Not a huge fan of my GoPro

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If I go TG6, I am going to want to upgrade right away. For those posting content, unless you are posting full resolution, it isn't telling me anything technical about the camera. Every full resolution TG6 picture lacks detail - pictures look like they either didn't focus sharply, or someone ran aggressive noise removal. I do think this would have been a better option than the GoPro for people to have recommended for my first trip.

The biggest advantage of the g7x is the amount of quality underwater images. I know I'd be happy with this camera for many years.

That PEN E-PL10 is exactly what I want on paper and not much more money. It seems like the base model is better than the g7x and lens options give me a lot more room to upgrade in the future. But I can't find a single underwater image. I think I'd be happy with this above water too.

RX100 seems like a little more money than a g7x for the same quality but more lens options.

Not sure how much it matters, but the RX100 and g7x seem like a big step up from the gopro for video, while the E-PL10 video might be a step back.

Everyone tells me brightness of my strobe is what limits my sensor size. What does anyone think about a single Z330? That is $650 and one of the brighter strobes and I'd think it was enough for anything. Backscatter also has a Kraken KR-S02 used for $400. The Inon S2000 seems like the best budget choice at $365. A $285 difference from the cheapest budget strobe to the brightest doesn't seem to fit with everyone telling me not to go DSLR unless I am willing to invest heavily.

Any other strobes to consider?

Does everyone with 2 strobes use the same kind? I'd think a pair mismatched strobes, if anything noticeable, would provide better images. But everyone I remember diving with multiple strobes had 2 of the same. It matters, because if I buy a single S2000, my next upgrade has to be a 2nd S2000, and if I upgrade further, I have to replace both.

You may not find much from the PEN model but the EM-5 II and EM-10 II and III have the same sensor and you'll find lots of images from them around, with the 14-42 and other lenses. Here's a leafy shot with an EM-5II and 12-40 lens:

http://homepages.ihug.com.au/~chrisx2/images/LeafySeadragpn2L.jpg

The 24-70 is the most universal lens option for the 1"compacts. I suspect you'll want at least a wide lens for that camera - you probably won't want to spend the price of the housing plus camera for a WWL which would be the ultimate image quality, so I guess you be looking at something like the INON lens I linked earlier - you can also add a dome to that to get a 150° field of view.

regarding strobes if you went with the G7X I would suggest two S2000 strobes rather than a single Z-330. The bigger sensor on the EPL10 model you would probably shoot 1 stop down so the S-2000s would be borderline there but likely workable. I use Z-240 strobes 9old model from Z330) and they gain about 1/2 stop over the S2000. It depends on whether you think you'll want the extra setup and carrying of having two strobes or not. I wouldn't suggest the Kraken it seems an odd combination and I haven't heard of too many people using them.

lastly if you are doing any video without lights the G7X will be better at white balancing, compared to the SONY cameras.
 
The 24-70 is the most universal lens option for the 1"compacts. I suspect you'll want at least a wide lens for that camera - you probably won't want to spend the price of the housing plus camera for a WWL which would be the ultimate image quality, so I guess you be looking at something like the INON lens I linked earlier - you can also add a dome to that to get a 150° field of view.

You mentioned this dome before. I like the idea of wide reefscapes, but do I really want 150 degree field of view? That just seems so extreme. I am going to Brother's in Egypt, and want to be able to shoot big creatures like longimanus as well as get wide shots of the reef, corals and anthias. Nothing against muck-diving and macro, but that won't be on this trip.


regarding strobes if you went with the G7X I would suggest two S2000 strobes rather than a single Z-330. The bigger sensor on the EPL10 model you would probably shoot 1 stop down so the S-2000s would be borderline there but likely workable. I use Z-240 strobes 9old model from Z330) and they gain about 1/2 stop over the S2000. It depends on whether you think you'll want the extra setup and carrying of having two strobes or not. I wouldn't suggest the Kraken it seems an odd combination and I haven't heard of too many people using them.

lastly if you are doing any video without lights the G7X will be better at white balancing, compared to the SONY cameras.
 
You mentioned this dome before. I like the idea of wide reefscapes, but do I really want 150 degree field of view? That just seems so extreme. I am going to Brother's in Egypt, and want to be able to shoot big creatures like longimanus as well as get wide shots of the reef, corals and anthias. Nothing against muck-diving and macro, but that won't be on this trip.

The wide angle is not to take more in, mostly it is to get closer for a more dramatic shot and less water between you and subject. But you don't need to buy the dome it's just an option. This :

Inon UWL-H100 28 M67 Wide Conversion Lens Type 2

is the lens and it gives you a 100° field when your lens is zoomed to 28mm equivalent, below that it vignettes. You can add this dome unit to the lens :

Inon Dome Lens Unit II for UWL-H100 Wide Lens

and it will give you a 150° field. But you can add that later if you want. I think for a first trip using the lens without the dome would be better it takes a bit of getting used to the huge field to take good shots. The dome goes on on land and needs air inside to work you can't remove it underwater. It's bigger and harder to deal with underwater but it's a cost effective way to get a big field.

The way they work is you carry the lens on a dock on a flash arm or securely in a pocket and add it to take wide shots. To shoot big creatures which are further away, you take it off and park it to shoot with the bare lens. You can screw it on or a get a bayonet system to make installation and removal easier UW or you can use flip holders.
 
If I go TG6, I am going to want to upgrade right away. .

I think you should get some 8K reds for video then. Housing might be a bit bulky but you wont be complaining about full resolution quality from something like a TG6

REDS MOUNTAIN RANGES.jpg
 
I love Go Pros. Especially on the bottom of the ocean attached to headstraps.

Ditto with the headstrap factor ... actually, my mask has a built-in feature to mount the housing. Might not be the best pictures but I can just enjoy the dive.
 
The EM-5 II is enough

Thanks, I saw that. Really great pictures, but again, lacking in resolution. I want to be clear that while high resolution is desirable in a camera, I am looking for high resolution images more to evaluate the camera itself. Shrunk down to a 900x675, their grouper is still a dramatic step up from a GoPro or even a TG6. But is it worse than a g7x or better than a top of the line full frame DSLR? At that resolution, they all look too nice to compare.

Chris had the right idea that looking at EM-5 II images is the best way to evaluate the EPL10.

At this point, I am not being so critical of the Sony RX100 vs G7x vs EPL10 because I must have the best possible image quality. I think I'll be happy with any of the 3, the price difference is small, and with my trip still over 2 months out, I am not in a hurry.
 
I didn't really think about that. I plan to respect the recreational limit, don't think I can hit 45 meters without deco, the lowest I've been is 37. But the G7X hits 60 meters, so maybe this is a factor to consider if everything else is close. Are you a tech diver, or wreck diver or just someone keeping your options open?
 
I hope this isn't too much of a hijack. I've always wondered why you use vacuum in a camera housing instead of pressurizing it. Seems a bit counter-intuitive to create a suction in order to keep something out. Inquiring minds and all that.
if you were trying to keep something out, then maybe. But what you are really trying to do is squeeze the o-ring, and then test if you squeezed it by seeing if there is a leak by seeing if air gets in...doesn't matter if it is water or air, if it leaks then it's not good.
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/swift/

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