painted tanks, *especially* steel tanks. However, the Faber epoxy tanks aren't really "painted". You can read about it in more detail, but it's a galvanized/epoxy/clearcoat process. It's *very* durable. Objectively...

Here is a quick write-up of my carbon monoxide (CO) calibration / bump-gas setup. I had previously written up my experience as a comment in a different thread (see below for details) but it's poorly named and spread across multiple posts, so I thought I would combine it all in a single...