Question Servicing a 90deg Swivel Elbow Connector?

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Pearlman

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Hey Folks!

The Apeks 90deg Elbow Swivel Connector on my long hose primary looks like it needs servicing. Earlier it used to freely swing my 2nd stage into a mouthpiece down position when in the water, saving it from a freeflow whenever I removed it from my mouth and extended my hand out in a primary donate action. And on land I could rotate it around its axis to swing quietly freely with an easy tap. Now it seems to be a little stiffer and resistant to swinging around.

I am planning to open it tomorrow and swap O-rings and lube anything that needs lubing - but googling around did not throw any instructional videos and gotchas about it.
Wondering if somebody here has experience doing it and can list the sequence of steps and O-ring sizes required so that I get it right without hiccups at first try …

Thanks in advance for sharing your expertise and experience as always!
 
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I suspect the orings would be the same you’d have on the hose
 
The Oring on the 2nd stage side connector is of course the LP hose Oring 010 (the other 360 and hemispherical swivels have 4 Orings in total !) but I was hoping to open the entire assembly and find out what the connector that plugs into the 2nd stage side rotates around - some ball bearings that perhaps need lubing?

I tried every Allen key in my arsenal and none of them fit on the 2nd stage side of the connector at least, and I don’t know if this thing needs some tool inserted from the hose side of the connector (aka a colonoscopy) …

Edit: Come to think of it, all LP hoses have the same rotating connector so I guess maybe there is nothing to open on a fixed 90degree elbow and no ball bearings either. I’ll get to try it in the water next week and then I’ll find out …
 
The swivel has another dynamic oring (like all swiveling 2nd stage hoses) on the 2nd stage side, as you realize in your edit
Double hook is the tool you need to fish it out, IIRC should be an 011 on that side
The double hook pick is one of the most useful, and yet most dangerous picks in your scuba repair inventory. It has the unique ability to reach and retrieve o-rings that lie deep in an internal groove of a regulator or hose end. This post will discuss the way to use a double hook pick without irretrievably damaging your gear.
View attachment 512131
The reason the double hook pick exists is to reach inside a regulator or hose end to snag an o-ring that a straight or curved pick simply won’t lift. Those who try to use a pick other than a double hook inevitably do one or both of the following: spear the o-ring, damaging it irretrievably, and/or scratch the groove of the equipment with the point. That’s the reason that plastic and brass picks are so popular. They are softer than the chrome plating of your equipment, and are less likely to scratch it as a result. Indeed, spearing and sacrificing an oring with a curved pick is a standard technique for many technicians. Yet it still doesn’t take much to scratch the soft brass of a regulator body with any metal pick.

Here, a ham-fisted technician chose to use a hard tool to pry out an old diaphragm, scratching the surface not once, but three times as he removed the stiff rubber part during service.
View attachment 512132
You need the right tool for the job!
An o-ring sits in a “gland” in whatever piece of equipment in which it is used. A gland is merely a groove with a smooth surface, against which the o-ring seals. It needs to be relatively smooth, so that whatever gas pressure is being sealed does not leak through the microscopic crevices created by a rough or scratched surface. At low pressures with soft o-rings (i.e., LP hoses with duro 70 o-rings), there is a lot of tolerance for abuse and corrosion, because the o-ring is often static, or not subject to much movement, in the part that gets abused.

Take a LP hose end, for example. The o-ring that seals the second stage to the hose sits in a groove (gland) in the tube beneath the sealing nut. Digging this out with a curved steel pick may deeply scar the gland, but the o-ring sits there generally unmoving, molding itself to the scarred land. The outer side of the o-ring is what seals against the regulator connection, and as long as the inside of the reg barrel isn’t scratched, your second stage may seal just fine.
View attachment 512133
But at high pressures, it’s a different matter. Scratching a similarly shaped groove inside an old Mk5 that you are trying to service will mean 3000 psi gas inevitably leaking into the ambient pressure chamber, giving you a bubbling first stage or worse. The o-ring has a harder duro (to handle the higher tank pressure) and is less able to mold itself to the scratched gland. Getting this o-ring out for replacement requires a double hook pick, and deft technique.
But a double hook pick made out of plastic or brass simply doesn’t have enough strength to last long without losing its shape and becoming useless. A steel pick will do the job, but since it is stronger than brass it will mar a brass reg. In fact, a steel pick will even scratch titanium! Using a straight or curved steel pick is a recipe for disaster, especially when a brass pick will do just as well. But when you need a double hook to reach inside a recess, the only suitable double hook pick is steel.

A double hook pick has a safe side:View attachment 512134

...and a dangerous side (point):
View attachment 512135
So when I buy a new double hook pick, the first thing I do is mark the handle so that I know what side is resting on the o-ring land inside my equipment. I draw a line down the handle exactly opposite the point of the hook, and hatch “the dangerous side” with a marking pen. Whenever I can see hatching, I know I mustn’t put any pressure on the groove.
View attachment 512137
Conversely, when I roll my pick handle so the hatching is underneath, I know the smooth curved side of the hook is lowermost inside the groove.
View attachment 512138

Properly using a double hook pick, then, requires making use of both the safe side and the right angle formed by the second hook. The pick is placed adjacent to the o-ring, by pushing it down into the groove with the point protected. With the sharp tip lowermost (underneath the level of the o-ring), the handle is then moved to one side so the sharp tip passes under the o-ring but just above the sealing surface of the groove.
View attachment 512139 View attachment 512140
At this point, the handle is rotated until the tip appears on the other side of the o-ring.
View attachment 512143
This can be done from the near side of the o-ring or the far side. The side chosen will determine the side to which the handle is swung. Here are pics of a hypothetical o-ring extraction from the far side, similar to the diagrams above:
View attachment 512144 View attachment 512145 View attachment 512146

Here is an actual extraction from the other side of an oring. Most hose ends can be serviced with a curved pick: it'll reach the o-ring without digging. But this particular hose has a very deep placement of the groove. Only a double hook will reach.

Position the hook so the point is lowermost, and then roll the handle slightly away, to keep the point away from the sealing surface of the groove.
View attachment 512147
Slide it into position (in this case on the near side of the o-ring), and press the smooth curve of the bottom of the hook into the crevice between the gland and o-ring. Note the slight bend in the wire from the pressure exerted to force the curve into the crevice.
View attachment 512148
The tip of the hook is now deep in the groove on the near side of the o-ring.
View attachment 512149
Now change the angle of the handle so the tip of the hook slides under the o-ring, and rotate the handle away until the sharp tip can just be seen on the other side of the o-ring.
View attachment 512150
At this point, angle the handle a second time, (in the opposite direction) until the exposed tip of the hook protrudes from the hose end fitting.
View attachment 512151
Rotate the handle even more away from you until the o-ring twists, and you can begin sliding the handle under the o-ring (to move the sharp tip away from both your fingertips and the equipment),
View attachment 512152
and then pop the o-ring out with the shaft of the tool.
View attachment 512154
You can get one from scuba tools, scubagaskets or, you xan make your own as per this guide
Thread 'How to make a double hook pick'
Info - How to make a double hook pick
 
I have a double hook, but I don’t think that the inner Oring has anything to do with the free rotation… unless it is worn out, but to my naked eye doesn’t look like it. Is safe to lube it? IIRC the 1st stage side Oring is never lubed as a precaution against extrusion, but what about the smaller 010 Oring on the 2nd stage side?

Edit: Just realized that lubing it will get grease into my 2nd stage … so no. I’ll just replace it anyways and see …
 
I have a double hook, but I don’t think that the inner Oring has anything to do with the free rotation… unless it is worn out, but to my naked eye doesn’t look like it. Is safe to lube it? IIRC the 1st stage side Oring is never lubed as a precaution against extrusion, but what about the smaller 010 Oring on the 2nd stage side?

Edit: Just realized that lubing it will get grease into my 2nd stage … so no. I’ll just replace it anyways and see …
The outer „sleeve“ that threads onto the 2nd stage is the swiveling part, it rotates around the neck of the middle part where the oring goes
The oring seals against the inside of the inlet barrel, due to rotation it’s a dynamic application, lube is preferable

What can be hindering the free rotation of the swivel is probably some corrosion or other particles like sand or salt (between the outer sleeve and inner barrel it’s „rivited“ on)

for both the swivel and the hose take the oring(s) out, dip edge into your favorite light acid bath (for the hose use a piece of tape to block intrusion); generously (just a dab) lube and install oring(s)
 

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