Why name brands?

[John C. Ratliff]

Why not just buy a sheet of neoprene and neoprene cement and make your own hood, boots and gloves like we did in the 1960s?

Concerning gear, I have a set of Fins I got from Goodwill that were Aqualung department store (probably Costco) Fins. I took them into the pool, and found that for easy kicking, they were adequate, but if any power was placed on the fin, it basically folded and provided no further kick force.

I have these masks from the same source, and had the strap buckle break with normal handling. I looked, and the bar that held the strap was made of plastic. I had three of these mask buckles break on me (I test mask/snorkle combos in the pool). Scuba and free diving masks have much more robust retention systems, many of which still use stainless steel buckle parts.

Masks-1 by John Ratliff, on Flickr
These masks are decades old.

IMG_2455 by John Ratliff, on Flickr
These two masks suffered catastrophic buckle failures.

IMG_2456 by John Ratliff, on Flickr
This is the plastic part which failed.

If you want good equipment, look to your LDS rather than a department store lookalike.

SeaRat

 

[thewalrus]

I typically dive dry - and while my drysuit is absolutely name-brand / bought through an LDS, I'm not as picky about my insulating layers. I know a companies sell fleece and it's usually high-quality and very warm. But for me, I've found that a good pair of jogging pants and a decent top work well enough. I'm sure I'd be a little warmer with a full length onesie from DUI - but for the difference in price I can't justify it.

 

[John C. Ratliff]

I typically dive dry - and while my drysuit is absolutely name-brand / bought through an LDS, I'm not as picky about my insulating layers. I know a companies sell fleece and it's usually high-quality and very warm. But for me, I've found that a good pair of jogging pants and a decent top work well enough. I'm sure I'd be a little warmer with a full length onesie from DUI - but for the difference in price I can't justify it.

There will be a difference in buoyancy too if the fleece is heavy. When I was diving a dry suit (Aquala rubber dry suit in the 1970s), I wore a Farmer John wet suit bottom under the dry suit, with a sweater and a fabric woven hood (actually a stocking cap that could be made into a hood). That was very warm, and had the value that if there was a minor leak in the dry suit, most of the warmth would be maintained.

SeaRat

 

[dead dog]

It's all well and good to criticize the guy seeking out bargain solutions, to often astronomic dive shop pricing. Having worked at shops when I was a youth, I can tell you that there was never a list price that they didn't like and want to make their own; and that a good deal of that "genuine" marine-grade hardware (bolt snaps, carabiners, all manner of things, at two to three times the price), came directly from the local ACE or OSH. I saw that first hand.

When I first began diving, there were far fewer bell and whistle options than today; and most people that I knew did go on a scavenger hunt for all manner of gear. I certainly did at the time; had to. Some of the cheaper solutions did indeed work in the short term; others were jettisoned. My first cheap-o suit lasted more than a year -- and through a ton of cold water diving. Sure, I got cold; learned a few things as a result; but so f**king what?

There was little budget for anything else; but I didn't skip on the regulators. I had to draw a line somewhere; and I haven't regretted that. Still have those, after suits, etc have come and gone.

Just because someone, at yet another reeducation camp in Guanzhong, slaps a diver's flag on some neoprene boxer briefs; or gloves to be distributed by several well-known US brands, is absolutely no assurance of quality . . .

I agree, when I started I saved up and bought a brand new US Diver's two hose regulator.

I got some rubber sheets of neoprene and Black Magic (glue) and with the help of my friend made a wetsuit. Yeah, we had to use corn starch or baby powder to put it on. This was before lined suite was around.

Next, a stop at the Army-Navy surplus store ( Pally's or Long Beach) to pick up some tanks and valves to go with them. Cleaned the inside of the tanks with a homemade whip. Had the tanks hydro tested, good to go.
There was no VIP at that time.

Next stop to Newport Beach marine hardware store to get all the stainless steel and webbing to make a harness. Used a flat piece of aluminum to make the back blate, cut holes into it for the webbing, stainless steel hose clamps to hold the tanks to the backplate.

A final stop to the Aquic Center to get the tanks air-filled.

The weights we made our self, fins and mask bought elsewhere.

As long as the tanks and valves held air and with a pretty good wet suit and a new regulator we were ready to go diving.

As Sam Miller would say "the daze of our dives"

 

[W W Meixner]

Here's another little secret. Almost all of the dive gear comes from a handful of manufacturers and then gets rebranded. Look closely at different items and you'll find some are identical and others the same, but with better quality raw products.

I want what works. There's three thing that I would always buy from actual scuba name brands. Tanks, regs and computers. Everything else is personal preference and there's no reason to not use products unrelated to scuba. Many do, including myself.

CA...

''Branded Generic''...just about all the ''major'' on-line dealers are using these products...

I use them...as well as thousands of others...nothing wrong with them...and in some cases...out-perform the big brands...at a fraction of the cost...not to mention easy availability of parts/courses/use of standard tools...for those who prefer to DIY...

DGX...DRIS...HOG...Dive Rite...Deep Six...great gear...you could always pay more...but in most cases...more benefit from more cost is not there...

As well...when it becomes time for replacements...your re-branded generic has more than paid for itself...and with a little care/cleaning and maintenance...can be made to last as long or longer than the $$$$ brands...

The best is always that which serves its intended purpose...is durable and of good quality...and purchased for ''your'' best price...that is not necessarily the most expensive...

DGX...my preferred exposure protection supplier...and the Dollar Store...works for me...

W.M...

 

[TuckerIdaho]

Bolts and stuff for camera rigs all comes from a local boat shop.

Ahhh the most marked up industry ever. Become familiar with Mcmastercarr, because that's where it all comes from.

 

[GameChanger]

I admit I drank the Big Blue H Kool-Aid and got me one of those fancy overpriced Inifinty BP/W setups.
I did buy a Deep 6 Signature regulator though! Saved a ton of $$$ compared to Apeks, ScubaPro. etc.
My Money. My Choice.