I need Help with filter! Bauer utilus

[Gone for diving]

This is what my

Bauer utilus 10​

Looks like,,, don't know if there's that much change, in how the compressor looks like,

my filters are totally different than original

 

[Miyaru]

Back in 1977, that filter was enough. It's probably filled with AC or 50% AC / 50% MS.
But it doesn't meet the current standard (EN12021). If you don't want your tanks to rust away on the inside and breathe safe dry air, add a larger filter housing.

 

[Celt]

My compressor Bauer U2B 1976, you can repack the filter.

 

[happy-diver]

You can do anything you put your hands to
I buy felt from ebay and punch this stuff out

Until an adult comes along and tells you it can't be done!

 

[Waterbottle]

Back in 1977, that filter was enough. It's probably filled with AC or 50% AC / 50% MS.
But it doesn't meet the current standard (EN12021). If you don't want your tanks to rust away on the inside and breathe safe dry air, add a larger filter housing.

What materials filters are filled nowdays?

 

[Waterbottle]

My compressor Bauer U2B 1976, you can repack the filter.

What materials you put in the filter? Ac and ms?

 

[Miyaru]

Still the same material:
Moleculair Sieve:

Active Carbon:

The MS takes the last bit of humidity out of the compressed air. The amount of MS needed depends on the flowrate of the compressor.
The AC takes the odours out, and requires absolutely dry air to function. Humidity will deactivate the carbon.

The way to effectively let these filter materials do their job: keep the pressure high. The PMV (pressure maintenance valve) keeps the filter housing at >140bar, even when the connected tank starts with 50bar.
No PMV? Well......filter life declines rapidly and there's a good chance your tank will turn brownish on the inside.

Edit:
those pictures were taken with artificial light from used filter materials. MS should be almost white, AC should be black. Both materials must be kept in airtight containers. Exposure to air degrades the materials.

 

[Miyaru]

To give you an impression what your Bauer Utilus would need, see the picture below.
On the left, you see the filter cartridges that were posted by others above. They can be screwed together, creating one large filter cartridge. On the right, you see your filter.

Of course, the filters on the left require a different filterhousing. Aluminium filterhousings are usually good for a decade, steel housings last much longer.

 

[Waterbottle]

To give you an impression what your Bauer Utilus would need, see the picture below.
On the left, you see the filter cartridges that were posted by others above. They can be screwed together, creating one large filter cartridge. On the right, you see your filter.
View attachment 689326

Of course, the filters on the left require a different filterhousing. Aluminium filterhousings are usually good for a decade, steel housings last much longer.

Thank you for very good explanation. Nowdays filters must be bigger because more ms --> air to ac would be dryer, am i understanding right? What if I put also personal filter with ms and ac, would it be then good or better with this og small filter?

 

[Miyaru]

Thank you for very good explanation. Nowdays filters must be bigger because more ms --> air to ac would be dryer, am i understanding right? What if I put also personal filter with ms and ac, would it be then good or better with this og small filter?

A larger filter doesn't do much without the required back pressure valve / pressure maintenance valve.
Read this page from Stephen Burton.

The pressure of the air entering the filter has to be at least 140bar/2030psi. At that pressure, 99.3% of the humidity has condensed in the separators (which need to be drained every 15 minutes). Physics:

• High pressure air can contain less water than ambient air
• Cool air can contain less water than warm air

Cooling the air is done in between the stages, keeping the pressure high after the last stage is done by the PMV.

When the pressure is >140bar, the MS is able to take out the last 0.7% of humidity.

If there is no PMV after the filter housing, and you start filling an empty tank, the pressure after the last stage (and in the filter) is the same as in the tank: slowly rising from e.g. 50bar or 500psi. The air at those lower pressures contains too much humidity for the MS, the filter material is saturated rapidly. Plus, the air doesn't dwell long enough in the MS so humid air goes into your tank. Result: flash rust.

A pressure maintenance valve is basically a steel ball with a spring that closes the air outlet. Pushing that ball against the spring (opening the air outlet) requires at least 140bar of air pressure. Once that pressure after the last compression stage and in the filter housing has been reached, the valves opens a bit and the air starts to flow into the next section (fill whip + tank).
The PMV makes sure that the filter housing is at 140bar within 2 minutes. From that moment, the MS starts to do the job is has to do.

So adding another larger filter won't do anything without a way to keep the pressure in that filter high during operation.