Shortage of hot dipped galvanized tanks in the US?

[mr_v]

Here is what they look like on the floor. This is from a Stuart Scuba Facebook post. Force-E and DGX are carrying them as well.


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These remind me of the flat black cars either painted or wrapped. Looks good until they get scratched or become dirty. These tanks will sell at a major loss after a few years of use.

 

[BioTim]

I have a pair of HDG Worthington HP100's I got used. First two hydro stamps did not chip / flake the galvanized layer. The most recent stamp (JAN of 2024) did chip / flake a little bit. Rust-Oleum grey was a good enough cover up. I did not know about the cold galvanizing spray, I will try that for next time. Thanks for the idea TravisD !

My gray epoxy painted fabers seems to be holding up fine too, scuffing here and there sliding in and out of the truck, but nothing too concerning at all.

-Tim

 

[Eric Sedletzky]

Yes, if tanks are going to be painted, white is good.

Or bright silver, and gloss.
Anything that will reflect light not absorb it.

 

[mr_v]

If you fancy some new Faber LP85 galvanized, let me know. I may be able to help out, especially those of you who are in Cave Country.

 

[Bearded Diver]

I see too many people think of new painted tanks as being as precious as a new car paint job and they can't stand the thought of them with one mark, ding, or chip. Some people are show car fanatical.
To me tanks are more of a work truck or equipment trailer, they are meant to be worked and used.
After a few years if there are chips and scratches just brush touch them. The bigger worry is internal rust by somebody's wet fill or crappy compressor.
Externally, the bigger worry is rust forming under a boot. Always remove the boot periodically and make sure no rust bubbles are forming. If there are rust blisters pop them and flake out the bad area until you reach solid paint. All a blister will do is hold salt water and accelerate the corrosion process. The worst thing you can do is be scared to pop it and just leave it alone to form a deeper pit just because you don't want a blemish on your painted tank.
I'd rather dive a beat up tank with character than a pristine brand new tank anyway.
I used to be in the auto body industry, I know how people think.

I 100% agree
This is coming from someone who was gifted a new Faber 133 tank for Christmas a few years ago (grey paint),all my tanks prior 149/133s/ 80s AL (.white paint) etc, we’re all used

 

[Bearded Diver]

These remind me of the flat black cars either painted or wrapped. Looks good until they get scratched or become dirty. These tanks will sell at a major loss after a few years of use.

Those look rad, brand new. I do agree they will sell for less in a few years, which is great, sicne I look to acquire one.

 

[Still Kicking]

Those look rad, brand new. I do agree they will sell for less in a few years, which is great, sicne I look to acquire one.

Don"t get your hopes up. The criteria that matter most when it comes to valuation of used tanks are: passing hydro; passing visual inspection; internal condition.

Barring signs of rust/pitting etc., external cosmetics are way down on the list.

 

[Eric Sedletzky]

Don"t get your hopes up. The criteria that matter most when it comes to valuation of used tanks are: passing hydro; passing visual inspection; internal condition.

Barring signs of rust/pitting etc., external cosmetics are way down on the list.

Exactly.
What matters most is how much hydro is left,
being in vis is a bonus, visible live rust on the outside - under the boot, internal rust if it happens to be empty, how good of shape the valve is in - fresh burst disc is a bonus.
The very last thing we worry about is a few chips and scratches on the outside.

 

[Bearded Diver]

Don"t get your hopes up. The criteria that matter most when it comes to valuation of used tanks are: passing hydro; passing visual inspection; internal condition.

Barring signs of rust/pitting etc., external cosmetics are way down on the list.

This is a very fair point.

 

[floppa]

Speaking of painted tanks, anyone know why the older painted White Fabers seem to be better preserved compared to the more recent gunmetal steel fabers? Both look relatively ugly compared to hot dip galvanized tanks, but there seem to be fewer scratches in 5+ year old painted Fabers that I see at dive sites compared to the newer ones.