OK - let's talk about the question that the OP actually asked - **usually** the only difference in valve ratings is the PRD/burst disk. ("300 BAR" vs "200 BAR" length of threaded throat acknowledged - but also note that 200 BAR valves are perfectly serviceable on 3,442# bottles. You don't change over to the 300 BAR valves until you get to 3,500# or higher bottles.)
Normally, the PRD/burst disks are rated to 5/3 of the bottle's service pressure. A 3,000 rated valve will have a 5,000 PRD/burst disk. The PRD/burst disks on 3,442 bottles will typically be 5,250# rated - that is lower than the 5/3 rule of thumb, but that's what the valve and tank engineers came up with.
Note that the delta in tank capacity is 442#; the delta in PRD rating is 250#.
Being conservative (using a slightly lower rated disk) on the PRD hurts nothing other than it may be ever so slightly more prone to popping, depending on how far past the SP the tank is filled and maybe the number of fill cycles. Me, personally, I would not be so much concerned ab0ut the 250# under rating as I would be the age of the PRDs themselves. They need to be replaced every 5 years, usually at the same time that the bottle is hydroed. Most local shops (IME) that pimp out hydro services will roll their eyes if you ask and do not do this unless specifically requested. They will also do the same when I've asked about regular valve rebuilds which the valve manufacturers recommend at that interval too... In any case, as I don't ever know when/if it has been changed when I buy used bottles; those get changed out with no further consideration (usually I'll be rebuilding the valve or replacing the valve (most of my used buys have K valves and they get converted to Pro valves.)
The PRDs are cheap (<$10) and easy to change - you do have to properly torque them so you'll need a wrench with the right rating if you don't already gots one.
PRD Safety Assembly (Burst Disk Kit)
One thing to be aware of - if the valves have the older multi-part washer/disk parts rather than a single assembly (which is what you commonly see today), the copper burst disk can be a little problematic to get out: I have had those rip through and I've ruined a couple valves by scratching the valve surface where the PRD assembly seats. I have re-thunked my position on removing those with a pick and will going forward use a low pressure (100#?) air supply and blowing them out using the dip tube once I've removed the rest of the parts. This will however necessitate removing the valve from the bottle.