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Info Technical Discussion | HOTDIVE Diving Equipment Development
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Thanks Nick, I’m interested in rubber hoses. I’ll have to measure to be sure about lengths, but probably 7’ and 24” regulator hoses, 24” and 9” hp hoses, (I think) 18” and 30” inflator hoses.
Edit: I should add, with shipping to Australia. And sorry, hoses are pretty boring. I’m sure you’d much rather talk about regulator design and manafacturing.
Thanks for the advice. I’ll check out Scubagaskets and GiDive. Probably better (but maybe not) for me than shipping from the States. If you could share your list of o’rings with me that would be great. And no, it’s not a Balanced Adjustable… I wish. Sorry for the confusion - I meant to say (and have since edited the post) my Hollis second stages were balanced and adjustable.Scubagaskets is probably your better bet on this specific topic
Big divergence from thread but here’s what I do (and recommend), even tho I’m in the EU and have easy access to OEM Service kits, I too have a big SP collection:
- get the orings you need in 50x packs from SG (I have a list that might help you); McMaster is a good (maybe even better price wise) alternative if you’re US based; maybe for Aussies it’s all the same once you factor the shipping
- I get OEM diaphragms from GiDive, along with HP seats (17s, 2s and 25s), LP seats (250, BA..); they only allow that through their EU shop — not sure which one you’ll have to deal with
If that alternative didn’t work SGs also have them but not OEM
- i was able to get a couple spare 2nd stage diaphragms from JonasDive; they used to list singular components but now they have a single item for SP parts, basically „send us PNs and we’ll send you a quote“ kinda shop item; they stock OEM parts as well
- for the r195 (or any R series), just buy a sheet of EDPM or FKM sheet (like 10x10cmx 1.6-2mm) and a leather punch (9/16“ I think) and you got 100+ seats; if you don’t flip them between services
I found this approach to be way less wasteful when all I need from a service kit is one oring out of 12 and a LP/HP seat (esp 2nd stage kits)
I basically have a 50-70x service consumables for the price of 10-20x service kits (I also have about 30 OEM Service kits stashed but I see them as a „bad“ initial investment — only the mk10 ones are worth it as I can’t find the conical HP seat anywhere 3rd party)
(Reach out if you want any further details)
Did you say you have a BA that you got new!? Pictures please
Edit: a few specific orings on some 1st stage models are impossible to source except with a custom run (or service kits) as they’re not std sizes; most famous out of these is the mk19 (and evo), I personally have a couple kits for mine — @rsingler was able to find a supplier for a custom run in the past and got a nice batch for some users as well
I’d most certainly be interested in getting my hand on a 10-30pack of these if it happens again and would love to chip on for it
Thanks. I visited your website, and you did OK. Good luck!
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HotDive(Hide In Ocean)
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Of course, no problem. When I work on Monday, I can check the detailed information about shipping to Australia for you.
In this thread, I will continue to share some of our products, but I need to organize my thoughts clearly before taking action. Alternatively, if you are currently interested in any specific product of ours, I can make a targeted sharing next time (regarding design and manufacturing).
OP
HotDive(Hide In Ocean)
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Hi elmo, could you please contact me by email or WhatsApp? I need some detailed information. Thank you!
Email address: hotdive.nick@gmail.com
WhatsApp: +86 18925597693
OP
HotDive(Hide In Ocean)
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Our BPW BCDs are made with a 1260D nylon outer shell that provides excellent abrasion resistance. The inner bladder has been treated with a protective coating. With proper use and care, our BCDs remain highly durable and reliable under sunlight. Many of our customers in Malaysia, Indonesia, and Australia — regions with abundant sunshine all year round — are using our BPW BCDs, which is strong proof of their reliable quality.
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HotDive(Hide In Ocean)
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HOTDIVE S1 FIRST STAGE REGULATOR
I’d like to talk about one of the first stage regulator from our product – the Hotdive S1. The biggest strengths of this regulator are its simple structure, reliability, and extremely low maintenance cost. It uses a classic unbalanced piston design with a downstream valve, which makes it very stable and especially suitable for frequent use. In warm and moderate water conditions, its performance remains steady without issues. Because of this “workhorse” durability, the S1 is often chosen by dive centers and training schools as a standard rental unit – it meets the safety needs of beginners while greatly reducing the maintenance burden for dive shops.
What really makes the S1 durable is the use of marine-grade SUS304 stainless steel. Compared with most common brass regulators on the market, stainless steel has higher strength and superior resistance to corrosion. Brass regulators usually rely on chrome plating for protection, and once the plating wears off, the underlying material is easily attacked by seawater, leading to faster degradation and potential safety risks. Stainless steel, on the other hand, has inherent corrosion resistance. Even in high-salinity marine environments, it maintains stability and durability over long-term use, which is why many professional divers and dive shops prefer stainless steel regulators.
From a technical perspective, the S1 supports both YOKE and DIN connectors. It’s built with SUS304 stainless steel and stainless steel springs. The weight is about 640g for YOKE and 511g for DIN, making it compact and lightweight for carrying. It comes with 1 high-pressure port (7/16" 20W UNF) and 4 low-pressure ports (3/8" 24W UNF-2B). The intermediate pressure is 123–138 PSI (8.5–9.5 Bar), with air supply rated at 232 Bar (3364 PSI) for YOKE and 300 Bar (4351 PSI) for DIN. The unit has CE and EN250 certification. Overall the configuration is very standard, reliable, and practical.
In terms of application, the S1 can be considered a true workhorse regulator. It’s especially well-suited for dive shop rentals, training schools, and even personal recreational diving. For beginners, the S1 provides stable air delivery, is straightforward to use, and requires minimal upkeep, making it one of the most common regulators new divers first experience. For recreational divers, while it’s not designed to be a high-end flagship model, its reliability and consistency make it a very reassuring choice for vacations, daily dives, or training sessions.
In my view, the S1 is not built for extreme or technical diving, but with its durability, low cost, and stability, it has become a “classic” in dive centers and schools. In many situations, what divers really need is not the most complex design, but a partner that works reliably every time.
I’d love to hear your thoughts: when choosing a first stage regulator, do you prefer the simplicity and reliability of an unbalanced piston, or the higher performance of balanced piston/diaphragm designs? In your opinion, especially in rental and training environments, is simplicity and durability more important, or is high-end performance the priority? Has anyone here used a similar unbalanced piston regulator, and what has your long-term experience been like in terms of stability, corrosion resistance, and maintenance cycles? Looking forward to your feedback and discussion.
I’d like to talk about one of the first stage regulator from our product – the Hotdive S1. The biggest strengths of this regulator are its simple structure, reliability, and extremely low maintenance cost. It uses a classic unbalanced piston design with a downstream valve, which makes it very stable and especially suitable for frequent use. In warm and moderate water conditions, its performance remains steady without issues. Because of this “workhorse” durability, the S1 is often chosen by dive centers and training schools as a standard rental unit – it meets the safety needs of beginners while greatly reducing the maintenance burden for dive shops.
What really makes the S1 durable is the use of marine-grade SUS304 stainless steel. Compared with most common brass regulators on the market, stainless steel has higher strength and superior resistance to corrosion. Brass regulators usually rely on chrome plating for protection, and once the plating wears off, the underlying material is easily attacked by seawater, leading to faster degradation and potential safety risks. Stainless steel, on the other hand, has inherent corrosion resistance. Even in high-salinity marine environments, it maintains stability and durability over long-term use, which is why many professional divers and dive shops prefer stainless steel regulators.
From a technical perspective, the S1 supports both YOKE and DIN connectors. It’s built with SUS304 stainless steel and stainless steel springs. The weight is about 640g for YOKE and 511g for DIN, making it compact and lightweight for carrying. It comes with 1 high-pressure port (7/16" 20W UNF) and 4 low-pressure ports (3/8" 24W UNF-2B). The intermediate pressure is 123–138 PSI (8.5–9.5 Bar), with air supply rated at 232 Bar (3364 PSI) for YOKE and 300 Bar (4351 PSI) for DIN. The unit has CE and EN250 certification. Overall the configuration is very standard, reliable, and practical.
In terms of application, the S1 can be considered a true workhorse regulator. It’s especially well-suited for dive shop rentals, training schools, and even personal recreational diving. For beginners, the S1 provides stable air delivery, is straightforward to use, and requires minimal upkeep, making it one of the most common regulators new divers first experience. For recreational divers, while it’s not designed to be a high-end flagship model, its reliability and consistency make it a very reassuring choice for vacations, daily dives, or training sessions.
In my view, the S1 is not built for extreme or technical diving, but with its durability, low cost, and stability, it has become a “classic” in dive centers and schools. In many situations, what divers really need is not the most complex design, but a partner that works reliably every time.
I’d love to hear your thoughts: when choosing a first stage regulator, do you prefer the simplicity and reliability of an unbalanced piston, or the higher performance of balanced piston/diaphragm designs? In your opinion, especially in rental and training environments, is simplicity and durability more important, or is high-end performance the priority? Has anyone here used a similar unbalanced piston regulator, and what has your long-term experience been like in terms of stability, corrosion resistance, and maintenance cycles? Looking forward to your feedback and discussion.
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chrisch
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Seriously who cares about your stupid equipement? I would never ever buy anything from a company so useless it cannot correct an infected website even when it has been pointed out to them.
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