I had 2 out of 4 diving days at Sipadan for a total of 7 dives there. Yup, no current and poor viz (for Sipadan). I've dived Barracuda Point seven times and lucky number 7 ensured I saw the Barracuda washing machine up close and at its most impressive. Cabbie, I could have been part of your Piccadilly Circus traffic jam! My entry time for that dive was 1pm. It was Friday, 6th.
I thought there was less to see this trip but I had been warned that diving Sipadan this time of the year wouldn't be as good as it could be. The best conditions I've experienced was in August last year. June this year was pretty good as well. Did see a school of bumpheads at Staghorn Crest the day before, also at 1pm. Regardless of which, diving at Sipadan is always amazing.
I have to say that diving the other sites like Mabul, Kapalai, Siamil and Mantabuan are pretty good too. Of course anyone going over would want to dive Sipadan but should it be badly limited, the alternatives aren't bad at all. As far as permits go, trip 1 (August '08) 2 days - 5 dives, trip 2 (June '09) 2 days - 6 dives, trip 3 (November '09) 2 days - 7 dives. I should note however, that in June I could have gone to Sipadan for another day's diving but chose to go to Mantabuan instead.
I've now stayed at SMART, SWV and Borneo Divers. The food at SMART is the best. The cook's a genius at times. The fanciest resort is SMART's Water Bungalows but of course, it is the most expensive. SWV has more variety. Borneo Diver's food is not worth remembering! I stayed in a standard (read: crappiest) chalet. Borneo Diver's chalets are nicer and newer and definately have thicker walls! I didn't think the standard chalet is worth it. If you can afford it, the detached chalets at SMART would be a better idea. SMART has the nicest grounds, remembering that SWV is built entirely over the water. I thoroughly enjoyed my stay at each resort though.
The DMs at SMART are the most courteous, Borneo Divers have the friendliest and SWV DMs seem aloof and uninterested (except for Froi, if he's still there). Had the same DM the entire trip at Borneo Divers and SMART, a different one every day at SWV.
Diving the house reef isn't easy. It's where the water bungalows are, on the other side of the island from the chalets. Although they will take your gear over for you, you have to walk there and back yourself. I did though, grateful for the exercise after overindulging in the superb fare day and night! The house reef is artificial. It's made out of many types of materials and a number of structures, big and small, dot the area. It's on the exposed side of the island so visibility can be poor and it is susceptible to current so know when the tides are coming in and out! The sun also sets on the other side of the island so around 4pm you start losing light. Good things to see though. Giant moray, frog fish, porcupine fish, various angels and butterflies, lots of batfish and lionfish and a small school of jacks. There's macro life as well, I got a few good shots here and there. Watch out though, it's confusing around the structures with poor vis and current so make sure you can find your way back to the jetty if you don't have a DM. I did two buddy dives with the missus there. Bring a compass and common sense and you'll be ok.
Oh yeah. Watch out for banded sea kraits on Mabul. They do come out of the water occasionally. They definately do at the Water Bungalows' helipad at night. I also saw two in the water from the walkway in the evening. Last year, saw one at SWV sleeping on a beam. Photographed one during a dive at Siamil in June.
Everything I've written are just personal opinions from personal experience.
Any other info wanted, I'd be happy to answer.
I didn't quite like their system of always changing DM as we never got to know any of them properly before being given a new one.
