Rebuilding OmniSwivel inline shutoff valve

[mr_v]

Folks,

My OmniSwivel inline shutoff valves started to leak less than 6 months after the initial usage. The leak is very tiny. I bet most people won't even notice it. The inline shutoff valves are on my bottles that are typically charged, shutoff, and isolated - the leak is not critical. However, my OCD won't let me dive with a known problem.

First, I assume that the inline shutoff valves aren't supposed to leak at all. Is my assumption wrong? Are tiny leaks expected?

Second, does anyone know the o-ring specs for these? I identified the sizes, 011, 010, 013, and 014. It looks like they're buna 75. However, may be the original rings were too soft. I am going to try dura 90.

Finally, I presume that the standard reg procedure will follow, i.e., take apart, ultrasonic clean all the parts, put new o-rings. If you know the torque setting for the final assembly, please let me know.

Thank you!

P.S. Yes, I know DGX sells rebuilt kits, but I'd prefer not to pay $12 for a few o-rings.

 

[Cio]

“Aren’t supposed to leak at all”. I’d expect them to leak. Literally the crappiest kind of valve in existence.

that said, they are simple. Pull the orings, measure and replace. Omni asks wayyyy too much for rebuild kits

 

[mr_v]

“Aren’t supposed to leak at all”. I’d expect them to leak. Literally the crappiest kind of valve in existence.

that said, they are simple. Pull the orings, measure and replace. Omni asks wayyyy too much for rebuild kits

I rebuilt one. New rings seemed to fix the problem. I'll test it overnight to see what's up and then will proceed again. Each valve is $80. I did not expect the need to rebuild after less than 6 months of use.

 

[happy-diver]

nothing but the cheapest for me

Sonar LP Inline Regulator Long Shut-Off Valve-Scuba Doctor

The Scuba Doctor Dive Shop Sonar LP Inline Regulator Long Shut-Off Valve - The Sonar Low Pressure (LP) Inline Regulator Long Shut-Off Valve fits in-line between your low-pressure regulator hose and your second stage regulator. This valve provides positive tactile feedback when operated. As with...

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at $17 USD

 

[ahereng]

My experience is they rarely need rebuilding, but separating the "sleeve" from the "barrel" and just lubricate the barrel is usually enough. And it makes the sliding smooth again..

 

[GF99/99]

My experience is they rarely need rebuilding, but separating the "sleeve" from the "barrel" and just lubricate the barrel is usually enough. And it makes the sliding smooth again..

This is usually all I do as well and its not because it leaking just it gets a little stiff to slide.

“Aren’t supposed to leak at all”. I’d expect them to leak. Literally the crappiest kind of valve in existence.

that said, they are simple. Pull the orings, measure and replace. Omni asks wayyyy too much for rebuild kits

I actually don't think I have ever had a leaking shutoff. Surprisingly one of the only things that I have not had leak. I use the stock JJ ones (don't know if these are made in house or third party) and they work great. Never had any issued with them other then after a while the get a little sticky and need some fresh grease. My last unit probably had 4-5 hard use years on it and I may have changed the orings once just because (it never leaked). Alot of my friends us the JJ ones as well and never had any issues. The only downside to them is they are very long.

 

[Cio]

I rebuilt one. New rings seemed to fix the problem. I'll test it overnight to see what's up and then will proceed again. Each valve is $80. I did not expect the need to rebuild after less than 6 months of use.

Do you use it to sut off while flow is going or only when the gas is stopped? The weakness of these, IMO, is that the oring is the "wiper" for the valve. Orings don't generally like to go over gaps while under pressure. (No flow = no pressure differential) with flow, a differential is created while closing.

 

[mr_v]

Do you use it to sut off while flow is going or only when the gas is stopped? The weakness of these, IMO, is that the oring is the "wiper" for the valve. Orings don't generally like to go over gaps while under pressure. (No flow = no pressure differential) with flow, a differential is created while closing.

Only when the gas is stopped. Basically, on a good dive I use it only once: Shut the 2nd stage off after checks while the bottle is charged and off.

@GF99/99 - I'll take a look at the JJ valves. Thank you!

 

[grantctobin]

Only when the gas is stopped. Basically, on a good dive I use it only once: Shut the 2nd stage off after checks while the bottle is charged and off.

People have their reasons and you didn't specify which specific second stage that you're shutting off, but I'd encourage a look or ask around to see why this practice has fallen dramatically out of favor and actively discouraged by most teams.

Anecdotally, it was (is?) most commonly taught by Sotis / Sotis-taught Revo instructors.

For readers learning from this thread, it requires adding an OPV to each first stage, adding one on a BOV is batshit insane, and using them elsewhere (whether bailouts or on oxygen CMF/Solenoid lines) is...highly controversial.

 

[mr_v]

People have their reasons and you didn't specify which specific second stage that you're shutting off, but I'd encourage a look or ask around to see why this practice has fallen dramatically out of favor and actively discouraged by most teams.

Anecdotally, it was (is?) most commonly taught by Sotis / Sotis-taught Revo instructors.

For readers learning from this thread, it requires adding an OPV to each first stage, adding one on a BOV is batshit insane, and using them elsewhere (whether bailouts or on oxygen CMF/Solenoid lines) is...highly controversial.

Yeah, agree. I don't use them in the cases you've mentioned above. I am using them on stages.

I can't believe people used them on O2 lines in CC. That's just crazy.