Trip Report September Bonaire Trip - Captain Don's Habitat

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Fishhy

Contributor
Messages
150
Reaction score
187
Location
Jacksonville, FL
# of dives
200 - 499
Just got back from Bonaire for the first time. We stayed at Captain Don’s Habitat.
Here’s my trip report:
We booked via Maduro Dive Travel for 4 people with a truck and 6 days unlimited nitrox for shore dives, breakfast buffet, and 6 single tank boat dives. Cost: ~$1100 each plus entry tax and marine fee.
While we did have to present the entry tax at the airport, no one ever asked to see our marine park pass (honor system?). Though, if you wanted a collectable medallion for your park tag, you could present your QR code at the local STINAPA office (the staff here seemed really put-out to help us here unfortunately).

Getting there– We left through Miami and found a deal on AA for 10k points round trip plus about $85. The times were decent (we went Wed - Wed).

The room– Adequate. Tile floors that they cleaned daily and good water pressure and hot water in the shower. The AC was able to get the room cold but all the power turns off when you take your key from near the front door. So many times we’d leave one key in the room to allow us to finish charging batteries and keep the room cold.
WIFI was good, there was an access point in one of our two adjoining rooms.

Food– We ate at RumRunners a couple nights. The food here was decent but the service was painfully slow. I did really enjoy the Tuna and Salmon Poke entree. We also tried the Monday night AYCE BBQ which I’d pass on next time (dry and pricey for what it was). In all, we didn’t find the food on the island to be spectacular or a good value. We ended up getting lunch foods from the grocery store about 200 yards from the front gate.

Staff– The staff was friendly but they didn’t seem to talk to each other much (didn’t seem like anyone was on the same page or willing to take ownership. There were about 8 dive staff members that were willing to give you tips to find creatures during your trip.

Boat Dives– They boat dives were nice in that you could go places that were difficult or impossible to get to by car (1000 steps, “Welcome Home”, and Klein Bonaire). They did boat dives at 8:30, 11, and 2pm each day but you could not sign up until about noon the day before. They did take requests which was nice. But multiple times we were not able to go to the scheduled location because another boat was already at the mooring.

Shore Dives– That’s the biggest reason we chose Bonaire. You will definitely want to rent a truck for this island, but they also have a great reef right behind the resort. They had plenty of YOKE ONLY tanks available and lockers and rinse bins near the water/dock. Just be sure to bring a lock if you want to use one.
Bonaire is a great value for diving; we did 23 dives over the 6 days with about 24 hours total underwater. I had Google Gemini’s “Deep Research” plan an itinerary based on the tides, weather, and moon phase while we were there. We stuck to it pretty closely with a few shuffles and changes. Overall, I think most of our favorite sites were the ones we took by boat (less pressure from other divers?)
I can only imagine how the reefs looked here about 20-30 years ago. There were brain coral skeletons in some places the size of a small car! Sad to see a lot of death on the reefs and not a ton of bio diversity with the corals. Still, some of the sites had large staghorn forests which were great to see! We didn’t see any frogfish, but our guide (Marco), was able to find a seahorse for us on one of the dives. We do a lot of Florida diving and one thing we all noticed is we didn’t see one shark the entire trip. It seems like their version of sharks are 6-7ft tarpon that follow you and graze right by your face (especially at night).

Favorite Dive– For me, our timing was perfect with the full moon and we opted to time our night dive at “the lake” for an Ostacod dive. It was incredible (unfortunately not something you can get on camera), it was like being surrounded by thousands of icicle lights dancing. If you plan to go and can make it so the full moon happens during the front half of your stay I’d HIGHLY recommend this dive!

Other impressions–
The people on the island, and other divers, in general were very friendly. We stayed out of “downtown” since there were cruise ships in multiple days. Driving the island was pretty easy, as long as you know how to drive stick shift. If we were to go back, I’d probably push for us to spend the $100 per person more to get the “ultimate dive truck” instead. Our pickup had enough space, but organizing the tanks and gear did take a little effort. The ultimate dive trucks had better organization and the added fresh water washdown would have been nice.

My cheap housing for my Osmo 5 pro kept leaking/fogging up so I didn’t get nearly as much footage as I would have liked, but here’s a short video from the trip.

I’ll also post some of my photos soon to my instagram:
https://www.instagram.com/fishhy/

Thanks!
-Scott
 
Great trip report. Thanks for sharing!
While we did have to present the entry tax at the airport, no one ever asked to see our marine park pass (honor system?)
The dive shop at Habitat should have asked to see proof of you having paid the Nature Fee (valid for the current calendar year) when you first checked in with them to fill out your diver registration and liability release forms etc.

Other than that, the only other situations where you'd be asked to see your current STINAPA Nature Fee receipt would be to gain entry to Washington Slagbaai National Park or request a souvenir tag from STINAPA HQ.
The AC was able to get the room cold but all the power turns off when you take your key from near the front door. So many times we’d leave one key in the room to allow us to finish charging batteries and keep the room cold.
FWIW this intentional to prevent exactly what you did to get around it. Electricity production on the island is both expensive and generally environmentally unfriendly due to dependence on fossil fuels. (While there are a few wind turbines on the east side of the island, and a solar array at Barcadera near 1000 Steps dive site, most of the electricity on the island is produced by diesel electric generator.)

Electricity on Bonaire currently costs $0.32/kWh to purchase. That's twice the average residential cost in the USA (and more than 4x the $0.07 we pay here in Idaho.)

Thus it's very common for resorts and rental accommodations to limit AC to sleeping areas only, and to discourage use of the AC at all when those rooms are unoccupied. It appears that Habitat is trying to do this politely via automatically detecting when the rooms are occupied, but you've made it obvious that this method is pretty easy to hack.

Many accommodations on the island simply meter electrical usage on a per room or per guest basis, and then charge an appropriate surcharge fee for excessive electrical usage such as you describe above. (I'm not chastising you personally for this. It just how things are on Bonaire.)
We do a lot of Florida diving and one thing we all noticed is we didn’t see one shark the entire trip.
This is pretty typical when diving the calmer western leeward side of the island. Nurse sharks and Caribbean reef sharks are fairly shy, especially when not being fed to encourage aggregation and interaction with humans, which is forbidden on Bonaire. Shark sightings occur a bit more frequently on the east side of the island, which has much more current and very few divers compared to the busier west side.

If it's any consolation, I've enjoyed 400+ hours of Bonaire bottom time over the past 29 years and have only encountered two nurse sharks on the west side of the island. (One near the bottom of Small Wall on the main island, and another on the west side of Klein Bonaire. Both were in the late 1990s or early 2000s.)

Occasionally—very rarely... like sometimes years between sightings—a wandering whale shark is spotted cruising along on the west coast. When that happens it usually causes quite a stir here and on other Bonaire oriented social media outlets!
 
electric generator.)

Electricity on Bonaire currently costs $0.32/kWh to purchase. That's twice the average residential cost in the USA (and more than 4x the $0.07 we pay here in Idaho.)

Thus it's very common for resorts and rental accommodations to limit AC to sleeping areas only, and to discourage use of the AC at all when those rooms are unoccupied. It appears that Habitat is trying to do this politely via automatically detecting when the rooms are occupied, but you've made it obvious that this method is pretty easy to hack.
I can appreciate this reasoning and we did pull the key when we would leave for the day and didn't have anything charging. It just seemed like the easiest work-around to get items charged since there wasn't any "always on" outlets and worth mentioning.

We didn't get a chance to dive the east side this trip, I've read the pelagic stuff is more common on the east side. Maybe next time :)
 
I bet we were there at the same time; we had a large patch of very healthy Staghorn coral in about 15' of water 50' in front of our rental house; and our nightly Ostracod dives saved the trip. By far one of the coolest things to experience; and my previous 5x trips were never timed accordingly. The death of all the coral (especially car sized brain coral) combined with the red algea outbreaks every where made the trip a bit depressing. They even removed most the moorings north of Karpata; I am guessing to give that area time to recover. It was death everywhere; and I likely won't be returning for at least 10 years after this last trip. This was the first trip I did a mangrove kayak (at night). That was well worth it and we did it on our last night (non-diving) and would highly recommend that.
 
I bet we were there at the same time; we had a large patch of very healthy Staghorn coral in about 15' of water 50' in front of our rental house; and our nightly Ostracod dives saved the trip. By far one of the coolest things to experience; and my previous 5x trips were never timed accordingly. The death of all the coral (especially car sized brain coral) combined with the red algea outbreaks every where made the trip a bit depressing. They even removed most the moorings north of Karpata; I am guessing to give that area time to recover. It was death everywhere; and I likely won't be returning for at least 10 years after this last trip. This was the first trip I did a mangrove kayak (at night). That was well worth it and we did it on our last night (non-diving) and would highly recommend that.
The North area you are talking about is likely the marine park where it's off limits.
 
Well, I didn't mean to say all the coral was dead; but all the coral that was dead compared to 5 years ago (last time I was there); was very sad.
Yes, in the interim, Stoney Coral Tissue Loss Disease (SCTLD, "skittle-D") took out a few species, but definitely not all. Unfortunately, some brain corals were affected. This happened in most of he Caribbean; have you not been diving elsewhere recently?
 
There was death everywhere; some reefs like Nukove were almost completely unrecognizable (which was one of my top 3 sites) in the past. As for Caribbean diving; I have not been diving in those waters since my last trip to Bonaire in 2021. But I have done over 150 dives in Bonaire; so I know it very well. All that said, my friends who had never been to Bonaire before barely even noticed; as there is still a lot of life and healthy coral. Nothing beats shore diving on your own schedule; which is why I still love Bonaire but won't be back anytime soon as I can do that in my PNW backyard.
 

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