Any advice for a true beginner in underwater video with an action cam? Light and Tray stabilizer.

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Hi All!

I am new in this group and total beginner in underwater video. Can I ask your help ?

I will be on Zanzibar Island in a few days, where I'll be doing some freediving and easy diving. The water should be quite clear, and I won’t be diving deep, but I decided to buy a light anyway to improve color rendering. I am an absolute beginner of video
I have just bought (on the way...):
- cheap action cam (Akaso V50x / 100US$)
- cheap torchlight with 8000Lumen and a 120Degree wide beam angle
- Tray stabilizer. Everything is on the way 🤞

I hope this is enough for a really basic setup and that I haven’t forgotten any clamps or brackets. If I understood correctly, I’ll use the 1-inch ball joint to connect the torch to the bracket and all should be included in the Tray stabilizer set.

Has anyone used a similar kit? Any tips on how to use it or beginner-friendly video guides?

Thanks !!

Marco
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Batteries and charger for the lights? On those lights specifically, take care to thoroughly rinse them after every dive. The switches are the weak point. Check out the "Cheap Chinese Video Lights" thread here for more details.

Media (memory cards) for the camera. Two at minimum - they are a wear item, and if you take the card out to download the files to your computer you will eventually leave it in there and find a camera with no memory at the worst possible time. Take one out, put the other in.

Learn how to change settings on the camera so you can experiment, but don't go crazy. Know how to factory reset it when you realize you've gone too far :)

For actual shooting - SLOW DOWN - take your time. Smooth movements.

Make sure you have enough in each video 'clip' to edit around. The beginning and end of the clip will be less steady/smooth than in the middle where you've recovered from seeing something cool and rushed to get the shot.

Watch other's videos and take notice of what you like/dislike about them. Try to recreate the stuff you like.

Don't be a jerk - if you're diving with a group it's easy to turn into *that diver* and hog the good stuff, annoy sealife (and other divers). That also includes light discipline - those lights are bright, and it's easy to blind other divers. And, it's OK to use less than full power.
 
Batteries and charger for the lights? On those lights specifically, take care to thoroughly rinse them after every dive. The switches are the weak point. Check out the "Cheap Chinese Video Lights" thread here for more details.

Media (memory cards) for the camera. Two at minimum - they are a wear item, and if you take the card out to download the files to your computer you will eventually leave it in there and find a camera with no memory at the worst possible time. Take one out, put the other in.

Learn how to change settings on the camera so you can experiment, but don't go crazy. Know how to factory reset it when you realize you've gone too far :)

For actual shooting - SLOW DOWN - take your time. Smooth movements.

Make sure you have enough in each video 'clip' to edit around. The beginning and end of the clip will be less steady/smooth than in the middle where you've recovered from seeing something cool and rushed to get the shot.

Watch other's videos and take notice of what you like/dislike about them. Try to recreate the stuff you like.

Don't be a jerk - if you're diving with a group it's easy to turn into *that diver* and hog the good stuff, annoy sealife (and other divers). That also includes light discipline - those lights are bright, and it's easy to blind other divers. And, it's OK to use less than full power.
Thanks! Good tips! The camera is pretty cheap, so no many settings. It does have Electronic Image Stabilization and it offers very few settings apart from zoom and video resolution. I’ll probably set it to 1080p at 60fps and use the wide zoom setting. Any tips on the light usage...? I promise I will not blind other divers ;)
 
By no means am I a professional. I'm an amateur that enjoys trying to video what I can and learning from the process. I wind up with more crap video than what I was hoping for. I've left my macro lens on without realizing it, or not even had the camera recording when I thought I did, forgetting I had previously ended a recording. But here's a few things that should help push you forward and reduce some frustration.

Lighting

Figure light range at 6-8 feet. These little action cameras have small sensors and need lots of light. That light may seem bright and light up the whole reef, but figure this: that light not only has to punch through the water to get to the subject, but it has to reflect from the subject and punch back through that same amount of water to make its way back to the camera. This is why you'll see a nice colorful reef in the foreground and a washed out blue hued reef in the background.

You have a video light, which is good. Regular dive lights/torches have a pronounced hot spot that will quickly blow out the subject you are trying to capture. Video lights differ in that they provide a nice flat projection of light without hot spots.

When trying to video subjects, don't be afraid to film without lights before kicking them on. Many creatures, fish, and dive buddies don't appreciate having thousands of lumens of light in their face and may recoil and duck out of sight when illuminated so brilliantly. Others don't seem to care. I was able to get within a foot of a banded sea snake with a pair of video lights and follow him along and he didn't change course or behavior as a result.

At night try and be respectful of sleeping creatures. If he had fingers, I'm sure he would have extended his middle finger at me when I woke a sea turtle from his little hidy hole on the reef causing him to swim off. Predatory animals will also take advantage of your lights to aid in their hunting. I've had eels grab fish that were likely blinded by the lights and had sea lions take advantage of lights at night to chase fish through the kelp forests. Yes it's cool and amazing to see, and many predators in popular dive locations have learned to use diver's lights to help them hunt, but in an ideal world we don't want to introduce change into wild animals' behaviors.

Camera Settings

60 fps is good. When viewing my fish on the reef shots, I like to slow the video down to 30 fps. Reason is, the fish is moving, you are moving, the particles in the water are moving. Playing at full speed tends to be a little unsettling. Shooting at 60 lets you slow it down to 24 or 30 fps for a nice smooth slow motion.

However, if you find that your images are underexposed, try dropping the frame rate to 30 fps. This will effectively slow the shutter speed, allowing the sensor to get more light exposure and give you a brighter image.

You may want to bring the exposure value down to -.5 or so. Essentially this will help to "brighten" the image.

Play with it. Don't expect perfect results right out the gate. If you have an underwater notepad, or slate, write down the settings on it and video it when you start your dive. Then change settings and update the slate. This will make it easy to recall what effect the settings have on your image.

Video about twice as long of a subject as you think you want. If you have a cooperative subject, try to get a minute's worth of video so you can edit/cut as needed, particularly if making shorts, as I have learned. I often come back looking at video wishing I had more of a subject because something else came trough that I didn't notice or I'd like to hold an angle for a bit longer.

Experiment with the color profiles. Same thing with the white balance. You may want to shoot in a flat mode so the camera doesn't try to unnaturally enhance the colors. Or start tring to adjust it's white balance causing a shift in the colors in the middle of filimg. Using an editing program like Davinci Resolve you can adjust the color, tint, hue, and other values for your videos. A handy tool like the AOI white balance card can help with setting the colors in post. But if you don't want to get to that level of editing, there are some apps like GoPro Quik or AquaColorFix that can get you quick results.


Practice the aim of your finger guns

Your brain has the incredible ability to point your finger at something accurately without having to look directly at your finger. I used to do some "trick shooting" by shooting from the hip at the amazement of friends at the range and this was the secret sauce to hitting the targets. With the gun gripped in my hand I'd point my finger at the target along the frame of the gun, which would line the gun up with my finger, which would in turn be in line with the target. From there it's simply moving to and pressing the trigger. It worked surprisingly well. I don't like to spend the dive looking into the small viewfinder that is difficult--at best with middle aged eyes--to focus on when trying to quickly capture something. So, while holding the frame for the camera, extend your index finger on your dominant hand like a finger gun. Point and shoot.

Try this, at chest height, point your finger at something within a half-dozen feet or so. Mostly likely you'll be on it. So use this ability to initially aim in your shot when holding the camera via the frame. Most likely your subject will be pretty close to where you want him in frame, and then you can fine tune with the viewfinder. Great for capturing those creatures that may not present themselves for long and are gone by the time you can get your eye to the view finder (screen).

Keep your head up and eyes open

Keep your head on a swivel and look around you. Don't dive with your face buried in the camera. It's easy to get sucked into what's in front of you. But if you want to capture the unexpected, you need to scan your surroundings every so often. Is there something out there in the big blue behind you as you are focused in on the reef? Last week while diving Beqa Lagoon in Fiji I witnessed a most amazing experience with a humpback whale swimming by. I wouldn't have seen it unless I took the time to look around as he approached from behind me.

From a safety standpoint it's also important to maintain your situational awareness. I've seen divers inadvertently follow critters under an overhang without realizing they had something above them until they hit their head when they raised it up.
 
Words of wisdom: No matter what you think, you aren't close enough, and you didn't stay on the subject long enough .. and, two hands on the tray, and slow down.
 
Keep the camera still and let the fish or whatever do the moving. Slow down most clips by 25% when processing.
 
My setup.. DIY tray and two Big Blue VL4200P video lights. My Go Pro Hero 4 in the dry port of the Olympus TG6

TG6 HERO4 SETUP.jpg
 
Hi All! I am new in this group and total beginner in underwater video. Can I ask your help ?
Marco

One thing is don't over illuminate. I like to do underwater video. The hardest video is the super macro as any movement on the camera tray is amplified in the video. You need to learn to be perfectly still. Larger marine life is easier to follow and not be too worried about stability. On the third video I set my tray down on the sand so no movement. Fourth video a night dive in Tulamben of a Lion Fish hunting.

Learn to keep yourself as still as possible for close up shots. It takes a lot of practise and good mastering of your buoyancy. The Lion Fish dive I was only using the lowest power setting on my lights of 400 lumins. So you will need to learn to adjust lighting.





 

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