Poseidon Cyklon regulators

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Billdiver

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I’m new to Poseidon, just picked up a used set of Cyclon 300s and have a few questions. Hopefully it has not been discussed too often, I really searched and the lack of info makes me more curious. Any way to tell exactly what I have and how it fits in the Poseidon family tree? Also, where should I go from here? I want to dive in Lake Superior with them, so pretty cold.
 

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About all that I know:
Those are cyklon (300) 2nd stages
The 1st stage looks like the 2305
Unbalanced 1st (diaphragm), and 2nds

They run at a higher IP compared to almost everything else

The threads on the hoses are metric (not the standard unf sizes), so careful messing around with those
 
It looks like you have a Cyklon Super on your hands, probably dating from the early 1980s; or even the 300, judging from those polymer second stages, provided that they hadn't been swapped out.

The upside is that, while those models were discontinued in 1993 (to be replaced by the balanced Cyklon 5000), parts kits are still available from Poseidon; so too, standardized adaptors for the original hoses, from their original "British Railroad Thread."

Cyklon and Jetstream first stages were originally fitted with either a metal or rubber environmental cap, filled with vodka or some alcohol / glycerin concoction, etc. to prevent freezing (see photo) -- and those accessories are still available, decades later, and very effective -- and were even used by Cousteau and his team while in Antarctica.

I took my Cyklon 300s to freezing or near freezing conditions, on any number of occasions over the years, without issue . . .
 

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How does one fill the cup and get all the air out? Is it an every dive thing or once and done?
A tiny amount of air entrapment is no real issue.

The cap is filled with vodka as one would fill a shot-glass, to overflowing. The first stage is then inverted and the cap affixed to the ridges on the regulator -- expect a bit of spillage. It's a bit clumsy to do at first; but it helps if both surfaces are pre-dampened. It is then fastened with either a neat clamp in the older regulators or a cheap-o thin cable tie in the newer.

Provided that is done correctly and sufficiently tightened, it can last a whole Winter of diving. I just recently serviced a set from last year, from around this time -- and the caps remained full.

I also use them while diving in suspect water, just to keep things clean -- not just the full-on craziness of ice-diving . . .
 
A tiny amount of air entrapment is no real issue.

The cap is filled with vodka as one would fill a shot-glass, to overflowing. The first stage is then inverted and the cap affixed to the ridges on the regulator -- expect a bit of spillage. It's a bit clumsy to do at first; but it helps if both surfaces are pre-dampened. It is then fastened with either a clamp in the older regulators or a thin cable tie in the newer.

Provided that is done correctly and sufficiently tightened, it can last a whole Winter of diving. I just recently serviced a set from last year, from around this time -- and the caps remained full.

I also use them while diving in suspect water, just to keep things clean -- not just the full-on craziness of ice-diving . . .
So shot glasses and a bottle of Absolute in the save a dive kit, got it…
 
if I have the older style and the cap, but not the clamp — would a zip tie do?
 
So shot glasses and a bottle of Absolute in the save a dive kit, got it…
Yeah, that or the 80 proof aquavit of the Swedes -- tastes like rye bread and will blow the back of your head off . . .

Skål!
 
if I have the older style and the cap, but not the clamp — would a zip tie do?
There are very thin cable or zip ties that will fit in the groove of that cap; but I wouldn't suggest any of the standard sizes . . .
 

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