Mako 5408 flywheel removal

[Hayleighv]

Good morning!
I have a diesel trailer mounted Mako 5408 compressor, during transport the silencer housing fell and broke 2 of the fan blades off. I've ordered a set of replacement blades but I'm not sure how to remove the flywheel. After removing the bolt I was surprised there was no square keyway but instead it appears to be soldered on. I have the puller to remove it but it won't budge. I'm also concerned with what the procedure is to put it back on without a keyway to keep it in place when it turns. I'm mechanically inclined but I'm the furthest thing from a compressor mechanic. I realize this may be a stupid question but I appreciate any insight. I've attached a photo. Thank you!

 

[wdeutsch]

Just removed the flywheel from my new (to me) Hypres, so maybe what I learned there will help you?

Are the two holes on the front face threaded, by any chance? If so, those may well be the way you remove it. Look behind the flywheel and see if there's a plate or bearing suface behind the holes. If so, you can try threading bolts in there and slowly/carefully cranking them against that bearing surface. That's how you remove the flywheel on mine.

As far as a keyway goes, you may well find there's a hidden one when you get the flywheel off. In case there's not, mark the orientation on the shaft beforehand and cross your fingers?

I hope that helps, and I'll be curious to hear what any Mako owners have to say here.

 

[Hayleighv]

Just removed the flywheel from my new (to me) Hypres, so maybe what I learned there will help you?

Are the two holes on the front face threaded, by any chance? If so, those may well be the way you remove it. Look behind the flywheel and see if there's a plate or bearing suface behind the holes. If so, you can try threading bolts in there and slowly/carefully cranking them against that bearing surface. That's how you remove the flywheel on mine.

As far as a keyway goes, you may well find there's a hidden one when you get the flywheel off. In case there's not, mark the orientation on the shaft beforehand and cross your fingers?

I hope that helps, and I'll be curious to hear what any Mako owners have to say here.

I have a puller that fits perfectly, I just can't get it off, I've tightened the puller to the point that I'm afraid I will break the threads on the flywheel. I'm assuming I will have to heat it up to get it off. Getting it back on properly is what scares me.

It's a unit im planning to sell, if all else fails I will sell it like it is and let someone that knows what they are doing fix it so I don't make a simple problem worse lol
Thank you for your advice!

 

[wdeutsch]

I tried the same thing with a puller, and got to the same point before realizing that the center hole that *looks* like a shaft you would normally push against with a puller is NOT that, and is actually part of the flywheel. Hence, the puller is pushing and pulling against the same cast piece.

What worked was NOT using a puller, and just threading bolts into the two holes further from the center. As they threaded thru the flywheel and against the (hidden) surface behind the flywheel, the flywheel came right off.

So, if you haven't tried it, put the puller away ad gently drive bolts into the two radial holes, alternating adding torque. A bit of penetrating oil from the back side may help as well.

 

[Wookie]

Are you using Grade 8 bolts on the puller? Make sure they are long enough to fully engage the threads on the pulley, drive the puller with an impact, and whack it with a sledge hammer on the end of the puller bolt.

It’s a tapered shaft, no key. Make sure you don’t bugger the threads with the puller. A left hand 12mm tap is hard to find in the USA.

 

[Wookie]

And keep ahold of it. When it lets go there is nothing to hold it on, and those fan blades are stupid easy to break. Lawrence Factor NewParts has them if you break one.

Why are you taking off the pulley?

 

[Wookie]

Nevermind, I see that you needed the fan blades warning earlier….

 

[TrimixToo]

Are you using Grade 8 bolts on the puller? Make sure they are long enough to fully engage the threads on the pulley, drive the puller with an impact, and whack it with a sledge hammer on the end of the puller bolt.

It’s a tapered shaft, no key. Make sure you don’t bugger the threads with the puller. A left hand 12mm tap is hard to find in the USA.

https://www.mscdirect.com/product/details/59908640

 

[Hayleighv]

Are you using Grade 8 bolts on the puller? Make sure they are long enough to fully engage the threads on the pulley, drive the puller with an impact, and whack it with a sledge hammer on the end of the puller bolt.

It’s a tapered shaft, no key. Make sure you don’t bugger the threads with the puller. A left hand 12mm tap is hard to find in the USA.

Ahh a tapered shaft. That makes sense and makes me feel better about it. I have grade 8 bolts that go all the way to the bottom of the threads on the pulley. I guess I was just being to gentle. I will put the 18 inch breaker bar away and get out the impact this weekend. I will let you know how it goes. Thank you!

 

[Wookie]

https://www.mscdirect.com/product/details/59908640

That's harder than going to my shed.