Mt. Kinabalu & Sipadan family trip Report - Oct. 2010

[Wisnu]

We – myself, wife and our daughters 11 and 15 years old just came back from climbing Kinabalu and diving Sipadan. This report will consist of three parts – 1. Mt. Kinabalu – I know this is scubaboard; so I’ll keep short – 2. Billabong Scuba where we spent 2 good nights and 3. The diving.

Part 1 – Mt. Kinabalu.

Except myself, none of my family had real experienced in mountain climbing – their only experience was climbing mt. Bromo in East Java – although spectacular view but not really a mountain climbing. Sure, it will be very challenging for them to climb the highest mountain in south east asia (assuming papua is not SE asia)
We traveled by car from Brunei to Kinabalu Park – 9 hours journey with 6 immigration stamps on our passport. Stay 1 night at Sutera Sanctuary resort – cozy and nice resort inside the Kinabalu Park but for RM 915 per night is overpriced.
Actually there’s plenty accommodation outside the park, but we had no choice;. To climb mt. Kinabalu, we have to secure accommodation in Laban Rata which is also managed by Sutera group; not cheap for RM360/pax in bunk bed with shared bathroom.
I was not able to on-line book the accommodation – fully booked. But my friend told me to contact Sutera Sanctuary resort to get quote for complete package. He’s right – we got it, total almost RM3000 for four of us.

Start at Kinabalu park at 09:00 am, then transferred by car to Timpohon gate - the starting point to climb Kinabalu – Km. 0.

The first 4 km journey of 6 km track to Laban rata is relatively easy, but the next 2 km is steep rock path.

We reached Laban rata (3,272.7m above sea level) at around 15:00 - there’s problem on the electrical supply just enough for lighting only - no heater; no hot water; but very good food, plentiful and delicious.

Sunset at Laban Rata.

Now, all climbers must stay overnight at Laban Rata. We wake up very early morning and continue climbing at chilling 03:00 am. The ascent from Laban Rata to the summit is not easy at all, not only still dark but have to climbs along steep ledges.
All the effort are paid when the sunrise welcome you at the peak.

Unfortunately, can't stay forever - time to descent. The big boss was struggling to climbdown the steep edge.

Still, another 1 hour journey back to Laban Rata and then another 6 km to Timpohon gate. My kids reached the gate 40 minute earlier than us

 

[Wisnu]

Part 2 –Billabong Scuba, Mabul.

The next morning; we flew to Tawau with Air Asia first flight;arrive on time. The only my “complain” is; no passenger boarding bridge available for budget airline. Normally not a big issue – but after climbing Kinabalu every step-up and down of the stairway is very painful to my old bone, not the kids, they recover fast.

We chose Billabong scuba, a budget accommodation for 2 reason, The first reason, Billabong confirmed we can get 3 dives at Sipadan with one guide for four of us. The other resort requires us to take 5D/4N package to ensure diving in Sipadan or not enough permit for four of us during our stay there.
And they are cheap – with 4 divers in the family I’ll try not to rob the bank. For full board diving package 3d/2N – 7 dives incl. 3 dives at Sipadan only cost us RM900 ( approx. USD 290) per pax; just for (unfair) comparison; 3D/2N package at Sipadan Water Village cost more than USD 1000 per pax; and still no guarantee to dive sipadan – anyway we should not compare apple with yam.
I know, traveladvisor mostly give very bad review to Billabong and many people want you to avoid like hell.
We bring our own gear – so the issue of poor equipment is not applicable for us. I also believe by talking nicely and clearly of our expectation with the dive guide we can get a very good understanding and ensure good diving experience within our limitation – so far work well. One more thing – we always bring room refresher when staying at budget accommodation.

So, what my impression of Billabong?
Honestly exceeding my expectation; Faizal the owner of Billabong picked-up us with his nice Toyota Esteema. They give us 2 new recently built rooms with aircon – very small but clean room, not stinky, with two mattress and portable fan; no other furniture. The air con working well at nigh – note that no electricity during the day – attached bathroom with western toilet, no shower, instead small bucket for “mandi” style bathing. Don’t expect proper plumbing system, all grey and black water goes to the sea together with waste from hundreds villager houses, – not sure how the bigger resorts such SWV manage their waste water. Still, the water surrounding the home stay and village are crystal clear but I’m not very interested for snorkeling in the area.

Billabong homestay is far from elegant. Despite bad review, their room was full when we're there. They are adding new rooms. Construction materials are everywhere; crowded and untidy.

Sunset is always beautiful

The homestay is located in the bajo traditional fishing village; surrounded by poverty. Life is difficult even for a cat.

A week before we came, Billabong family has new member, ready to face the hard life; within few weeks they will be expecting the mercy of guess to share their meal.

However, go to school is always fun.

The nicest thing, Billabong’s boat is very spacious and powerful.

The food is certainly not gourmet but very tasty – daily lunch and dinner typically steam rice or fried rice, beef or chicken, fish, veggie and fruit (water melon – always).

 

[Wisnu]

Part 3 - The diving

Regardless where you stay, Sipadan, particularly Baracuda point is amazing – turtles, sharks, barracuda tornado, school of jackfish, batfish, all in one go – shallow – we do not go deeper than 15 m.
I'm quite happy with our dive guide Thony, very helpfull and always try his best to pleasant us. Typical dive time is 45 minute or 50 barg which ever come first - but mostly we get "extra time" 10 - 15 minutes.

All the picture below are taken with SP-350 or G9 – natural light, no strobe no filter.

 

[xariatay]

Always enjoy your trip reports, always so much fun & so cheerful! Thanks!
Like the turtle & jacks shots!
Did u do any night dives at Mabul, they are good!

 

[Wisnu]

Always enjoy your trip reports, always so much fun & so cheerful! Thanks!
Like the turtle & jacks shots!
Did u do any night dives at Mabul, they are good!

Cat .. thanks for kind words.
Indeed, we did mandarin fish + early night diving at Mabul - between paradise 1 and 2. Unfortunately not very lucky to get nice picture of manadarin fish mating. Too crowded at site; and there's somebody diving with a bright sun; I think videographer.
Yup, we enjoy night diving there, easy and lazy diving in warm water, crab, lobsters and other small critters; but viz not excelent; lot of particle in the water.

Cheers

 

[gee13]

Nice report Wisnu! Did you spend all your money at KBR now going budget? Night dive on Mabul with mandarin fish was one of the many highlights (well we got in before the hordes of Japanese divers invaded the spot!) along with world class sites Barracuda Point and Hanging Gardens. I also enjoyed the dive under seaventures. Crocodile Fish, Blue Spot Stingray, Pygmy seahorse on a fan coral...

 

[Wisnu]

Hi gee
Having 4 divers in family is not cheap; too bad this year no bonus:depressed: not brave enough to rob the bank.
I'll make u jealous, we got special price in KBR Lembeh - not much difference than 2fish

yes, crocodile fish is another highlight of our trip - saw 4 in 2 dives.

 

[Lj82]

Very nice report!
I have been contemplating a similar trip to Sabah, to climb Mt KK first, followed by Sipadan.
Where did you keep your dive gear when you climb Mt KK?

 

[Wisnu]

LJ,
We drove from Brunei and kept our gear and or unused stuff in our car - we parked in front of Kinabalu park office and at the Kinabalu airport (when diving sipadan).

Assuming your flight to KK; you can keep your gear at left luggage facility in the airport.

 

[ChaiLatte]

I really loved your report and pictures. Hoping to get a trip to Sipadan area soon. In a non-creapy/stalker way, your daughters are beautiful and it's so cool to have a family of divers !