I could have titled this post: "I have too much time on my hands and I want to think about diving." Translation: I'm a

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FLTEKDIVER:
The tanks you'll mostley be using have a major factor, because steel 100's start neg 8 lbs, and end up neg 1 pound, while alum 80's start around 2 lbs neg, but end up around 6 -7 pounds positive when they are below 1000 psi.
I'll preface this comment by saying that FLTEKDIVER is probably a far more experienced diver than I, and he probably knows far more than I do about scuba gear. Yet, I have the same question as PerroneFord. As far as I know, the two most common AL80 tanks are the Luxfer 80 and Catalina S80. The Luxfer 80 is +4.4 lbs. when empty and the Catalina S80 is +4 lbs. when empty. I have never heard of AL80 tanks that "end up around 6-7 pounds positive when they are below 1000 psi," but what's 3 or 4 pounds between friends, eh?
Emily, I hope that we're not confusing you. Figuring out how much more/less weight you need based on a tank change is really just simple math. I remember when my high school math teacher said that I should pay attention because this stuff might save my life one day! Check out the
Tech Diving Limited webpage for the buoyancy characteristics of specific tanks. For this first part, I'll focus on the "Buoyancy Empty" numbers. Let me work through an example for ya:
Let's say that, with a BP/W setup, you wear 14 lbs. of ditchable lead when diving in your brand-new Henderson 7mm Thermoprene wetsuit with a Catalina S80 (and you've done a proper weight check to determine that this is the right amount of weight for holding a 15ft safety stop at 500 psi), but a magnanimous dive buddy is letting you borrow his Worthington X7-100 HP100 steel tank for a dive.
The Catalina S80 is +4 lbs. buoyant when empty, whereas the X7-100 is -2.5 lbs. buoyant when empty. Thus, when empty, the X7-100 is 6.5 lbs. heavier than the Catalina S80. This means that you can subtract approx. 6.5 lbs. from your 14 lbs. of ditchable lead. Therefore, you need to wear only 14 - 6.5 = 7.5 lbs. of ditchable lead with your dive buddy's X7-100 tank.
[N.B.: For the nitpicking math/physics jocks in the audience, these calculations are still approximate for the two tanks in question because they assume that the buoyancy differential when empty is equal to the buoyancy differential when at 500 psi.]
You may then wonder: With an empty wing (or a BC failure), will ditching that 7.5 lbs. of lead be enough to make me positively buoyant at the beginning of the dive? Once again, consulting the Tech Diving Limited tank chart, we see that the X7-100 is -10 lbs. buoyant when full and -2.5 lbs. buoyant when empty. Thus, the weight of a full tank of air is 7.5 lbs. at the beginning of the dive. Soooooo, if you ditch your 7.5 lbs. of lead at the beginning of the dive with a full X7-100 tank and an empty wing, you will be...about neutral. But wait, you did your weight check at the 15ft safety stop depth! Your wetsuit loses buoyancy with increased depth. The newer the wetsuit, the more it gets compressed at depth. So, in reality, you'll probably be
slightly negative if you ditch your lead at the beginning of the dive at depth while using your buddy's X7-100 tank.
Is it too negative to swim up? You'll have to be the judge of that.

For homework...
OK, now let's say that your buddy wants to lend you a Faber HP-100 tank. How much lead would you have to wear? Will ditching the calculated amount of lead make you negatively/positively/neutrally buoyant at the beginning of the dive with an empty wing (or BCD failure)? The answer to this last question might explain why some people make the blanket statement that it's "dangerous" to dive a steel tank with a wetsuit. These safety-conscious folks are probably referring to the fact that if you get into trouble at the beginning of the dive (BC failure) and need to ditch your weights, you may still be negatively buoyant...depending on your depth and gear configuration (ditchable weight, steel tank, compressed neoprene wetsuit). Shell drysuits don't become "compressed" at depth like neoprene wetsuits. Also, drysuits can be pumped full of air and used as another buoyancy control device, thus, making it safer to dive with a steel tank.
OK, grab some coffee

, and let's work through one more math problem...
In my original example we said that you did your weight check using your BP/W rig. Let's say that you
actually did your weight check using a traditional jacket-style BCD which has an inherent buoyancy of +2 lbs. (as Tobin alluded to in his post). For argument's sake, let's say you went out and replaced your jacket-style BCD with a stainless steel BP and harness that was -5 lbs. buoyant. That's a 7 lb. buoyancy differential, meaning that you would only need 14 - 7 = 7 lbs. of ditchable weight at the beginning of the dive...with an AL80 tank. Using a Catalina S80 tank, the weight of a full tank of air is 5.8 lbs. Therefore, you would only be slightly positive if you ditched your weights with this rig at the beginning of the dive with a full tank. If you decided to dive a HP100 steel tank with this SS BP, you would be about 7.5 lbs. negatively buoyant at the surface at the beginning of your dive with an empty wing...with no ditchable weight. At least you wouldn't have a difficult time sinking!

To address this issue, often times divers will match an AL BP with a steel tank and a SS BP with an AL tank.
Full disclosure: I am not a DIR diver. However, I have read that DIR divers (and others) recommend not using a steel tank while diving a wetsuit, especially with a SS BP. Having done the calculations, I can see the value in making the blanket statement: "It's dangerous to dive a steel tank with a wetsuit."

Do I dive a steel tank with a wetsuit and my SS BP? Yes.
Will I be positively buoyant if I have a BCD failure and need to ditch my lead at the beginning of a dive? No.
Am I diving an unsafe gear configuration with a wetsuit + steel tank + SS BP? In my opinion, no...so long as I feel comfortable swimming up the gear from depth given a BCD failure.
I'll let Tobin (a.k.a. cool_hardware52) or someone else do the calculations to determine which size wing you'll need to buy based on your gear configuration. You basically want a wing that has enough buoyant lift to float your gear (excluding exposure suit) when it's at its heaviest (with a full tank of air).
OK, my typing fingers are going numb. I'll stop. If you read all the way to the end of this post, you deserve to be entertained by an animation of me dancing.
