Has anyone ever converted a non-slave, wired strobe like the Oceanic 2000 (for Nikonos) to slave use for a P&S, because I am fix'n too. Maybe. 
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Converting wired strobe to slave?
- Thread starter Nemrod
- Start date
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ScubaBasics
Contributor
Just need a little slave circuit and a way to mount the photocell. Tie it in to the trigger wire and there you go!
DSR-3
Contributor
'not familiar with that strobe, but I just received on of these todayHW
for about $125 to use with a Sea & Sea YS-90TTL ($75). These along with my DIY tray/arm with a nano focus light, I'm hoping it will be an effective low-budget setup. I've just shot a few tests in my office, and the TTL function seems to work as advertised (no overexposure comp. to manual). It also fires in manual mode. 10 days to the real test...
for about $125 to use with a Sea & Sea YS-90TTL ($75). These along with my DIY tray/arm with a nano focus light, I'm hoping it will be an effective low-budget setup. I've just shot a few tests in my office, and the TTL function seems to work as advertised (no overexposure comp. to manual). It also fires in manual mode. 10 days to the real test...
OP
I have a little suction cup circuit encapsulated in plastic. I thought to remove the wires, install a new bolt into the old cable hole with a drilled fitting and then epoxy the trigger circuit to the drilled bolt.
A small project. it will be only one power, full, I think the GN is like 16 or so. With a DIY diffuser I hope to soften it up enough that the Inon D2000 can compensate as the master and still control the exposure.
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OP
I think he's talking about the Heinrichs weikamp digital adaptor (LINK). I use one with my S&S ys 60 and a fantasea housing form my coolpix P5000. It converts the camera's internal flash's light into an electrical signal these older hard wired strobes can follow. Can use the strobe in manual (it acts like a slave and puts out what I tell it to) or in TTL (where it mimiks the onboard flash). Works like a charm.
*edit: DSR-3's link goes direclty ti the H-W website. Looks like it's all in german now. But just clickon the Digital adapter link on the right and do a google translation of it, it won't be perfect, but should give you an idea about it. Alternatively, send an email to the guys at reef. They should know since they sell them (see my link above).
*edit: DSR-3's link goes direclty ti the H-W website. Looks like it's all in german now. But just clickon the Digital adapter link on the right and do a google translation of it, it won't be perfect, but should give you an idea about it. Alternatively, send an email to the guys at reef. They should know since they sell them (see my link above).
OP
Thanks, that is sort of what I am doing but using old parts and trying to build it in so as to rid it of that gynormous cable. My old Oceanic 2000 strobe is and always was just a single power output, full power. I had to set the f stop to control exposure with the Nikonos III. I long ago lost the diffuser but I can make another.
I think I will use a small mirror on the strobe sensor (the DIY one) to reflect the light from front and side. I have no money in it that was not spent 30 years ago, if it work I have an extra strobe, if it don't, oh well.
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Nemrod,
I know the little slave sensor your talking about and they work pretty well except they tend to be a bit directional so you'll need to be careful where you place it on the oceanic strobe. It's been a while since I laid eyes on one but if I remember correctly the sync cable breakout from the flash is toward the back end of the unit. So just be careful where you place the slave sensor and you should be OK. Good Luck!
Peter
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